Something timing belt-ish failed
- Thread starter chopperjamie
- Start date
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Relax and remember if you were a tooth off anywhere you would never be able to get it that close. The belt stripes all hit the mark. I've done dozens of T-belts over the years and they all have their quirks and tricks, but you are good to go on this. Button her up and go enjoy your Cruiser again!
2001LC
SILVER Star
Couldn’t find it in the video or tutorial, but I found it in the FSM. The two bolts for the water inlet pipe, where the FSM says needs to be torqued down within a few minutes, needs to be torqued to 13 ft lbs.
The Permatex I used says hand tighten until it starts to come out, then let it sit for an hour, then torque and let sit for 24 hours. That will be today at 6pm.
I’ll change the oil, and finish putting it back together today.
The Permatex I used says hand tighten until it starts to come out, then let it sit for an hour, then torque and let sit for 24 hours. That will be today at 6pm.
I’ll change the oil, and finish putting it back together today.
Good call on the alternator brushes. It was $20 and 10 min. There wasn't much left on the old ones.
Be careful putting the long 12mm bolts in the fan bracket and alternator. The one with the nut goes with the alternator. I switched them and struggled with how to put the alternator on untill I realized that I had switched the bolts.
Took 3 gallons to top the coolant off. I used this.
Used rotella like I always have with a mobile 1 filter.
Truck fired right up. 12 miles and no leaks
Thank you for all the help!
Be careful putting the long 12mm bolts in the fan bracket and alternator. The one with the nut goes with the alternator. I switched them and struggled with how to put the alternator on untill I realized that I had switched the bolts.
Took 3 gallons to top the coolant off. I used this.
Used rotella like I always have with a mobile 1 filter.
Truck fired right up. 12 miles and no leaks
Thank you for all the help!
2001LC
SILVER Star
Great job! Doesn't it feel rewarding working with your hands, then seeing and enjoying your accomplishment
Tip: Make sure to check coolant level in radiator after 8 hour cool down. Each morning until system will no longer take/needs any coolant added. Engine must first be run up to full OP temp with cabin heaters on full hot and driven at 2000 RPM.
Why the 15W-40 diesel oil. 2UZ-fe gas engine calls for 5W-30. On cold startup the high "W" will increase engine wear!
There's one "dude" on mud touting that viscosity "W" diesel oil or higher. To "validate" his "tout" at the time; he showed ~20MPG from a screen shot of NAV screen. But recently he started a thread, posting up screen shots showing his tracking MPG over about a dozen tankfuls of gas from various vendors. It showed his MPG ~12.5 MPG, which is ~2 MPG below average for his area.
If you live in a desert with temps around 115 f range, you may want a higher viscosity in the summer. But in USA Toyota has now gone to 0W-20 in the 200 series. It improves fuel economy, faster cranking on cold morning start up and reduces cool startup wear.
All 2UZ-fe I use 5W-30 Mobil 1, it's readily available and top shelve. Any good synthetic gasoline engine oil is best choice.
Tip: Make sure to check coolant level in radiator after 8 hour cool down. Each morning until system will no longer take/needs any coolant added. Engine must first be run up to full OP temp with cabin heaters on full hot and driven at 2000 RPM.
Why the 15W-40 diesel oil. 2UZ-fe gas engine calls for 5W-30. On cold startup the high "W" will increase engine wear!There's one "dude" on mud touting that viscosity "W" diesel oil or higher. To "validate" his "tout" at the time; he showed ~20MPG from a screen shot of NAV screen. But recently he started a thread, posting up screen shots showing his tracking MPG over about a dozen tankfuls of gas from various vendors. It showed his MPG ~12.5 MPG, which is ~2 MPG below average for his area.
If you live in a desert with temps around 115 f range, you may want a higher viscosity in the summer. But in USA Toyota has now gone to 0W-20 in the 200 series. It improves fuel economy, faster cranking on cold morning start up and reduces cool startup wear.
All 2UZ-fe I use 5W-30 Mobil 1, it's readily available and top shelve. Any good synthetic gasoline engine oil is best choice.
It does feel rewarding but I can't put my socks on without being reminded of the "rewards". Ask me in a few days. I really appreciate all your advice and direction. It definitely helped.
I've been using Rotella for about 10 years since I researched for my 80. I live in central California so it does get hot but for the most part, the weather is pretty mild.
I can't remember the details but cheap and good quality stands out. I'm sort of a creature of habit.
I change my oil regularly. I'd be open to better options but I've never had a problem.
I've been using Rotella for about 10 years since I researched for my 80. I live in central California so it does get hot but for the most part, the weather is pretty mild.
I can't remember the details but cheap and good quality stands out. I'm sort of a creature of habit.
I change my oil regularly. I'd be open to better options but I've never had a problem.
