Spare Tire Carrier that bolts to Bumper

[Flank]

pics 3

pics #3

 

[dnp]

This is the best looking rear tire carrier design I've seen! (that is, for those of us who don't want to replace our rear bumpers) Please keep us updated. (I've got a lot of additional questions, but rather than asking as you're still fabricating, I'll wait until you finish........)

 

[Flank]

Ask away. Gives me something to do... I also entertain suggestions.

 

[dnp]

Ask away. Gives me something to do... I also entertain suggestions.

OK:

1. You said you added two bolts into the cross member (in addition to the 4 factory holes in the center of the rear bumper). Where did you find it necessary to add the other two? Photos?

2. Can you shoot some photos from below the bumper?

3. Where did you source your high-density plastic piece?

4. Where did you source your latch?

5. You said "will also add a locking pin for the closed position to take stress off of the latch and to allow for a security lock if I deem necessary?" What does that mean and what will it do?

6. How do you plan to position the spring pop pin and what design will you use?

As you can tell, I really like the design you've come up with, and I want to make sure I don't overlook anything. Thanks!

 

[retrofive]

Ask away. Gives me something to do... I also entertain suggestions.

When will mine be ready?

EXCELLENT job BTW.

 

[Flank]

OK:

1. You said you added two bolts into the cross member (in addition to the 4 factory holes in the center of the rear bumper). Where did you find it necessary to add the other two? Photos?

See post 35, top pic - to help old the weight of the assembly when open.

2. Can you shoot some photos from below the bumper?

How do you mean? Underneath? Clearance? Let me know what you mean.

3. Where did you source your high-density plastic piece?

...LOL... I looked at a lot of plastic companies with the UMHW (I think) plastic, until I realized it is also used to make kitchen cutting boards... so, $2 at restaurant supply store for scrap from custom cutting boards. I would have preferred black but would have cost $$ to order from plastics store.

4. Where did you source your latch?

McFadden Dale hardware in Las Vegas. The latches can also be found online from may sellers.

5. You said "will also add a locking pin for the closed position to take stress off of the latch and to allow for a security lock if I deem necessary?" What does that mean and what will it do?

The latch is pretty strong, rated for several hundred pounds, but just about every bumper manufacturer that uses this kind of latch uses one about twice the size that is rated for 1-3K lbs. I will add a bracket that can be secured by a pin or padlock (or both) that will secure the carrier closed in the event the that latch fails or accidentally flips open. The latter would be tough, as the latch us under negative pressure (takes pressure to open / close than in the locked position. But you never know what will happen on a trail or on a speed bump at high speed. This is insurance.

6. How do you plan to position the spring pop pin and what design will you use?

If you look at the 1st pic on post 41, you will see the locking pin on the spindle. That is a gravity activated pin (pull up, fall down) which will work for now. I have to fab up a tab that will raise it when the swingout is opened, then it will drop into a hole when the stop is reached. To close the swingout, you will need to pull up on the pin. Keeps sheetmetal from getting crunched, will hold it open on a hill. My existing pin may be weak, so I will most likely upgrade it.

As you can tell, I really like the design you've come up with, and I want to make sure I don't overlook anything. Thanks!

This has been a brain burner to invent, build, fit, as I don't have a lot of time, and when I get into the shop it is usually for only 1-3 hour stints. Included in this time, the shop, aka Garage, needs to be cleaned up and fit for my 1 year old and 3 year old to go into. So every time I work, I get everything out, get dirty, and then clean everything up. I don't have CAD, or any engineering experience, just a lot of welding time and an active imagination.

 

[dnp]

1. You said you added two bolts into the cross member (in addition to the 4 factory holes in the center of the rear bumper). Where did you find it necessary to add the other two? Photos?

See post 35, top pic - to help old the weight of the assembly when open. Oh, OK. You mean 2 bolts, but in the same place....gotcha

2. Can you shoot some photos from below the bumper?

How do you mean? Underneath? Clearance? Let me know what you mean.
Yeah, just some photos from below the bumper showing how the support tube looks running the length of the bumper
3. Where did you source your high-density plastic piece?

...LOL... I looked at a lot of plastic companies with the UMHW (I think) plastic, until I realized it is also used to make kitchen cutting boards... so, $2 at restaurant supply store for scrap from custom cutting boards. I would have preferred black but would have cost $$ to order from plastics store.
Good thinking!
4. Where did you source your latch?

McFadden Dale hardware in Las Vegas. The latches can also be found online from may sellers.
OK
5. You said "will also add a locking pin for the closed position to take stress off of the latch and to allow for a security lock if I deem necessary?" What does that mean and what will it do?

