Soundproofing

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

pistonpete

pistonpete

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Threads
19
Messages
1,424
Location
Edmundston, New Brunswick, Canada
Hello Fellow mudders, i find myself at the step where some soundproofing is the next step for my build and i was wondering what would be best for roof,floor, etc..
I know of Dynamat but its on the high side in price but effective. Is there anything close or better to use.

Thanks
 
pistonpete said:
Hello Fellow mudders, i find myself at the step where some soundproofing is the next step for my build and i was wondering what would be best for roof,floor, etc..
I know of Dynamat but its on the high side in price but effective. Is there anything close or better to use.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Pretty cool thing I did a couple years back was go to Lowes and buy some anti-fatigue mat. Its 3 foot wide and something like 5 dollars per linear foot. Its super heavy, super cheap, is quite durable since its made to be walked on. If you dont like it your out like $50 but I had it in my turned up 1990 cummins and it made a huge difference.
 
If you look around, especially in Kevin Morelands vendor spot, there is lots of solutions from the super cheap Heating/AC flashing tape type stick n peal to the expensive, spray on SecondSkin stuff. SecondSkin is a vendor on the forums so I am sure he would be happy to answer any questions but their product is not cheap (think Dynamat+some extra) but from what I have heard it is quite superior to most. There is also stuff like FatMat, CruiserCrap, and the like. When I do mine, which will probably be next year, I will end up going with the FatMat more than likely.
 
gregnash said:
If you look around, especially in Kevin Morelands vendor spot, there is lots of solutions from the super cheap Heating/AC flashing tape type stick n peal to the expensive, spray on SecondSkin stuff. SecondSkin is a vendor on the forums so I am sure he would be happy to answer any questions but their product is not cheap (think Dynamat+some extra) but from what I have heard it is quite superior to most. There is also stuff like FatMat, Cruiser****, and the like. When I do mine, which will probably be next year, I will end up going with the FatMat more than likely.
Click to expand...

Going out on a limb... I think the sound deadener industry has caught up to Secondskin et al. in terms of product design and quality. Some of the new products I've seen are just as impressive at a fraction of the cost.

Not knocking secondskin... still nice products, just everyone else is playing hardball in this market.
 
Machinist on here has used CruiserCrap and i listened to it first hand, its quite impressive and cheap. search around for his thread here and you cna see install
 
i used bitument based sticky flashing stuff from my local hardware store.. it looks and feels exactly like dynamat and works a treat.

I have had it in my cruiser for 3 years now, it sticks like s*** to a blanket and does not smell or emit odours like people say it does and my car is parked in 40+ celsius heat for days at a time in summer. its a quarter of the price so you can use alot more for the same money and have a quieter rig.
 
I used cruisercrap and like the results a lot.

IMG_0652.webp
 
I'm in the process of putting cruiser crap everywhere and McMaster foam sound deadener over the floor before carpet. Just waiting to do the front floor now. Love it
 
I would not reccomend using my product, or any of the normal sound deadners on the roof of your truck. Due to the weight of these products... you just can't get past gravity! :D

The point of any sound deadner product is to stop the vibrations of the metal pannel. They do other things too, keep out heat, etc...

What I would do is coat the roof with a sludge type product. Even a bed liner will help. Then, put back up your headliner, and the headliner should will have some sound insulation material in it. This combonation will go a long way in keeping the noise out.

Another tip is to coat the inside of your wheel wells with a rubbery product. Iam planning on using a 3M prodcut on my FJ40 project. (i'll get the name and post it up here)

Wheels/Tires thow off sound waves that travel into your wheelwells, so some type of product to adsorb and break up those waves helps a bunch.

Sound deading is not rocket science, but it is science. All the products out there do a great job, just pick one you like, and that fits your budget.

GOODLUCK! - Mark

pistonpete said:
Thanks guys for the info.. What would be best for the roof panel, or can u install maybe a thicker stuff over that ?????

Pp
Click to expand...
 
Cruisercrap everywhere but up top. Lizardskin or similar spray-on product on the roof interior.
 
