Sound Proofing

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Joined
Apr 1, 2014
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Location
Winona, Mississippi
While we wait for our engine to come back from the shop, decided to do some of those "like to" mods. Here is one we did with high cost, high tech material.

We used the space age material Frosting King self-adhesive duct insulation. There are a lot of threads in a lot of forums on sound proofing a vehicle. And there are a lot of opinions out there on the subject. One of the common themes is that your truck cannot be soundproofed. It is actually "sound deadening". What you are trying to do is reduce the noise caused by the vibration of your truck's steal body panels, thus changing the frequency of the vibrations. To stop the panel from vibrating, weight equal to 3 or so times the panel's weight must be added. That is impractical. Fatmat, Dynamat and the like are "generally" product made of butyl rubber, aluminum backing and an adhesive - simplified. Peel and Seal has been used, and there are number of videos on the subject. The issue most have is the smell. Peel and seal is a tar based product. I used Tite Seal as it more butyl rubber based.

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The OEM “sound proofing” is jute which has minimal sound deadening properties.


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On top of the Frost King, some form of closed cell foam is better as it helps create a barrier that absorbs sound that passes through the butyl rubber layer. Adding a third layer of closed foam completes the package.

This seems to be the basic system sold by all the commercial sound proofing suppliers. I order some 1/2" closed foam from Zoro.com.

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We used it under the front carpet. I also use Blue Hawk Gray Anti-Fatigue Floor Mat from Lowes under the carpet between front and back seats.

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And finally, I put a tread mill mat from Academy Sports in the rear.

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The fatigue mat can be purchased at $4.95 a foot, 3 feet wide. I want to compare that to cost of Dynamat and Fatmat. Lesser costing commercial materials are said to be thinner, requiring the application of 2 layer, or more, bring the cost back up to that of Dynamat or Fatmat.
 
Closed cell foam in the footwells. We sued the OEM jute from the bottom of the carpet as a guide for cutting the ccf. on reflections, might have been just as well to use fatigue matting here. $4.95 a yard would have been cheaper and maybe a better insulator.

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Being cheap, we used the fatigue mat under front row seats, all the way back to under the passenger seats.

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Placed the Acadomy Sports mat in the back. But on reflection, believe we are going to use fatigue matting to get full coverage of the area.

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Used leftover ccf between the spars in the roof.

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That looks good and quiet. Although for your roof I think I'd get some aluminum 'speed' tape and put that along the edges of the rubber pieces you glued, I've never trusted that glue to hold something above the headliner, especially after a few 90+ degree days......
I like Frost King also, have done a couple cars with it and used the factory tar type mats on top, it really quieted them down. And the price is right, a car can be done with under 2 rolls.
 
Any reason you didn't do the rear wheel wells?
 
Thanks guys. This has been an interesting project. Good idea on the tape gbeltran. Debating pulling carpet on wheel wells. It's stuck down pretty good. However, that is a real noise a very and would be worth the effort in the long run. Gunna do the doors qdall. Frosty on outside skin and inside. That helps dampen vibration of both panels.
 
true but I think that this method was a bit extreme and the real issue was that it was holding in moisture. It also interfered with the foot peddles and the window regulators were all jammed with the stuffed in foam.
 
Definitely do the wheel wells, as long as your that far don't skimp. They transmit a lot of noise. I have a old convertible and if I drive with the top up (which is rare) I hear every little pebble and whatnot coming from that area. It's one of those "I'll get to it" things, but since it's mostly top down I haven't bothered....
 

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