The latch is pretty strong, rated for several hundred pounds, but just about every bumper manufacturer that uses this kind of latch uses one about twice the size that is rated for 1-3K lbs. I will add a bracket that can be secured by a pin or padlock (or both) that will secure the carrier closed in the event the that latch fails or accidentally flips open. The latter would be tough, as the latch us under negative pressure (takes pressure to open / close than in the locked position. But you never know what will happen on a trail or on a speed bump at high speed. This is insurance. That makes sense

6. How do you plan to position the spring pop pin and what design will you use?

If you look at the 1st pic on post 41, you will see the locking pin on the spindle. That is a gravity activated pin (pull up, fall down) which will work for now. I have to fab up a tab that will raise it when the swingout is opened, then it will drop into a hole when the stop is reached. To close the swingout, you will need to pull up on the pin. Keeps sheetmetal from getting crunched, will hold it open on a hill. My existing pin may be weak, so I will most likely upgrade it. I'll have to see that. I'm not sure what you mean on that one. Have you ever thought about using the same slider/catch that's on the rear door of a Lexus GX470? When I've been thinking about this design, I noticed the rear manual door catch on my wife's GX is pretty cool. However, I don't know if it'd be appropriate in this application.......might be worth a look

As you can tell, I really like the design you've come up with, and I want to make sure I don't overlook anything. Thanks!

This has been a brain burner to invent, build, fit, as I don't have a lot of time, and when I get into the shop it is usually for only 1-3 hour stints. Included in this time, the shop, aka Garage, needs to be cleaned up and fit for my 1 year old and 3 year old to go into. So every time I work, I get everything out, get dirty, and then clean everything up. I don't have CAD, or any engineering experience, just a lot of welding time and an active imagination. So you're pretty sure you don't want to make a few more "test mules," huh?

..................................

 

[malottki]

This is great. About how much time have you put in. Can't wait to see the final piece.

 

[Flank]

This is great. About how much time have you put in. Can't wait to see the final piece.

If were to estimate my research, probably 5 or 6 hours at the computer. Shop time? including design, fab, trial and error, thinking, etc, I would say maybe 15-20 hours at this point. I could probably replicate it now in half that time.

..................................

Yeah, just some photos from below the bumper showing how the support tube looks running the length of the bumper
Check post 35 pic 1 again, before I contoured the tube. Does this answer your question?

I'll have to see that. I'm not sure what you mean on that one. Have you ever thought about using the same slider/catch that's on the rear door of a Lexus GX470? When I've been thinking about this design, I noticed the rear manual door catch on my wife's GX is pretty cool. However, I don't know if it'd be appropriate in this application.......might be worth a look
I don't know what the rear door slider of a 470 looks like. Sounds like a lot to do. Pin is much easier. A good spring lock pin is about 20 bucks. If I were to upgrade further, it would be to add a hydraulic shock to take the free swing out of the motion and assist to open on hills.

So you're pretty sure you don't want to make a few more "test mules," huh?
At the very least, this one will be for sale if I upgrade to a bumper kit like the 4x4 labs. At most, I am working on life plans to free me from the 9 to 5 for another employer and work for myself. If this happens, I will most likely be open to fabbing. Would not be until the end of the year, however.

 

[Dusty]

iv been using that same crossmember now for recovery for 6 months. it cant be broke. you will never break it. show me any peerson who has bent it.

i removed my heavy rear bumper to save weight. i never took the time to weld recovery points to the cross member so i simply wrap a treesaver around the rear crossmember and then snatch from it. i have at least 2 dozen snatches off the center of the crossmember. i have smashed the hell out of it on rocks. still holds strong-just like the rest of the truck

 

[Farr off road]

Great thread Flank!!! Look'n foward to the finished product!

 

[jvazquez53]

Very interesting project, keep us posted!

 

[peytonkristen]

Flank, This is a great project and a better alternative to the heavy and expensive rear bumpers. If you start fabbing them I would be interested in getting one. Keep up the good work!

 

[KRAZIKRAKER]

FLANK - Set up looks bad azz. Instead of building and selling them ANY chance you can write up/draw/measure and make some plans to possibly purchase and I'll have my own welder - hopefully me - put it altogether. Could make a little $$ to go camping.

Again an active imagination is a good thing looks great.

 

[Jim_Phillips]

I have been following this thread. Great work - this is what it is all about. I would also be interested in buying one of these if you decide you like making them. I had an attempt years ago at making something similar - it was never even close to this.

It can't rain much in Texas - In the UK that would be covered in surface rust by now..

 

[Flank]

Too Right. Actually, if I were still in Texas it would be pretty rusty as well, I imagine. In the extremely dry desert of Las Vegas where I am now, metal tends to stay shiny for a while.

 

[Flank]

Long overdue update!

I have basically finished the tire carrier, and only need to do a final paint job. I have not had much fab time, and had to beg, borrow, bribe, and guilt trip for time, but it is done, and meets my expectations!

I positioned the tire so that a larger one could be mounted, probably up to 35", the tire pictured is a 305-75-16 on 16x7 stock toy steel wheels with 4.5" BS.

Prior to final painting, I am considering upgrading the latch to a 2K lb. The current latch I think would do the job fust fine, but for $35 bucks seems like a no brainer, and the more hefty latch would be more comfortable to grab.

 

[Flank]

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