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The link above goes to a thread in the Announcements - Help - Testing section of the forum....you are welcome to follow normal menu structure and find it there. ~woody
Interesting stuff. But why do they call it a rust converter? What does the rust convert to? My guess is one should really be using a respirator when spraying that stuff!!!
You never know, Eastwood has a 4 step product line for frames that is completely water soluble, you don't need to wear gloves as it's not acid based. In fact, part of the process is using a clean water rinse.
That looks very interesting. It will help, but it will not eliminate the requirement to washout the frame rails once in a while and get that damp sand/mud/dirt outta there.
I'll stick with my bi-yearly application of waxy oils, and fluid film right now as all the vehicles I have have been treated a few times. But if I ever get down to a fresh frame again I just might give something like that a go. That said, I am always leery now of something that might trap the rust inside, and have it get worse without you knowing till it's too late. That's where the penetrating oils with a wax layer over top are best I think.
What products do you use Greg
Greg's results speak for themselves too - his 74 seems to have no more rust on it then it did 5 years ago, and Petra's 61 is still really clean... both driven through several of our winters.
As a thin and creeping oil: Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor and Rust Check brand name, protect vehicles appearance, proofing companies, manufactures rust preventatives, manufacturer of coatings, manufacturer of rust paints, manufacturer of lubricants and auto repair industry
As a thin wax based creeping: Boeshield I've used the last of this in the witches brew, and will likely not get another gallon. It's nice stuff though, but the above and below are the choice.
As a top coat: 3M Rust Fighter-I - 3M Automotive Coatings, or Welcome to Pro Form Products amber being preferred.
I've been known to make a witch's brew of any or all of the above, and spray that into the frame rails with the applicator I have, hidden body mount cavities, areas where Iv'e drilled holes to get access to cavities, etc.
On the underside (I will do this with the FZJ80 when I get to the diesel swap, drop fuel tank, stage) is a spray with fluid film or red rust check, let it creep a few days, then topcoat with Proform wax based.
There's a number of good threads in the diesel/24V section which have lots of information on different products out there, from the aviation to marine industries.