Spare Tire Modifications (1 Viewer)

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In preparation for my Slee rear bumper without a tire carrier, I crawled under the 100 this week end to look at the current spare mount. I was looking at what it would take to get the spare higher up under the 100. There are three areas that need to be addressed.

The first area is the front rail that pushes against the tire. It is mounted to the cross member in front of the spare tire. This was simple. I unbolted it and flipped it over and bolted it back on. It didn’t really matter much though as the tire rests against the cross member now and doesn’t hit the rail. The cross member is smooth so I don’t expect it to damage the spare any more than the rail would.
Step 1 before.jpg
Step 1 after.jpg
 
The second step is to address the rear bar that the tire rests against. This was also simple. This bar just needs to be tilted upwards on its existing mounts to gain the clearance you need. (Pic 1) To do this, I took off the 4 bolts that hold it on. I then took a drill and wallowed out the top holes so the bolts had more room when the mount pivoted. (Pic 2) Then I added three washers in between the frame and the mounting flange on each of the bottom two bolts. These washers act as a shim. (Pic 3) Then add the top bolts and tighten everything down. This will pivot the bar upward almost touching the body of the 100.
Step 2 before.jpg
Step 2 after holes.jpg
Step 2 after shim.jpg
 
The last area to deal with is the cross member that holds the spare tire winch. It is held on with 2 bolts on each side. (Pic 1) Remove the 4 bolts and leave the cross member lying on the mounting bracket. Next, you must create some 1 ½ inch spacers. I used a steel half inch pipe and cut into 4 sections. I then filed down the rough edges and primed and painted them. Then I added the spacers in between the cross member and the mounting bracket. I used new 8mm x 1.25 x 60 mm hex head bolts to secure the cross member. (Pic 2)
Step 3 before.jpg
Step 3 after.jpg
 
These three modifications allowed me to raise the tire further up in the spare tire well. It moved the front of the tire up another inch and allowed the rear to go up another 1 ½ inches. Overall, I am really happy with the new height. Between the narrower size of the 255x85 spare tire and these modifications, the spare hangs down over two inches less than before. This will definitely help with clearance as I plan to keep the tire under there after the Slee bumper is fitted to the 100. Here are a couple final pics of the spare after the modifications are done.
Final Results 2.jpg
Final Results 3.jpg
 
Great write-up. I thought about doing the same thing but abandoned the idea when I couldn't find a suitable 35x9.5-16 tire. 255/85-16 is much easier to find.
 
That looks great, and simple. Nice job. May consider doing that when I get my new rear bumper on.
 
Nice job Greg! I'd be all over this mod, if I didn't plan on sticking an OEM subtank up above the spare... :cheers:
 
Hey Greg,

Very nice idea and write-up. I only have a 285/75R16 Nitto spare but I would still like to get more ground clearance since I don't and probably won't add a swingout rear tire carrier. I will be doing this soon too. Thanks for the post. :)

Re: Raising the crossmember-

1. I know that doesn't really add much strength especially compared to the already stout frame on the 100. But, I'm wary of the idea of using SS tubing for a spacer. That doesn't look very strong to me. I'd opt for a block of steel joining the two holes if possible. Like I said, I doubt it adds that much strength anyways and probably isn't a big deal.
 
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One more thing-

How does raising the tire up affect the way the tire is loaded/unloaded with the little winch and extension bar for raising/lowering it? Does it still engage without rubbing?


Thx!
 
Nice job stuffing that tire up in there...you can barely see it now from the rear !

You will love that new bumper !
 
rockclmbr said:
1. I know that doesn't really add much strength especially compared to the already stout frame on the 100. But, I'm wary of the idea of using SS tubing for a spacer. That doesn't look very strong to me. I'd opt for a block of steel joining the two holes if possible.
They've been doing a similiar mod to this on the FZJ80's for a long time. Some people have even used a stack of washers as spacers. But a block would be nicer.
 
yup, great mod, did it on my 80 many many moons ago, hadn't checked the 100 to see if it was the same, looks close enough, thanks :)

hoser said:
They've been doing a similiar mod to this on the FZJ80's for a long time. Some people have even used a stack of washers as spacers. But a block would be nicer.
 
rockclmbr said:
Hey Greg,

Very nice idea and write-up. I only have a 285/75R16 Nitto spare but I would still like to get more ground clearance since I don't and probably won't add a swingout rear tire carrier. I will be doing this soon too. Thanks for the post. :)

Re: Raising the crossmember-

1. I know that doesn't really add much strength especially compared to the already stout frame on the 100. But, I'm wary of the idea of using SS tubing for a spacer. That doesn't look very strong to me. I'd opt for a block of steel joining the two holes if possible. Like I said, I doubt it adds that much strength anyways and probably isn't a big deal.

I used a pretty heavy pipe to make the spacers. There's no way they will collapse with the amount of weight they are holding. The brackets are thinner than the spacers, if too much weight gets put on them they would probably fail before the spacers. If you're really worried about it though, you could use blocks, spacers, washers, etc. I'll post back if it ever fails.
 
rockclmbr said:
One more thing-

How does raising the tire up affect the way the tire is loaded/unloaded with the little winch and extension bar for raising/lowering it? Does it still engage without rubbing?

When you tilt the rear bar (Step 2) upwards, it will not be in the way of the winch. I can still put the crank bar through the bumper and it goes into the winch mouth just fine. If you went any higher though, you probably couldn't get the crank bar into the winch mouth through the stock bumper.
 
Nice write-up. Great idea!
 
Gregb,
with the VSC you can't use a different size spare with the 4 larger tires. Is there a contingincy plan for this?
 
FirstToy said:
Gregb,
with the VSC you can't use a different size spare with the 4 larger tires. Is there a contingincy plan for this?


All that matters for the driveline is that the rolling diameters are the same, tire width doesn't really matter (yeah yeah, different rolling resistance and all that, but I don't see that making much of a difference in this scenario). Going purely by the "+ One" formula, his stock tire (I assume on a 16" wheel) is 33.4" in diameter. The 255, because of the higher aspect ratio of 85%, comes out to 33.1" in diameter. IMHO he should be fine to run this tire with only a 0.3" difference.
 
That's pretty close then, but maybe do a test run. (Remember that one guy who had his VSC kick in during higher speed turns b/c one rr tire was worn out)

but .3" sounds inconsequential. I thought it was a larger difference
 
dclee said:
All that matters for the driveline is that the rolling diameters are the same, tire width doesn't really matter (yeah yeah, different rolling resistance and all that, but I don't see that making much of a difference in this scenario). Going purely by the "+ One" formula, his stock tire (I assume on a 16" wheel) is 33.4" in diameter. The 255, because of the higher aspect ratio of 85%, comes out to 33.1" in diameter. IMHO he should be fine to run this tire with only a 0.3" difference.

I agree with DCLEE (Hey, that kinda rhymes !) ;p

The VSC will operate normally, even if one tire is MUCH lower in pressure than the rest..as long as it is within a "reasonable" diameter of the other 3 tires (dont know how much "reasonable" actually is) but it (VSC) seems to be pretty understanding, even when your running with one tire that is almost flat
 

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