What are you going to do when the N74XXL's come out?
They won't work with 35's and a Slee Bumper. Any more travel and the bumper will stop the tire cold. Thought you had me, huh?
Source for extended rear brake lines?
- Thread starter sonk76
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They won't work with 35's and a Slee Bumper. Any more travel and the bumper will stop the tire cold. Thought you had me, huh?
Still circles.
There is no more chance of leaks by adding a new longer line then bending and adding extension brackets. In fact you will add more stress to a pressurized line by bending it to "stretch" were you need it to go. You are stressing a vital system.... your breaks! Pretty stupid. Period. Why are you doing this???? Oh yeah... you needed longer break lines.... maybe it has worked for you. But it is pretty irresponsible to recommend to others.
hoser
SILVER Star
Well, IMO, it really is no big deal to bend hard lines (though usually they don't leave them out in the open like that). And it is also no big deal to swap a brake line and bleed the brakes. My point was the brake line needs to be addressed, that's all.
I hear you.
If I hadn't seen so many lines that were bent as intended from the factory develop hairline cracks from stress and vibration, I might not think so either. And on a different system I might be more willing to take a chance. Seeing we are talking about the brakes, my experience tells me that adding more bends to make something "stretch" to fit is a bad idea. It has more to do with the attempt to stretch something than an intentionally designed system. And yes I agree that the brake lines need to be addressed. Either take the chance and bend them to stretch like John did or extend them properly and safely.
At this point I couldn't resist, sorry. Nothing personal, just for fun...
In your own words, yours is a mod as well.
Yours has been 'touched' as well.
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You guys make me laugh!
Funny looking for sure!
- Thread starter
- #29
Clarification on line extension
With the trucks that have ATRAC/VSC and thus two lines extending from the frame to the rear axle, do BOTH of these lines need to be extended (or relocate fixed lines)?
See picture below.
I can see that line #1 would clearly need to be addressed, but it was not as clear to me whether or not line #2 would require similar treatment given the geometry involved. Any thoughts?
With the trucks that have ATRAC/VSC and thus two lines extending from the frame to the rear axle, do BOTH of these lines need to be extended (or relocate fixed lines)?
See picture below.
I can see that line #1 would clearly need to be addressed, but it was not as clear to me whether or not line #2 would require similar treatment given the geometry involved. Any thoughts?
if you're extending/replacing the lines on all the wheels too with steel braided, you should consider that five steel lines might make more pressure or otherwise stress the last rubber line beyond its design parameters... i had lines made for both rr axle lines, works beautifully 
- Thread starter
- #31
if you're extending/replacing the lines on all the wheels too with steel braided, you should consider that five steel lines might make more pressure or otherwise stress the last rubber line beyond its design parameters... i had lines made for both rr axle lines, works beautifully
That's the ultimate plan...
For now, I have line #1 extended, but I don't yet have the stainless lines for #2 and/or other places in order to replace them. I'm trying to figure out whether or not I can proceed with extending droop on my rear axle with where I am now, or if I need to wait until I get line #2 taken care of.
I second Spressomon's recommendation of the GJ shop....really did save the entire trip for him after some serious fun in the Maze. 
I'll also recommend PECO in ABQ. They do whatever custom line that you want using metric/Toyota fittings.
I'll also recommend PECO in ABQ. They do whatever custom line that you want using metric/Toyota fittings.
The dealio about SS braided lines: If you or the fab shop don't (and most don't do this BTW) install heavy duty shrink tube to cover the metal swaged fitting to the SS hose portion you'll accumulate dirt/grit that will wear the outer SS sheath covering in relatively short order.
So take some double thick adhesive type shrink wrap with you to the fab shop and have them install it before they swage the ends on...that's the best way (you'll probably have to do the heat part of the process...just be sure not to overheat the brake line). Or you can use, after they are already fabbed, a larger ID shrink tube to get over the swaged end but its better to use the smaller ID and have them install before they swage.
And you only need about 3" of shrink per end per hose.
So take some double thick adhesive type shrink wrap with you to the fab shop and have them install it before they swage the ends on...that's the best way (you'll probably have to do the heat part of the process...just be sure not to overheat the brake line). Or you can use, after they are already fabbed, a larger ID shrink tube to get over the swaged end but its better to use the smaller ID and have them install before they swage.
And you only need about 3" of shrink per end per hose.
I was looking at some SS lines on a truck the other day, the whole thing was coated with a clear rubber tube, including the connections.
What is the lowdown on covering SS lines? I have seen an article that say lines with plastic sheath hold water & road salts and line will fail sooner than non sheath SS lines. The sheath seems like a good idea to keep krud out. Anyone have real data one way or the other?
What Spresso says makes a lot of sense, there is a pocket in those fittings where hose goes in, that could hold dirt and wear the hose.
What Spresso says makes a lot of sense, there is a pocket in those fittings where hose goes in, that could hold dirt and wear the hose.
Sorry to bump an old thread, did feel like my question was worth a new thread.
I plan on adding 2" of additional travel over the L shocks. Besides spring retainers and brake lines, what else needs to be extended? Should I get brake lines that are 4" longer than OEM or 6" longer? Does a longer brake line effect brake pedal feel? Any adverse effects of extending a brake line that far?
I plan on adding 2" of additional travel over the L shocks. Besides spring retainers and brake lines, what else needs to be extended? Should I get brake lines that are 4" longer than OEM or 6" longer? Does a longer brake line effect brake pedal feel? Any adverse effects of extending a brake line that far?
Why would you want so much unbalance between the front and rear? Also, what are your plans for keeping the tires from jamming against the wheel wells. You really can't lift any more so all of this extra travel will be flex. As far as I know, the recommended next step for what you are attempting is a body lift and modded/aftermarket bump stops.
In keeping with the thread, breather clamp-down points should be adjusted to cope with the added flex.
In keeping with the thread, breather clamp-down points should be adjusted to cope with the added flex.
Since the front is hopeless on the 100 (in terms of adding travel), I have focused my attention on the rear. I want to see what can be done in the rear end in terms of maxing out the suspension on a 100. The bump stops will be dropped .5" to eliminate rubbing in the wheel wells at full compression. I'm curious to see how much travel you can squeeze out of a 100.
Having the most droop you can get out back does help in crawling situations. I've often compared my buddies 4-runner to my Tacoma, both have an identical IFS front end (interchangeable parts mostly) but the taco has a leaf rear and the runner has a link and coil rear.... trust me the added travel of the link/coil rear often puts my Tacoma to shame. The links just drop the axle until traction is found and articulates so much more freely than the short leaf system.
Also, if your rear gets working too well you'll just have to SAS the front! I expect we are going to see a lot more SAS 100's in the next 5 years as the prices keep dropping and they become 2nd vehicles or trail vehicles....
The more the better, bring it on!
Also, if your rear gets working too well you'll just have to SAS the front! I expect we are going to see a lot more SAS 100's in the next 5 years as the prices keep dropping and they become 2nd vehicles or trail vehicles....
The more the better, bring it on!
