Builds South Texas 97 - New to me

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just hit 350k miles. Nice. Uses about 1/2 a quart of oil every 1000 miles, but other than that runs great.
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Drivers side window would occasionally not go back up after opening the window, so decided to clean the switch On the drivers side door.
Easy to remove leverage up at the front, and then unplug the connector. Little bit of crusties, but not bad. Cleaned up with some vinegar and q tips.
flipped it over and removed the three screws holding on the cover. And then removed the white plastic cover on the bottom.
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there are four screws holding the circuit board to the switches. Very carefully remove the screws and carefully remove the circuit board.
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then you can see the contactors and two springs. Best to work on a clean surface so things don’t get lost in the mess.
the contactors are not fixed, they just sit in their little seats. Remove one by one and clean with sandpaper or nail file.


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note the window lock switch is a push button with a small spring to latch on, latch off.
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the first time I put this back together the black spring had sprung out, so the latch would not lock. The key is to remove the top of the button from the switch itself first.
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after that, simply reinstall everything and enjoy the almost new switch for about an hour of your time.
 
I've seen the same issue just rather it was extremely slow to go backup especially in cold weather. Probably more of a track issue then contactor for me but good to know you can get these back to like new condition. Nice job!
 
Two weeks back drove up to Dallas to Cool Cruisers of Texas and picked up a set of HFS springs and shackles. I thought it only fitting to take the 97 Series 80, and on the way back rolled over 365,000 miles. Very satisfying, now I need to do an oil change!

This weekend installed the springs and new shackles.
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The frame mount with new bushings are quite tight, so I have found a thin metal drywall tool allows to get one side in while the other side just squeezed in.
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It helped to leave on of the shackle bolts only 1/2 way installed to let the spring twist a bit to get the frame side bolt installed. I. Struggled with the first three, but the last one was just pushed in by hand.
Took it for a quick shakedown drive to settle everything in.
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Front and back look great.
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Back view
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Two weeks back drove up to Dallas to Cool Cruisers of Texas and picked up a set of HFS springs and shackles. I thought it only fitting to take the 97 Series 80, and on the way back rolled over 365,000 miles. Very satisfying, now I need to do an oil change!

This weekend installed the springs and new shackles.View attachment 3867466
The frame mount with new bushings are quite tight, so I have found a thin metal drywall tool allows to get one side in while the other side just squeezed in.View attachment 3867467
It helped to leave on of the shackle bolts only 1/2 way installed to let the spring twist a bit to get the frame side bolt installed. I. Struggled with the first three, but the last one was just pushed in by hand.
Took it for a quick shakedown drive to settle everything in.
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Front and back look great.
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Back view
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The front doesn't look great if that's the settled angle of the shackles. Hopefully the jack is taking weight there and the shackles go the other direction when completely laden with truck weight. I'm also along for your updates. Soft topping it to AK in a 40! :)
 
The front doesn't look great if that's the settled angle of the shackles. Hopefully the jack is taking weight there and the shackles go the other direction when completely laden with truck weight. I'm also along for your updates. Soft topping it to AK in a 40! :)
Looks like he was in the middle of the install, the u-bolts aren't torqued and the axle is raised
 
I left sugarland under some heavy rain most of the way to Abilene.

Sugarland

Abilene

Albuquerque

Via Moab

Green river

Salt Lake City LandCruiser Museum

Insert obligatory picture of FJ40 in front of museum.
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@cruiserdan suggested I get and iron butt award just driving up from Texas. I feel that to really earn that award, Deadhorse is a good target.

Ogden

Salmon Idaho

Couer d'Alene

Hwy 41

Newport

Hwy20

Cusick

Hwy 20

Colville

Hwy 395

Boulder Creek Road

Curlew

Kettle river road

Chesaw Road

Oroville

Hwy 97 to the Canadian border.



Most of the time doing 50-55 and keeping out of everyone’s way.

Lots of stops for gas, have been getting around 12 mpg. The FJ40 has a Holley Sniper , and the truck feels like it’s missing intermittently. A stumble or stutter, especially under load. I had a spare distributor cap and rotor, so replace that and it seemed to get better for a while, makes me wonder about the spark plug leads. Which I do not have spares for.

It seems this is a common complaint about the sniper. Kicking myself I did not dig into this more before I left. Will do some more research and decide how to fix it when I get back.

Could be a timing issue, an advance issue (vacuum advance in the distributor not working correctly). As it seems to be hesitation and under load, I am leaning in that direction.



Thoughts from the experts are appreciated





YouTube video of driving

And if you look at my channel name will see some other videos where I am testing out my Insta360X4 camera.



As I drive up through BC and YT, and of course in Alaska itself, fuel management will be very important. Coming over from today from Cusick to Oroville, it took 12.4 gallons for 135 miles of hilly country just over 11 mpg. This sucks, but it is what it is for now.

I picked up 3x5 gallon gas containers, but have not filled them yet. So if I assume 10 mpg, that would need 25 gallons for 250 miles, the distance from Fairbanks to coldfoot, and coldfoot to Deadhorse. So we should be good.

With the sniper I can see water temperature and MAF air temp. It only hit 190 going into Albuquerque, and near Farmington, in late morning. Rest of the time it stays around 180-182, and is not using any coolant. So that is good news. Oil pressure gauge is both the Toyota as well as a copper tube mechanical gauge which shows at 50mph around 70psi, which on the Toyota gauge is inside of the range of the gauge. At idle it drops to around 50, and to the low end of the range on the gauge. The sniper also gives me voltage so I can tell the fan belt is working and driving the water pump and alternator give me a solid 14.5 at 50mph.



The last thing I monitor is the amps, with the sniper, the Toyota amp meter is often pegged, or at least over 30 amps. Needless to say this was quite worrying, so I installed a cheap toroidal sensor, and it shows most of the time the sniper is pulling around 14-16 amps. Although when cold, it’s close to 30. I assume this is heating up the AFR sensor.



Lots of comments from folks at the motels and gas stations along the way. Folks telling me their grandpa had one on the ranch way back when. And of course a couple of “nice Jeep!” , sometimes I correct it, sometimes just say thanks.



Canadian immigration was straightforward. I bought my passport, title to the FJ40, insurance papers, drivers license, and all he wanted was the passport, and some questions about firearms, bear or pepper spray, none of which I have with me, and how long was I going to be in Canada.



More as we go along.

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Not surehow to "follow" but I'll look for updates. Once you make it up here (Alaska) keep me in mind if you have trouble or need anything. Valdez is a cool little city, a little out of the way, but worth checking out if you have time.
Good luck, have fun and take your time. Wish I had spent more time in Northern BC and the Yukon Territory when I drove up.
 
Hit me up if you're still in the Bitterroot, I'm in Hamilton all day.
 
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Osoyoo BC to

Merritt BC via the Similkameen Valley, amazing orchards, wineries and it looks like fishing as well.

Took the advice and started filling up with gas at every opportunity.

Heading out of Merritt noticed my voltage was stuck at 12.5. So pulled over to check my fan belt, which has honestly been loose for a while now. To adjust it had to move the battery tray back a bit, as the alternator was hard up against the battery. Got that done, but when I started the truck a terrible squealing sound. But it was charging at 14.5. Figured the bearings or something, so decided to return to Merritt and find a mechanic. Shawn at DCS automotive was very helpful, and had me start the truck while he observed the alternator. Turns out the strut holding the tension on the alternator was touching the metal fan on the alternator. The shaft of the bolt was too narrow and when I cinched it tight, it was on the low side. So scraping the fan. Fixed that, Shawn would not take any payment, and sent me on my way.
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Beautiful drive along high valley road, and then a very steep descent into Cache creek.

From there some heavy rain which cleared by the time we got to Williams lake. Excellent roads all the way.


Next video


Last one for the day
Yet another boring video of the 1976 FJ40 - https://youtu.be/bT0XUUNum9I?si=RLcNHR2Dx2gJ4IJQ&utm_source=MTQxZ

Next few days will be interesting, traveling along the Cassiar highway. Few gas stops and now cell signals. My 3 x 5 gal gas cans will be used in anger for the first time.

Next stop is Houston BC, followed by deary lake, and upper Liard/ Watson in the YT.
 
Today Williams Lake to Houston BC via prince George.324 miles

Before I left the hotel pulled the plugs one by one to see if something was obvious, and found plug for cylinder 3 was quite carboned up. Used a pocket knife to clean it up as best I could, and put them all back in. It seemed to run better initially, although I guess this could indicate a valve gap not set correctly, the plug going bad, or the plug lead is an issue.
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Other plugs were much better/“normal” for example plug 1
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Comments welcome on this. Not sure if I can find plug leads this far north.



The rest of the day to motor did not stumble, but on deceleration it would often backfire on me. I believe that is a sign of too much gas?



No photos today, as the trans Canada highway is just not that exciting.



Tomorrow along the Cassiar Hwy, Hwy 37 will be much more photogenic, and will have more videos.


Stewart-Cassiar Highway (Highway 37) | Super, Natural BC



Will be stopping at Dease Lake for the night around 300 miles.
 
It was actually 411 miles from Houston BC to Dease Lake along Hwy 37. Gas stations are sparse but well indicated, of course everything is in Kms, so some mental math is needed. 80km is 50mph.
Road is pretty good the whole way.
This is what I came for, mountains all around. I took some videos, but there is not a good WiFi here to upload, so will do that tomorrow from my next stop, Watson Lake on the Alaska Hwy.

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I still have the annoying miss and backfires, so will change the plugs tomorrow before I leave , and ordered some non OEM plug leads from an O’rilleys in Anchorage, they should be there by the time I arrive there in a few more days.
 
As mentioned at the top of the page, the steering box had a leak. the PO had replaced both the low pressure and high pressure hoses, but the issue was the seals. I read through the FSM on rebuilding the box, and I did not have all the tools, so decided to have it rebuilt by a shop. Reading through the forums, it seemed that ADCO in Houston did a good job, so took it off and over to them for a complete rebuild. 375USD + Tax and four days later went over and picked it up.
used a punch to put some index marks on both the steering wheel shaft input to the box, and on the pitman arm and box, although I could not get the pitman arm off, so left it on. It was easier to pop off the ball joint.

Took the opportunity for more cleaning.....
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Followed the FSM to refill and bleed the Power steering pump. Used the same ATF as the Transmission, this way only have to carry one bottle for emergencies.
Front wheels off the ground, engine off, slowly turn lock to lock several times, check fluid level.
Start engine and repeat checking fluid level and no bubbles/frothing.

Go for a short drive and check again.

All good.
Sorry for the long distance recall, but once you had the steering box rebuilt, did you notice any decrease in steering wheel play. I’m down to replacing the box at this point. It doesn’t leak but I’ve used all the adjustment and still have slop.
 
No problem, yes the steering improved. You mentioned you had replaced all the tie rod ends? They can be hard to check with the wheels on the ground
 
No problem, yes the steering improved. You mentioned you had replaced all the tie rod ends? They can be hard to check with the wheels on the ground
So far I’ve replaced the TREs, added Delta Radius Arms and replaced the rubber steering coupler. I’ve made a 3/4 turn of the adjustment screw, and it’s at full stop. Only untouched item is the box. It’s bone dry so I’ve had no reason tk mess with it. My rig is almost 96% full restoration and running 33” on a 2.5” OME. No wheeling- Daily Driver. Tandem Off-road near me said they could rebuild for about $400. I was shopping online last night for an OEM @ $1800. Researching the Redheads(?) now.


Edit. Photos
 

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