Spare Tire Carrier that bolts to Bumper

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You're doing exactly what I've been wanting to do! Great work, and please keep us all updated with the same degree of detailed photos you've posted so far. This is a very straightforward design that will help many of us to change to a swing-away design without (hopefully) having to take out a loan for a new "name-brand" entire rear bumper.

Two additional questions:
(1) What type (or brand) of pivot spindle are you planning to use?
(2) Do you foresee having to use any additional bracing/bracketry at the pivot end of the assembly (for additional load-bearing purposes?)

Thanks!
 
Looks great!
 
dnp said:
Two additional questions:
(1) What type (or brand) of pivot spindle are you planning to use?
(2) Do you foresee having to use any additional bracing/bracketry at the pivot end of the assembly (for additional load-bearing purposes?)

Thanks!
Click to expand...

1) I bought a spindle hinge assembly from Rockstomper. They are inexpensive at $45 and use Timkin (sp) bearings and are greaseable. They are, however, huge. 9" roughly overall length, will end up trimming the spindle end (Bottom), as it is 3 1/2" long, and I will be going through 2" square .250 tubing. Can't wait to drill THAT set of holes....

2) Yes, check the first pic of my concept drawn on the truck. On the steel part of the bumper (frame cross member) as far out as possible (right next to the plastic bumper end), I will drill another hole for mounting / weight distribution. The swingout assembly will need to be offset out from the crossmember about 1/2 inch to 3/4 or so to clear the bulge of the plastic bumper cap. So, a mounting hole with a spacer will go there. This will also serve to keep forward/ aft play down and the torsional stress off the 4 main mounting holes.
 
I'll admit, I saw this, and it was a contributing source of inspiration. My first design was actually receiver hitch mount solution. I did not go with it for a few reasons:

-I wanted the ugly Valley hitch out of there.
-It is pretty expensive at $600 or so, might as well start saving for a bumper
- It does nothing to improve ground clearance (a goal) and actually adds liability, in my opinion.
-I believe my design will be stronger, more stable, with less rattle and play.
-Looks like the cheesy Add-On accessory that it is, not an industrial part of the truck.
-AND PERHAPS MOST IMPORTANTLY:idea: - It does not give me the the fabrication time (ME time) and the satisfaction of being able to bring a design of my own to life - and thus share it with Mud members. :beer:
 
Oh, and the friggin tire on the hitchgate is about 10 or 12" away from the back of the vehicle, instead in nicely tucked up by the hatch where it should be. See also: Cheesy bolt on accessory.
 
yup, good to make it yourself and will surely end up nicer.

Btw, if somebody is interested in the hitches, some like the DrawTite have the 2" box even with the mount, not hanging down, so you don't lose the 2" clearance. From memory, the 2" tube on my DrawTite is just about the same location as yours. Same with my Kaymar bumper pretty much. Basically right under the crossmember.
 
I want to make sure this thread doesn't die.......anything new in the last few days? Also, if your design works out like we all hope it will, will you be fabricating any of these for sale? I like this overall design best, because (1) it's simpler, (2) it allows the use of the factory rear mudflaps without a lot of hassle, and (3) retaining the factory bumper ends keeps the exhaust resonator concealed...........plus, I'm HOPING it'll end up being a lot less expensive than most!
 
I'm a bit of a single minded fanatic sometimes, I will see this project through. I will probably not get fab time for another week or two.

Ill not be making them for sale, however. i barely have time to make my own, what with a 100% commission sales job and and two children, 3 and 1.

Seriously now, I was measuring for the swingout today. I am wrestling with the idea that I want to make the swingout detachable from the hitch as well... Bolting onto the hitch plate and the extra point on the bumper. The idea is that in town, no carrier; out of town, carrier.

We'll see.
 
I like your energy and willingness to be innovative, but something was bothering me about your design and it came to me as i was looking at the photo which you doctored up in post #4 over the top of the Drawtite type hitch. You are going to be relying on the rear cross member (I know it was designed to accommodate a tow hitch) and your "primary assembly" to support both a receiver and a swingout type spare tire carrier. To me, just gut feeling, it seems like the cross member or your "primary assembly" are going to be over stressed to do both jobs, especially if you've got a trailer in tow that is close to the maximum rating. I don't want to be a "wet blanket", but if you have any friends at a welding or machine shop, you might get a second opinion. The last thing you want on a trip is to have a structural failure.
 
