Soundproofing

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Rear cargo floor:
- single-layer Fat mat with complete coverage on bare metal floor
- double-layer of FatMat on the wheel wells
- 1" thick acoustic McMaster foam


2nd row floor:
- single-layer FatMat coverage applied to bare floor
- 1" McMaster foam mat

Front seat area:
- single-layer FatMat on floors (right over factory sound proofing), under seats, and as far up firewall as possible
- double-layer FatMat on transmission tunnel & under console (double-layer to block heat transfer)
- 1/2" thick McMaster foam mat on tranmission tunnel top and sides
- 1" thick McMaster foam on front floor (area where the floormat goes)
- no FatMat or McMaster foam in side drainage channels

How many feet approximately of the McMaster foam did you use for the Rear Cargo FLoor, 2nd Row Floor and Front Seat Area?

Cheers
 
4 feet for rear cargo area fit just about perfect. I ordered another 8 ft for the rest of my 60, not sure if ill need it all yet or not.
 
I know this is an old thread but some of us weren't there when you started. :) My concern is that anything I put down that has to adhere will possibly trap humidity and make things susceptible to rust. Are any of the products you've mentioned ones that dont' require gluing in some way? Sounds like cruiserbrandon's antifatigue mat might be the only one. The rest of you aren't concerned about trapping humidity?
 
I know this is an old thread but some of us weren't there when you started. :) My concern is that anything I put down that has to adhere will possibly trap humidity and make things susceptible to rust. Are any of the products you've mentioned ones that dont' require gluing in some way? Sounds like cruiserbrandon's antifatigue mat might be the only one. The rest of you aren't concerned about trapping humidity?

I got a roll of a foil backed but non adhesive 1/4" sound deadener about 5 years ago. I cant' remember what kind, it was bottom
of the price range. I can only recommend, since I live in a rain forest on the west coast, that do your due diligence and make sure
you have gone over any potential rust areas on the floor and side inner panels with a coat of primer and paint. I pull mine up every
couple of years and have to get in there and clean it up.
Someone suggested you can run strips instead of complete coverage, that would go a long way in allowing the under coatings
to dry. Sometimes I put heater and fans in my truck in winter if I've been walking with the dogs in the forest, no way to really
get a deep down drying otherwise.
 
I got a roll of a foil backed but non adhesive 1/4" sound deadener about 5 years ago. I cant' remember what kind, it was bottom
of the price range. I can only recommend, since I live in a rain forest on the west coast, that do your due diligence and make sure
you have gone over any potential rust areas on the floor and side inner panels with a coat of primer and paint. I pull mine up every
couple of years and have to get in there and clean it up.
Someone suggested you can run strips instead of complete coverage, that would go a long way in allowing the under coatings
to dry. Sometimes I put heater and fans in my truck in winter if I've been walking with the dogs in the forest, no way to really
get a deep down drying otherwise.

Thanks for the info. Did you put a mat over the top of it to keep it in place and conform to the contours?
 
I just put the old carpet back over it. I also covered that with the SOR diamond plate pattern rubber floor
covering. It keeps it clean and grime/grease free but it isn't nice to kneel on. Dogs don't like it.
It is quiet back there. I only have factory headliner
 
I just put the old carpet back over it. I also covered that with the SOR diamond plate pattern rubber floor
covering. It keeps it clean and grime/grease free but it isn't nice to kneel on. Dogs don't like it.
It is quiet back there. I only have factory headliner
Did you do anything to the cabin for sound deadening?
 
LOTS of sound will come through even a tiny opening... so be sure to seal up any doors or windows with effective weatherstrip - replacing any that is damaged or missing. Don't overlook the tailgate and hatch seals. Wagon gear sells (sold?) a weatherstrip for the 60 doors that added a second layer of seal.
 
LOTS of sound will come through even a tiny opening... so be sure to seal up any doors or windows with effective weatherstrip - replacing any that is damaged or missing. Don't overlook the tailgate and hatch seals. Wagon gear sells (sold?) a weatherstrip for the 60 doors that added a second layer of seal.
I think.... @reevesci has the door and window seals from Wagon Gear now.
 
I don't get the need for all this extra sound deadning stuff..........a 60 is not really a loud truck, even on MT's. most of the road noise I hear is from the rear inner wheel wheels. I can't see any reason to add this stuff........but then again I also drive old 45's and 40's.......so I guess its relative.
 
Has anyone just treated the wheel wells first, then the rest (or vise versa)?
I don't get the need for all this extra sound deadning stuff..........a 60 is not really a loud truck, even on MT's. most of the road noise I hear is from the rear inner wheel wheels. I can't see any reason to add this stuff........but then again I also drive old 45's and 40's.......so I guess its relative.
 
To LandPimp's point, a lot of noise comes from the rear wheel wells.

My gray 60 in the above post I sold...suspension was just too punishing as a daily driver. (Note: do not use add-a-leafs...go OME or Ironman and it will ride like a Cadillac).

Now on my 3rd 60 (with Ironman suspension)...and it's just for weekend only use. If I had to do it over...I'd Fat Mat the rear wheel wells and quarter panels only...and put the McMaster foam pad (prob non-adhesive version) under the cargo floor carpet.

That would get you 70-80% of the sound deadening at 20-30% the effort and cost.
 

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