Sound Proofing

[MisipLC]

So once he removed the wheel well carpeting, here's where he went to do the cleaning...

 

[MisipLC]

Did you overlap the frost king material or just butt it up against the strip next to it?

Just but it up together. Over lap does not stick very well.

 

[MisipLC]

How much of each did you use? Do you have a link to the fatigue mat?

I have used peel and seal on other vehicles without any issues or smells, but might try this on the LC.

Time spent doing it?

I think we have used 6 rolls at $18.50 a roll.

Here is the link to the matting.

Shop Apache Mills, Inc. Anti-Fatigue Runner 36-in Gray Cast Runner (By-The-Foot) at Lowes.com

It is Durable 3/8" thick closed-cell PVC foam which, as I have read, is what you are looking for to "reduce" the sound that will pass through the first layer adhered to the metal panel. While not the same as Dynaliner which is sold in 32" x 54" x 1/2" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound mats for $67.76. That is approximately 1.5 yards or around $45 a yard. I think the fatigue mat can do a good enough job for me at 4.50 a yard.

I can buy a lot of double sided permanent carpet tape from Wally-Mart with the dif.

Glad to here from a Mudder on the peal and seal. There is so much discussion about it, that it is hard to tell fact from fiction. Also, I do know installation technic has to have some effect on success with the product. Tite Seal has more butyl rubber in it, but should have the same vibration effect as peal and seal.

Time is a relative thing. My son's truck is waiting on its motor so we have not really been so worried about that. However, I would says with help, it could be done in a couple days. If your 80 is a daily driver, do it in stages. pull seats and carpet one day, roof another, and door another. Just a thought.

After doing B's truck, I added Frost King to my F150 crew. Did back wall one day, front doors another and rear door another. It took a couple hours for each, and I'll set aside a half days or so and some frosty adult bev.'s for the floor and then the roof.

If you want to be real thorough, aluminum tape would be good over the seams - ala Dynamat - or duck tape.
Hope this helps.

 

[VuickB6]

I apologize if it seems like I'm s***ting on your install but sound deadening and controlling vibration and resonance are two different problems and are solved in different ways.

To get a better idea of how to do this like the professionals go to Sound Deadener Showdown. That website is a good resource for this stuff.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I think we have used 6 rolls at $18.50 a roll.

Here is the link to the matting.

Shop Apache Mills, Inc. Anti-Fatigue Runner 36-in Gray Cast Runner (By-The-Foot) at Lowes.com

It is Durable 3/8" thick closed-cell PVC foam which, as I have read, is what you are looking for to "reduce" the sound that will pass through the first layer adhered to the metal panel. While not the same as Dynaliner which is sold in 32" x 54" x 1/2" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound mats for $67.76. That is approximately 1.5 yards or around $45 a yard. I think the fatigue mat can do a good enough job for me at 4.50 a yard.

I can buy a lot of double sided permanent carpet tape from Wally-Mart with the dif.

Glad to here from a Mudder on the peal and seal. There is so much discussion about it, that it is hard to tell fact from fiction. Also, I do know installation technic has to have some effect on success with the product. Tite Seal has more butyl rubber in it, but should have the same vibration effect as peal and seal.

Time is a relative thing. My son's truck is waiting on its motor so we have not really been so worried about that. However, I would says with help, it could be done in a couple days. If your 80 is a daily driver, do it in stages. pull seats and carpet one day, roof another, and door another. Just a thought.

After doing B's truck, I added Frost King to my F150 crew. Did back wall one day, front doors another and rear door another. It took a couple hours for each, and I'll set aside a half days or so and some frosty adult bev.'s for the floor and then the roof.

If you want to be real thorough, aluminum tape would be good over the seams - ala Dynamat - or duck tape.
Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info. Did you get the Tite Seal at Lowe's as well?

I put Peal and Seal in a 4Runner that I had. I only put it in the doors (to make the THUNK sound)....but I think I am going to end up putting the Tite Seal in the LC when I have time. I need to run amp some wires etc anyway so I will probably just pull everything out and do it all at the same time. Anyway, on the P&S I read all of the reviews about it melting/smelling/etc and while it did smell a little when it came out of the package it wasn't overbearing. Even in the Alabama HOT summer I didn't have any smells come back to haunt me or any melting issues at all. Of course ymmv....but I thought it did a good job for what I paid vs the pro stuff. Doors are like big drums....and even putting a small amount on the inside of the doors can make a noticeable difference as far as quietening down some of the vibration noise that you don't realize is there until it is gone!

Good job and thanks for the info and motivation.