Truth is, I totally agree with you, if I was towing all the time, or heavy loads, which I'm not. I have a M101 military utility trailer that is light and tows very easily for sporadic jobs, but if I do any heavy towing, I use my Tahoe with the V8. :meh:

I incorporated a hitch into the design because I feel naked without one. Occasional towing of the M101 or the ability to put my hitch mount bike rack was my goal for that. Also, if needed, I believe the Valley hitch would simply fit back under the assembly, but I have not tested it.

But just to show I'm not totally daft, I have also been mentally fabbing a frame mount bolt on reinforcement underneath. Right in in front of the rear crossmember, there is a reinforcing bar that is about 5/8" or so diameter, mounted by 4 bolts. I was considering attaching a bracing bracket from those mounts to the front (underside) of the hitch receiver tube. Some of you may have seen how CDAN reinforced his hitch he fabbed on his Slee bumper - same concept. Again, the idea is that this is all bolt up, and completely removable. This would probably be stage III after the swingout is done.:beer:
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Just so you know, that spare on the end of that swing arm has a tremendous leverage with the weight it has. If I'm parked on even a slight side hill and I let the swing arm go by mistake, when it hits the stop, it really shakes my 80. My Kaymar's pretty beefy and can handle it. So take that in to consideration with yours. :cheers:
 
This cues me into the idea I have to weld in a mechanical stop for the hinge to not extend past, say, 100 degrees from locked to keep this thing from swinging around into the side of the truck and damaging the sheet metal. Considering in step 2.5 of the build, adding a gas shock for control of the weight. (After swingout, before reinforcement underneath. Thanks for jogging my brain on this. Would be a very sour lesson to learn with the crunch of sheet metal...
 
Whatever happened with this project? This was the best design I had seen so far, but there's been a big lapse of time since the last update. Did you ever finish it? Do you have any photos? Please let us in on what's happened with this project. Thanks!
 
The project is not dead, it is in a slumber, however... Continental and international travel, coupled with two kids under 4 years old have not left me time for shop work.

Since my last update, I have fabbed the base bar that bolts to the bumper, pics below. But I need to angle it in a tad after the bump on the tupperware to match the contour of the bumper (cut and bend to keep a 5/8" or so clearance the whole way.

With the bar bolted in, I stood on it and bounced with my 240 lbs and it did not budge, so seems very strong. The spindle that I have is a 1.25 dia with conical bearings.
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As it has been from the beginning, that's a great looking, simple, straightforward setup. Mainly, I like the fact that it doesn't require the utilization of an entirely new $$$ rear bumper. Certainly, those applications have their place, but for non-hardcore off-roaders like me, just getting the spare tire from underneath is a HUGE improvement.

Just curious, did you source your spindle from someone or did you make it?

Thanks, and, again, it looks great!
 
Thought I had responded days ago on this, sorry. I bought the spindle for $45 from Rockstomper.com. it was actually much larger than I thought from the pics, like 11" long over all. I will end up cutting about 2" from the bottom so it does not stick down too much.
 
Progress Update: Swingout finished.

I've been busy, got some time the last couple of weekends to continue engineering / construction, and the swingout portion is basically done. The welds are not yet sanded flush, machanical stop pin is in, but the stop itself is not yet in.

I was not happy with how the support bar hung out away from the bumper so far at the end, so I cut , bent and welded a contour to it. Very pleased with the results.

I also did not want the swingarm to hang out too far while stowed, would look too "add on" or "Bolt On", much too like the hitch mount models that I investigated and that inspired me to do this in the first place.
Soooo, the swingarm (is this one word or two. I'll go with one) got cut and bent as well. It now sits will onboard the bumper, giving a nice tight fit, similar to a Kaymar.

The 1/2" bar that attaches the swingarm to the latch (near center) holds the weight of the swingarm / tire when latched, so there is no actual contact with the bumper at all except the 4 bolt mounting points outlined previously. This bar acts as the mechanical closing stop, so back hatch cannot be harmed, and rests on high density plastic piece. So, with this entire project, I am only using two drilled holes in the rear crossmember (in addition to the 4 stock holes.

I sat my 240 pound butt on the extended swingarm yesterday straight back and fully out, and it was very solid, more than enough for a 100+ lbs of tires and gear. The assembly latches and holds very tight wihout rattles.

In this project, I will probably upgrade the latch to a heavier on and replace my home made pin mechanism with a spring pop pin. Everything else is strong as hell. Will also add a locking pin for the closed postion to take stress off of the latch and to allow for a security lock if I deem necessary.

Left to do:
-build tire portion
-Complete mechanical opening stop / lock for open position
-Fab locking pin for closed position
-Clean up existing welds
-fab up High Jack carrier to snug behind tire at angle.
-Build / buy license plate relocation bracket.

Pics below
 
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