Some dash lights won't turn off (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 8, 2015
Threads
22
Messages
90
Location
Whidbey Island
Vehicle: 1986 HJ61 12V 12HT
Background: Went offroading yesterday with no issues at all. Bumpy trail, real dusty.
Issue: Woke up this morning and noticed that the Fuel/water separator light, air intake light, and battery light stay on continuously. Drained the fuel/water separator and changed air filter, lights are still on, even when driving around town. Any tips? Anyone have a wiring diagram by chance? I'm thinking there might be some sort of relay that connects all three.

Stephen
 
Check your voltage. Did your alternator charge ? So, check your alternator. Check your voltage regulator. Check your alternator brush.

Might be time to an alternator overhaul

1.jpg
2.jpg
 
I can't seem to find the voltage regulator? I see a small plate on the back of the alternator but not sure if its under there or not. I'm not sure if they moved the voltage regulator to another spot on the vehicle or not. Thanks for the images!
 
That may help you...
1.jpg
2.jpg
 
This is what the back end of mine looks like, which I'm thinking it's without the IC Regulator, although the images don't look exact. I have a 12V too.

IMG_2201.JPG


IMG_2202.JPG
 
Vehicle: 1986 HJ61 12V 12HT
Background: Went offroading yesterday with no issues at all. Bumpy trail, real dusty.
Issue: Woke up this morning and noticed that the Fuel/water separator light, air intake light, and battery light stay on continuously. Drained the fuel/water separator and changed air filter, lights are still on, even when driving around town. Any tips? Anyone have a wiring diagram by chance? I'm thinking there might be some sort of relay that connects all three.

Stephen
Those warning lights do have a common link.
HJ61's have a "bulb check" system for checking that the warning bulbs are all ok.
When you turn the ignition on without starting the engine, the instrument warning lights should all come on, but when the engine is started and running the lights will be off.
I don't have a wiring diagram but pretty sure there is a relay involved.
Perhaps someone can show the FACTORY HJ61 diagram for the bulb check wiring?
 
I know its an old thread. But I have the same problem, after I crashed my alternator. Turbo (Green&Red), Battery and Transmission lights are on all the time when the engine is running. First I thought it is the charge light relay, wich is below the glovebox behind the plastic panel on the right side. But I don't have this relay, I think because this car ist from 1989. I have a new original alternator regulator (external) and I checked all mass/groundings. Alternator overhauled and new brushes. Do you have any idea what can help? Would be fantastic.
 
Attempting to revive this thread as I am having the same issues - all my warning lights stay on.

1988 HJ61 LHD 24v w/o IC regulator

What I have done to date...
A couple of my battery terminals were lightly corroded so took them all off and cleaned them really well. First time starting after and all the warning lights went off like they are supposed to and I was getting a charge above 24v. Ran it for 10 min and then shut it down to hook up my trailer. Started it back up and the warning lights were back on and the charge was slightly under 24v. Ran to the dump - on an off a couple of times and no change.

Batteries are holding just under 12v. No change when running or off. Checked the charge at the alternator terminal and 23.7 when running.

Possible problems?
1) Alternator is not charging and needs to be replaced/rebuilt?
2) Fusible link is blown? Is there an easy way to test this?
3) Loose or worn cables? Unlikely since they are less than 5 years old and I tightened them all up.
4) Loose or worn belt? Unlikely since it is only a couple of years old and I checked that it was tight.
5) Charge light relay? Not sure where this is or how to test it.

Looping in @CenTXFJ60 - Jimmy have you had anything like this with your rig?

Any thoughts or suggestions on trouble shooting would be greatly appreciated. I do have a decent local electrical shop that has rebuilt some other 24v items so I may just pull the alternator and head that route, but would be good to confirm first.

Cheers
 
Tested the external alternator regulator ??
 
Sounds good Jimmy - I will be learning as well...

@sved - Good next step on testing the regulator! When I tested the output from alternator I was checking this lug:

1724684185138.png


In looking at the wiring diagram again this connects to the battery so assume it will show whatever the batteries are reading. If the batteries are charging then it should also register here?

Thinking next step would be to pull the plug on the alternator and check to see what it is putting out before it goes to the regulator:

1724684538464.png


If it is less than 24v then the alternator is bad. If I am getting more than 24v it should be charging and the alternator should be good. Next step would be to test the regulator output:

1724684701717.png


If this is more than 24v then regulator is good and fusible link is bad? But if the fusible link is bad would I even get a voltage reading at the alternator?

If I do need to replace the regulator looks like Cruiser Parts has one:
24v external regulator

Please let me know if my trouble shooting steps are correct. Will hopefully have time to try this evening after work.
 
The regulator is controlling the alternator. So right now it is not '' telling ' the alternator to increase the voltage upp to 26-27 Volt. In other words it is controlling the alt. around 24v, which is to low.
You can mechanically adjust the regulator output by bending the control arm. Not easily because of the stiffness of these arms.
You have the 2H / 12Ht workshop manual.? It is all explained step by step .
 
Do NOT disconnect the B post and leave the regulator connected.
That will blow upp your alternator.
Tha regulator will not sence feedback from the alt .and will try to increase the output.
 
Thanks @sved
I do have the FSM and forgot about looking this up. Found the section on testing both the alternator and the regulator. Will try that along with adjusting the regulator output if applicable.
 
Tested my regulator this evening. Pulled it out and got within a couple of ohms for all factory settings. Dang! So much for the easy diagnosis...

Next I tried adjusting the voltage regulator. A little up and then a little down. No difference either way. Currently reading 23.5 at the alternator and at the batteries. Turned on the lights and dropped to 22.7. Luckily they are LED so don't draw much, but enough that I would want to run them a long time and expect to still have enough juice to start.

Am I missing anything else? I assume if the fusible link was blown I wouldn't be getting anything from the batteries to the alternator.

Guess time to track down an alternator or have mine rebuilt. Tempted to do both so I will then have a backup.
 
Update - pulled the alternator tonight and going to the shop for rebuild tomorrow.

Oil in the vacuum pump - is that a bad thing or intended lubrication from the line on the block?
 
Oil is intended.
Open the pump and check the vanes for wear while you have easy access.
 
Roger that - just did some searching and found a post explaining the oil lines. Will look into those well. Thanks!
 
Update - had the alternator rebuilt at my local shop for $215. Much more reasonable than the prices I was seeing for new ones.

Got it installed and fired right up, but now have new issues....

At idle the same lights are one - diff lock, air filter, both turbo lights, and charge light. Above idle all the same lights flash.

At idle alternator is putting out 27 volts fairly consistently. Above idle alternator output bounces up and down between 20ish and 26 volts. Output does not jump in time with the lights flashing. The flashing is consistent.

I looked through the FSM and did not see flashing lights in the trouble shooting guide.

Before I had the alternator rebuilt I did slightly adjust the regulator adjusting arm. It wasn't much and I tried to adjust it back after it didn't make a difference. Theoretically this would adjust the set point for charging so wondering if this is connected to the flashing? But since it is charging I would assume the lights would be off, at least at idle. Hmm....
 
Hey @sved - I figured out the problem with my flashing lights was the regulator. I adjusted it and was able to get the lights to go off, but they still come on when I start it and stay on for a min or so and then turn off. At idle I am getting about 27 volts. Should I adjust it some more to 28 and see if that keeps the lights off? Also can I adjust the regulator with the engine running? I have been turning it off but seems like it would be easier to do while on and watching voltage instead of guessing.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom