Soon to be attempted 4M50->FZJ80 swap

[Zwcruiser]

And last, but not least is a link to a video of the engine running! 4M50 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! I found out the hard way that the emergency kill switch does indeed have to be wired in to the system for the injector pump to put out any fuel......I spent more than a day between trying to get it primed and then when it wouldn't trying to figure out what exactly was keeping the pump from activating. After I got it started the first time I took the large hose off the top of the oil filter and started it up to make sure oil was flowing- it wasn't. Then I cut the smaller line that feeds the filter off of the barb and put my finger over it to see if there was any pressure and it was only intermittent. Then I had the bright idea of sucking on it to see if I could get anything. At that point I got some first hand experience what it must be like at a busted oil well! Fortunately I sensed it was coming so none got in my mouth, but plenty made it's way into my hair and one of my ears as well as the Land Cruiser, the floor and wall and even a little bit on my laptop. I guess there had been some sort of airlock that I then broke.

 

[Bjohnston115]

awesome man. I am currently looking for a 4d34 fuso to put this in my fj80. I would be making a hybrid 440 450 like astr rather than the 442 450.

 

[Pacer]

This is fantastic work!
What a long road this has been for you and your crew, with the rebuild and all...
Had you left the kill switch out during your harness modification? What a frustrating day that must have been, with a very fulfilling result, well done!

Bjonston115, why the 4d34 if you now know this one may work? I may have a line on an `02 Fuso with the drive line you are interested in, pm me....

 

[Bjohnston115]

This is fantastic work!
What a long road this has been for you and your crew, with the rebuild and all...
Had you left the kill switch out during your harness modification? What a frustrating day that must have been, with a very fulfilling result, well done!

Bjonston115, why the 4d34 if you now know this one may work? I may have a line on an `02 Fuso with the drive line you are interested in, pm me....

i dont really want to move the drivetrain forward. I also like the simplicity of an older engine.

 

[Fromage]

i dont really want to move the drivetrain forward. I also like the simplicity of an older engine.

Not to highjack but I think that the older 4D3 and an A440F with a converter and bellhousing from a 450-43LE is a GREAT way to go. Super simple, all mechanical, and easy to turn the power up. All the other options are also good choices but they get progressively worse. The wiring in these newer swaps is pretty tough, and there is a chance that you could screw it up and never be able to figure it out.

I have a spare torque converter and bellhousing from a 450-43LE that I am saving for an FJ80 if I can find one cheap enough.

 

[Bjohnston115]

That is what I want actually. I have the 440 in my truck and I'm looking for a mid 90s 4d34. The newer model bellhoising will still bolt to the older 4d right? Anyone know where I can source just a aw450 bell housing? I've been searching online.

 

[Fromage]

That is what I want actually. I have the 440 in my truck and I'm looking for a mid 90s 4d34. The newer model bellhoising will still bolt to the older 4d right? Anyone know where I can source just a aw450 bell housing? I've been searching online.

Based on what wee have seen the ones bolted to a Jatco automatic will bolt up to the new 450-43LE bellhousing, older than that and 5 speeds I am not sure but I would bet on it.

There is a guy in Maine that is selling a lot of Fuso stuff on Ebay, get a hold of him, he might have something. I have a bellhousing and torque I would sell for 500 bucks - Not a great price since I want to keep them...

 

[Zwcruiser]

Well I have actually driven the Land Cruiser around the yard a little bit! I will describe what I'm dealing with now: Over the last couple weeks I deleted the in-tank fuel pump and grafted in the wiring and electronics for all of the starting and running operations. I needed fuses for 2 continuous power (20A, for the ECU&TCU) and 6 switched power (10A), one of them being for the start signal. I was able to find a continuous power in IH1 and the leftover plug from the Toyota ECU, and there was a heavy switched line in IH1 that I used for the 5 circuits that I needed. I then grafted in a wire to the ignition switch (I thing it was post st.2 if I remember correctly) for the start solenoid. A week ago this past Sat. night (around 10:45) I finally got the shift linkage hooked up (had to make an extension out of a little piece of metal plate to make up for moving everything forward) and the rear drive shaft put in (the exhaust downpipe had been interfering with the front shaft but since then I had it bent out of the way). I then started it up, put it in low and pulled up out of the garage! I noticed right away that I had to give it a good bit of pedal before it would go and it also wouldn't move in reverse. I probably drove it a total of a few hundred feet. This week I got the front shaft in and put in another 5+ qts of atf to bring it up to normal. After filling it I can tell a difference in the way it feels. I have verified that fluid is circulating through the cooler; at first it was a little dark so I let it run out for a bit until it was clean. As it stands right now it will not drive forward or reverse. When I start it up and put it in Reverse it clearly engages and like a high torque engine starts to move at idle, but after an inch or two it stops like the brakes are on (no, the em. brake isn't on). If I try to rev it the engine clearly has a load on it and will only go so high. It does the same thing in Drive now, except it will go maybe half a foot or so before it stops. At first I was thinking/hoping that it was an issue with the parking pawl engaging all the time (the parking rod on the 450 is a couple millimeters bigger in diameter than the one on the 442; I was hoping that the extra diameter was pushing the pawl into the gear at all times), but it's not. I took the T case off and took the parking gear out and then put the ext. housing back on and watched the shaft do the same thing that the vehicle was doing with the drive train intact. I guess my only option is to take the transmission off and get a shop to look at it

 

[astr]

Did you drive the donor truck before you pulled the engine and transmission? Was the transmission working properly then?

 

[Zwcruiser]

Some pictures....

#1 I opened the case of the ECU just to see what it looked like.....I was disappointed that there weren't any usb or firewire ports in there, or even a 'more power switch'.

#2-3 I used Velcro tape to mount all of the computer boxes.

 

[Zwcruiser]

Yes, I did drive the truck and the transmission didn't exhibit any issues. And I'm rather certain that there weren't any left over parts after putting it back together; maybe some extra parts got put back in


Picture #1: New fuse terminals made from insulated blade-type quick connects
#2: Start solenoid wire grafted into St2

 

[Zwcruiser]

Transmission cooler mount

I decided to get a bit creative with things (again!).

 

[astr]

If I were in your situation, here is how I would approach it:

1) Check to see if the TCU is showing any fault codes. In the Isuzu configuration, it required doing a bunch of things simultaneously like having it in a certain gear, pushing the brake and accelerator. I don't remember the exact sequence but your FSM should give you the sequence. The codes were then displayed as flashes on some lamp on the instrument panel. Any error codes may give you a hint as where to look.

2) When you select a gear, you are both positioning a valve in the valve bdy and telling the TCU what gear you have selected via the "neutral lockout switch" that is mounted on the outside of the transmission and the "manual valve lever shaft" passes through it. This switch can be adjusted so that what it is telling the TCU is in sync with the actual position of the "manual valve" which is affecting the hydraulic circuits within the tranmission. There should be a section in the FSM describing how to adjust this switch.

3) The last thing that I would do, before tearing into the transmission proper, is to verifys that all of the control signal are working correctly. AT THE TCU, verify that the proper pin is high (12 volts +/-) when a specific gear is selected. There should be one line per gear selector position. AT THE TRANSMISSION, check that the proper solenoids are being activated. A simple 12 volt LED can be wired, one to each solenoid, to give you an indication as what the TCU is commanding the transmission to do. IIRC, three solenoids have one side grounded and the forth has both sides connected to the TCU. The FSM should tell you the different combinations for each gear.

Good luck!

 

[Zwcruiser]

Well I decided to check the inhibitor switch as described in the first picture; no continuity! The second picture shows all of it's innards. I did do an electronic diagnosis the other day which is accomplished by disconnecting a single-wire plug; there is also a plug to disconnect to recall past codes. The ECU and TCU each have their own separate system. The only codes that I was getting consistently were 34 and 54,but more recently 34 has stopped coming up. 54 is coming up because the exhaust brake system is still disconnected. 34 is the Line pressure solenoid, and the conditions that usually cause it to trigger are a wire breakage or short circuit. The fail safe measure is to turn off the line pressure solenoid. I don't know if that could cause the issues that I'm seeing or not, but I did do a continuity test and everything's good from the plug on the transmission to the TCU, so if that is a real problem then it's inside the transmission.
Now back to the inhibitor switch, which as you said electronically tells the TCU what gear the trans. is in. You can see just as well as I can what this page from the manual says, but I didn't get any continuity with it put together: when I took it apart and slid the arm along the various positions (holding it down with a little pressure) every contact point worked according to the chart. I then went out and did a diagnostic check with the inhibitor switch out and it activated the proper code which went away when I put the switch back in. Then I tested all of the leads to the gear position lights and each wire gets power in it's proper sequence (P,N,R,D,2,1). That indicates that the switch is working and the TCU is able to read whatever position it indicates. I can't figure out the thing about not having continuity between terminals when it's put together. The only thing I didn't do was try to see what signal the TCU is trying to send to the transmission. One thing that I will also mention is that so far I haven't connected the two Vehicle Speed Sensors: is there anything that would lock something up in the transmission (while it's still in gear and trying to go) if it doesn't think the vehicle is moving?

 

[Zwcruiser]

Here's a link to download the Mitsubishi Fuso FSM that I have.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B28Iy_iY0RwfOFlxV0NwcmRFYVU

 

[Pacer]

Thanks for the link Zw.

My engine and trans are up and running in the Fuso again if I can be of any assistance, test anything with you.

 

[Zwcruiser]

First road test......

I'll try to post up every thing that I've been working on as I have time, but for right now here's a video......First road test | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
The issue I had with the transmission was that the overdrive clutches were bent; apparently the overdrive planetary assembly wasn't fully seated when it was put back in from changing the output shaft. So, $175 and almost 3 weeks in the shop later I got it back, put everything back on and it worked!

 

[longbow]

Nice Job!!!

First road test is always a morale booster!

Don

 

[astr]

Congratulations on resolving your problem. Unfortunately, due to the complexity of automatics, it is easy to misassemble and only find out after it is in the vehicle that you have a problem. Keep the faith!

 

[Zwcruiser]

Well I've been putting off writing an update because I 'haven't had the time for a proper update', so here is a mini update: it has been on the road for a couple weeks now, there's some kind of electronic issue that I'm trying to trace down that requires that I have the TDC position sensor unplugged, otherwise it majorly cuts power when it warms up. It has something to do with the TDC sensor and Timer Control Valve not getting the right signal or not relaying it right. I'm getting some ideas on what to do about it but haven't had a chance to really dig into it. Other than the issues surrounding this electrical problem it's running good.

I put on a set of 850Js and 863s. The first picture is stock springs/tires, second is after the springs, third is with some new sandals on. It doesn't really show it in the picture but when I'm sitting inside my head is at the same level it is when I stand outside (I'm around 6'3").