 

[MisipLC]

Yep, I agree. "Soundproofing" is a generic term, like Kleenex, used to describe the process. I offer that the process actually should be called noise reduction. But soundproofing sells. With all the glass, the cab will never be sound "proof".

Here is a great video.

I noted that in this video they use aluminum backed Dynamat. In another instructional video they used rubber Dynamat on the door.

Sound Deadener Showdown breaks the process into 3 parts. Control vibration and resonance, block sound and absorb frequency. I am using the Frost King to control or reduce vibrations of large panels, thus reducing resonance. While they use weighed panels, cover as much of panel as possible. This is to give the bonus effect of insulating the panels for temp control. CCF was added to the floor and ceiling to help block or absorb the residual sound.

The products I chose were meant to mimic the expensive stuff without breaking the bank. Also, a lot more could be done, but I am just getting all I can out of what I have time to do.

To increase my result, I could have Tite Sealed all panels, then frost kinged, then covered with a CCF. BUT, we just Frost Kinged and put some CCF in for a quieter ride.

 

[MisipLC]

Thanks for the info. Did you get the Tite Seal at Lowe's as well?

I put Peal and Seal in a 4Runner that I had. I only put it in the doors (to make the THUNK sound)....but I think I am going to end up putting the Tite Seal in the LC when I have time. I need to run amp some wires etc anyway so I will probably just pull everything out and do it all at the same time. Anyway, on the P&S I read all of the reviews about it melting/smelling/etc and while it did smell a little when it came out of the package it wasn't overbearing. Even in the Alabama HOT summer I didn't have any smells come back to haunt me or any melting issues at all. Of course ymmv....but I thought it did a good job for what I paid vs the pro stuff. Doors are like big drums....and even putting a small amount on the inside of the doors can make a noticeable difference as far as quietening down some of the vibration noise that you don't realize is there until it is gone!

Good job and thanks for the info and motivation.

Yes, Tite Seal is found at Lowes.

I agree. I just put it on the inside of the outer panel of my F150 and outside of the inner panel. My doors thunk and now we can actual talk in a normal voice and here the person in the back seat. Down side is that now I can hear the wind noise around door seals. My son showed me solution to that, the volume knob on the radio.

I think it was worth the extra effort. When we do the doors, may go with Tite Seal, then frost king on the doors. At $19 a roll, it is not much more cost. Tite Seal is $19.00 for a 9X33 ft roll. Both go a long way. Just make sure that you use a good roller to press it down.

Used seam roller to press down. It came from Depot. The one at Lowes was a little wide on outside wheels. The $2.00 single wheel broke pretty quick.

 

[dogfishlake]

Great thread, thanks! I think that while the name brand auto sound proofing companies offer great products, they must account for greater advertising expense as well as developing a product for a specific market. What you have found represents the major cost saving one can find with perserverence, research, and a bit of risk, I suppose, with a great end product for the rest of us to follow. You are the perfect example of why I think MUD is so great. I will keep this info bookmarked as this is a soon to be project for me.

 

[dirtyboots]

Have to agree with @dogfishlake in that this type of tech makes mud great. Often there is some compromise regardless. @VuickB6 has stated sound deadener showdown is probably the best resource to learn about how to best apply some of the aforementioned products. I had to read, and read again after th eyeballs fell out of my head to try and grasp all of the concepts.

One concept that is often overlooked is the application of butyl. For those moving forward, and something for the op to consider, the butyl layer doesn't necessarily need to be a solid layer. Instead one can apply the butyl in tiles spread out over an area with gaps. It cuts down on the weight, saves money, and provides the same effect, vibration dampening. Next closed cell foam, then MLV as the requisite contiguous barrier.

Having said that aside from cost and weight, the other negative of solid layers of butyl is something I haven't experienced but did read on the internet so it must be true. A solid layer of butyl may make your body panel more prone to dent. Specifically the roof.

Just .02, best of luck with the build, and extra props for taking the time to post with great pics! It's a very nit picky reply with the intent to present some other perspectives, with an overall spirit of encouragement. If that's possible.

 

[KrOswalt]

Hopefully the OP is still around, but how did this project do all around as a sound deadener and an insulation? Looking to do my cargo area around the fender wells, wouldn’t mind doing the entire truck if the insulation factor is there but is fatigue matt good as an insulation?

 

[Nightbrew]

Hopefully the OP is still around, but how did this project do all around as a sound deadener and an insulation? Looking to do my cargo area around the fender wells, wouldn’t mind doing the entire truck if the insulation factor is there but is fatigue matt good as an insulation?

I am curious about a review as well. Hopefully op will chime in.