CruiserCrap is good stuff, really made a noticeable difference in the sound level in the truck. I recommend getting a tennis ball and using it to put the pressure on the mat to get all the air bubbles out and get it stuck on there really good. A razor blade or a knife is also going to be needed for trimming and releasing air from the bubbles you cant push out. Also try to clean the panels really good and use some sort of degreaser for optimal adhesion.

Go to the link in my sig line, and somewhere among the plethora of pages is the page with the QuietCrap install.
 
Thanks guys.

I got a box at the local stereo shop to do the dash so i can continue my work BUT i will be gettin me some of that CRUISERCRAP for the doors and rear for sure, besides i'm gonna need those cool bottle openers for my rig !!! :hillbilly:
 
I'm in the middle of sound proofing my entire FJ60. If I just drove it weekends only or short distances around town or mainly on trails I wouldn't bother, but it's going to be a daily driver and I'll do a lot of long-distance highway travel and that just gets tiring in a loud vehicle.

Supplies = FatMat 100sq ft roll, McMaster 1/2" & 1" acoustic self adhesive foam mat, box of razor blades, can of generic spray brake cleaner, warm weather, and a ton of time.

Rear cargo floor:
- single-layer Fat mat with complete coverage on bare metal floor
- double-layer of FatMat on the wheel wells
- 1" thick acoustic McMaster foam

Rear cargo area trim panels & area behind trim panel:
- double layer of FatMat on the wheel wells
- single-layer FatMat coverage on interior side of rear quarter panel
- 1/2" McMaster foam mat on backside of trim panel

2nd row floor:
- single-layer FatMat coverage applied to bare floor
- 1" McMaster foam mat

Front seat area:
- single-layer FatMat on floors (right over factory sound proofing), under seats, and as far up firewall as possible
- double-layer FatMat on transmission tunnel & under console (double-layer to block heat transfer)
- 1/2" thick McMaster foam mat on tranmission tunnel top and sides
- 1" thick McMaster foam on front floor (area where the floormat goes)
- no FatMat or McMaster foam in side drainage channels

All 4 Doors:
- single-layer FatMat strips on inside of exterior door skin
- single-layer Fat mat coverage behind door panel
- 1/2" thick McMaster foam coverage on backside of door panel

Exterior wheel wells:
- 3M sprayable, rubberized undercoating

All jute felt removed from under carpets.
 
The foam would be great at long as you can make absolutely sure that there are ZERO leaks from any windows, pillars, or the windshield.

Also keep in mind that the purpose of the sound deadening material on sheet metal is to prevent it from transmitting sound by dampening vibrations. You could do half coverage via 3" wide strips with 3" between them and get the same results as full coverage. Going full coverage will add a buttload of weight and cost a lot more money than you need to spend.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Spook. Aren't you the guy here that "found" the McMaster acoustic foam?

Did a lot of research about full vs part Dyna/Fat mat coverage with mixed opinions...

...end of day, a few extra pounds won't make much difference on a 60 series.

Apparently my 100 series spoiled me. When I need a dose of reality, my totally UNinsulated FJ40 provides it. :P
 
LakeNorman_FJ40 said:
Thanks Spook. Aren't you the guy here that "found" the McMaster acoustic foam?
Click to expand...

That wasn't me. A while back I used Lytherm carpet padding, but it started growing mold when my A pillars started leaking bad.

Did a lot of research about full vs part Dyna/Fat mat coverage with mixed opinions...

...end of day, a few extra pounds won't make much difference on a 60 series.
Click to expand...

Can't argue that. If you've got the stuff it won't hurt you to use it. If you haven't gotten it yet you could still save a few bucks :D
 
I have the McMaster stuff. I did the 1 inch in the cargo area and its pretty thick so the rest of the cruiser I'm going to use the 12 inch stuff. It works well and is very sticky.

Carter
 
I might have to use that to redo floor padding in my truck after I finish the rust repair and can verify that ALL leaks are sealed. Leaking is what ruined the Lytherm that I paid several hundred bucks for 12 years ago :mad: :bang:

Is it P/N 54495T46 you guys are using for the 1/2"?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom