Soon to be attempted 4M50->FZJ80 swap

[Zwcruiser]

Well, after a long [busyness induced] silence I have some things to post. My friend brought the Land Cruiser down on the 25th of last month and stayed until yesterday morning. We worked on the project almost non-stop while he was here, often staying up until 10-11 at night. We got a decent number of pictures that I'll be posting up as my limit allows. On the 4M50 the problem ended up being a hole in #2 piston, probably caused by that cylinder's oil jet being bent down in combination with a bad injector pattern. I also ended up replacing all of the bearings. It looks like the engine was recently rebuilt (block looks brand new) but put together rather carelessly. The engine is mostly assembled now and waiting for me to find a place to clean/test the injectors. I am thinking that while I have them out I might as well get them flowed out a little. Any thoughts? One shop that I talked to does extrusion honing in 25hp increments; he said "I don't think I can get you much over a 200hp increase". I told him I was only looking for 25-50hp, which would be $46ea. I desperately hope that I don't have to replace any of the nozzles; the Mitsubishi dealership quoted me $247 per nozzle! The transmission and transfer case are mostly bolted in now but I may end up having to pull them back out a little bit when I go to join the engine back up. Can any of you who have walked this road before give me some details on what all I need to do for the wiring in the Land Cruiser? I will post more details and pictures as I have time.

 

[Zwcruiser]

Well I would upload more pictures but the up loader says that I have exceeded my limit,so...... Anyway right now I'm trying to wrap my mind around what all needs to come out of the truck in the line of wires, modules, sensors, etc....

 

[Dougal]

I wouldn't bother modifying the injectors until you are pushing 50% or more above stock power levels. The risk of ruining the spray pattern at lower power (i.e. crusing) is a real one.

 

[Zwcruiser]

I wouldn't bother modifying the injectors until you are pushing 50% or more above stock power levels. The risk of ruining the spray pattern at lower power (i.e. crusing) is a real one.

So what would be your recommendation for enhancements/modifications that would primarily increase efficiency but give some power gains as well? I plan on doing a 3" exhaust and making sure the intake is adequate. I had my injectors checked and they do need to be replaced. The shop that checked them can rebuild them or get brand new ones for around $130; I found a shop (Diesel Fuel Injection Repair for the Midwest | Diesel Truck and RV Repair | Truck and RV Performance Center | Huckstorf Diesel Pump and Injector Service Inc of Wisconsin) that quoted me $102ea new, but it was late enough Fri afternoon that he couldn't see if his supplier had them in stock.

 

[Dougal]

So what would be your recommendation for enhancements/modifications that would primarily increase efficiency but give some power gains as well? I plan on doing a 3" exhaust and making sure the intake is adequate. I had my injectors checked and they do need to be replaced. The shop that checked them can rebuild them or get brand new ones for around $130; I found a shop (Diesel Fuel Injection Repair for the Midwest | Diesel Truck and RV Repair | Truck and RV Performance Center | Huckstorf Diesel Pump and Injector Service Inc of Wisconsin) that quoted me $102ea new, but it was late enough Fri afternoon that he couldn't see if his supplier had them in stock.

There are no simple mods which increase efficiency. If there were the engineers at Mitsubishi would have done it. The only way to get more power on an EFI diesel is by either recalibrating the fuel pump (so it is injecting more fuel than the computer thinks it is) or remapping the computer. I would disable the EGR if you can without the computer throwing an error code.

I wouldn't even bother getting injectors serviced until the engine is in and running. The difference between perfectly working DI injectors and ones that are completely worn out can't be determined at the pump.
Are your current injectors out in spray pattern or just pop pressure?

 

[Zwcruiser]

The report that I got said that 3 out of 4 nozzles dripped on the pop tester, all had poor spray pattern/atomization and some had clogged holes.

 

[Zwcruiser]

Oh, I forgot to mention that this engine doesn't have an EGR. I haven't seen one on it and the service manual never mentions it. Also I think there had been some discussion about this engine being common rail but it isn't. It has a Denso distributor type electronically controlled injection pump.

 

[Zwcruiser]

Since I can't post any more pictures here I created an online album for them-http://www.flickr.com/photos/zwcruiser/sets/72157629740652779/

 

[Muleysam]

Thanks for the pictures. I am leaning toward this swap. I want to us the land cruiser tanny with the mitsu torque converter and valve body. Do you think this will work? I should also mention that my cruiser is a 94 and has the A442F tranny.

 

[Pacer]

Since I can't post any more pictures here I created an online album for them-http://www.flickr.com/photos/zwcruiser/sets/72157629740652779/

Wow thats tight, nice work!
Is it home, trans and tcase mounted?
Looks like a little clearance on the firewall from a BFH will help a lot.
I've read that the a450's bell housing gives you and extra 3/4", looks like you need every bit of it.

This twin cam motor has a much wider head than our old straight sixes.

 

[Fromage]

Holy crap, you've been busy! Looks really good. It looks like the firewall to engine interference is more of an issue than the 4D34T. Did you figure out what the engine issue was? Did you lose an oiler jet? I couldn't make it out from the photos.

Good work!

 

[Zwcruiser]

Thanks for the pictures. I am leaning toward this swap. I want to us the land cruiser tanny with the mitsu torque converter and valve body. Do you think this will work? I should also mention that my cruiser is a 94 and has the A442F tranny.

I think that the setup you are describing *should* work, but I can't say for sure. Maybe Fromage would be willing to answer this question? It seems like I remember him mentioning in the beginning of his thread that he was going to do something similar to what you mentioned. You do know that the AW450 gives a little lower cruising rpm, as well as lockup in 2nd 3rd and 4th, don't you? There is a discussion about this in either Fromage's thread or Superhatch's, can't remember which.

 

[Zwcruiser]

Wow thats tight, nice work!
Is it home, trans and tcase mounted?
Looks like a little clearance on the firewall from a BFH will help a lot.
I've read that the a450's bell housing gives you and extra 3/4", looks like you need every bit of it.

This twin cam motor has a much wider head than our old straight sixes.

The driveshafts aren't hooked up to the transfer case and none of the shift linkage is hooked up, but everything else is mounted and bolted up. I am going to have to do something similar to what Fromage and Superhatch did with their turbos, except I think that I will cut off the flange from the downpipe and weld to that instead of directly to the turbo.

 

[Zwcruiser]

Fromage, I added another photo to that album that graphically answers your question. Would you mind going over the details of what you did to integrate the truck's electronics with those of the Land Cruiser? Did you use anything other than the ECU, TCU, MUTIC, relays, etc...? At which places did you splice in to the Land Cruiser's harness? There is also an Engine Drive unit that works with/controls the injection process, and I believe it is unique to the 4M50.
Superhatch, if you happen to see these questions you are more than welcome to come in with your experience, as well as anyone else who might happen to know something about these systems.

 

[SuperHatch]

I think that the setup you are describing *should* work, but I can't say for sure. Maybe Fromage would be willing to answer this question? It seems like I remember him mentioning in the beginning of his thread that he was going to do something similar to what you mentioned. You do know that the AW450 gives a little lower cruising rpm, as well as lockup in 2nd 3rd and 4th, don't you? There is a discussion about this in either Fromage's thread or Superhatch's, can't remember which.

The ECU controls the lockup in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. So using the AW450 VB in the A442F with the AW450 TCU, the converter will lock in the other gears as well.

The only difference will be that the A442F will have a taller first and a shorter OD resulting in less gear in first and a higher cruising RPM.

For what it's worth... the A44F in Aisin language is AW450-42LF

The driveshafts aren't hooked up to the transfer case and none of the shift linkage is hooked up, but everything else is mounted and bolted up. I am going to have to do something similar to what Fromage and Superhatch did with their turbos, except I think that I will cut off the flange from the downpipe and weld to that instead of directly to the turbo.

I believe the 4M50 exhaust manifold pattern is symetrical like the 4D34, so flipping the manifold will work.

I wish I had done something different with the turbine housing now that I'm looking into turbo upgrades, but that's hindsight for ya.

Fromage, I added another photo to that album that graphically answers your question. Would you mind going over the details of what you did to integrate the truck's electronics with those of the Land Cruiser? Did you use anything other than the ECU, TCU, MUTIC, relays, etc...? At which places did you splice in to the Land Cruiser's harness? There is also an Engine Drive unit that works with/controls the injection process, and I believe it is unique to the 4M50.
Superhatch, if you happen to see these questions you are more than welcome to come in with your experience, as well as anyone else who might happen to know something about these systems.

Take a good look at the stock 1FZ harness. There are two white connectors on the harness near the ECU, the FSM calls the IH1 and IH2. These connectors are where you'll be able to pull your constant power and switched power, as well as feed information to warning lights, etc. There are also 4 grey plugs that connect to the ECU, three are on the main engine harness, the 4th connects to the dash harness. This is also used ot feed info to warning lights, gear posiiton indicators, etc. Lastly, there is a single plug in the engine bay on the front of the 1FZ intake manifold near the distributor. This can be used to supply 12V power from the EFI relay, it twpically powers the O2 sensor heaters, coil pack, etc. on the EFI harness. It won't do anything unless you trigger the EFI relay, which is triggered by a wire on either IH1, IH2, or that 4th grey connector. I don't remember exactly.

You will need to use a few connectors off of the 1FZ harness, like the ones related to the H-L level position, Center Diff Lock, Diff Lock Indicator, etc.

Also, pull the coolant temp sensor off of the 1FZ, it is on the intake manifold side of the block near the front above the PS pump, it is a single wire. This is not the engine coolant temp sensor for the ECU, but the temp sensor for the gauge. Also use the oil pressure sending unit off the 1FZ. This will make those two gauges work.

 

[SuperHatch]

PS - I have the complete 96 Landcruiser FSM in PDF format if you're in need.

 

[Pacer]

I believe the 4M50 exhaust manifold pattern is symetrical like the 4D34, so flipping the manifold will work.

I wish I had done something different with the turbine housing now that I'm looking into turbo upgrades, but that's hindsight for ya.

The manifold's bolt flange is symmetrical, and looks to be flippable, doing so will move the turbo forward and UP significantly.

Super tech as usual Superhatch, thank you.

Zwcruiser, we gotta figure out how to get your pics up here.
I'll sponsor your silver star if that's what it takes....

 

[Fromage]

Superhatch is spot on, a couple of other things I thought of:

There are some differences between the A442F and the A343F equipped trucks in the harness. The early trucks had the TCM on the left side of the truck, under the dash. IIRC the later trucks had one computer that controlled both the engine and tranny. This means that on an earlier truck, you need to make a few connections on the driver's side for the overdrive button and PWR button. The original TCM can be removed totally without any ill effects to the lockers etc. There is some work to be done as the Cruiser switched the overdrive through a ground signal and the Fuso needs +12V so you need one relay. The Toyota power button is +12V so it is easier.

On the subject of using the original A442F with the valvebody, torque converter and controls from the Fuso, we still don't know if it would work. The issue I can foresee is that the computer gets the output shaft speed information from the speed sensor in the tailhousing. In 1st and 4th, that speed will be off due to the different gearing of thr A442F compared to the 450. It might cause the computer to freak out and flash a code.

Since the computer seems to be pretty crude and there is no error code for incompatible/incorrect output speed or any other code that would relate to slippage, I think it's a safe bet that it would work. I will say that I am damn glad to have that 0.70 gear in 4th and it feels like it could drive more gear, especially when I run smaller tires in the winter. On my summer 33s it seems just about perfect, maybe a 0.65 would be even better.

 

[SuperHatch]

Superhatch is spot on, a couple of other things I thought of:

There are some differences between the A442F and the A343F equipped trucks in the harness. The early trucks had the TCM on the left side of the truck, under the dash. IIRC the later trucks had one computer that controlled both the engine and tranny. This means that on an earlier truck, you need to make a few connections on the driver's side for the overdrive button and PWR button. The original TCM can be removed totally without any ill effects to the lockers etc. There is some work to be done as the Cruiser switched the overdrive through a ground signal and the Fuso needs +12V so you need one relay. The Toyota power button is +12V so it is easier..

You do remember correctly... On the later trucks the PWR & OD signals are fed through that 4th grey plug on the ECU if I remember correctly...

The later trucks must be different, because I did not need a relay for the OD off button, the factory wiring worked square away.

 

[Zwcruiser]

Good news! I have posted enough times that I now have more photo storage space! Bad news; since I already have all of my previous pictures posted on flickr 96 FZJ80-4M50 Swap - a set on Flickr I don't really feel like re-posting them here. But, I have included some pictures of the turbo.
1st picture: Pretty close to where it would sit if the manifold is flipped. Why does that downpipe have to interfere like that? I wanted to use it!
#2 Turbo in stock location. There's a little bit of room there....
#3 I guess I will have to flip the manifold and modify the turbo oil lines and cut off part of the downpipe