Ok cheers, I went 45mm although I have a funny feeling mine may have been further back than most to start with.
Some 35s and a BJ74
- Thread starter prado t
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Ok cheers, I went 45mm although I have a funny feeling mine may have been further back than most to start with.
- Thread starter
- #42
Time to go and test those 35s .Let us know what happens.
Ok cheers, I went 45mm although I have a funny feeling mine may have been further back than most to start with.
I moved mine front axle 30mm forward and although the tie-rods don't hit they are so close they have sheared the grease boot on the ball joint. (straight ahead position they are closest)
I am confussed by what your tie rod ends are close to ? The tyre ? Leaf pack ?
so it is as simple as drilling the 2 holes 25-30mm where the leafs sit on your axle?
Does this affect anything on the truck, do you have to adjust anything else?
Does this affect anything on the truck, do you have to adjust anything else?
- Thread starter
- #47
Well, when moving the front axle 1" or 30mm , I have come across a couple of minor issues;
1. The drag link is very close to the tie-rod now, under articulation they do make contact.
2. Under compression bump or bottoming out the front end my front driveshaft has hit the tranny /transfercase cross member.
3. The larger tires will rub the steering arm at almost full steering lock.
AS FOR CORRECTING THESE ;
1. add 4degree castor shims
2. take an angle grinder and do some notching
3. dont turn sharp
Note: as for the HZJ 7* they have a notch on the crossmember for front driveshaft droop.
1. The drag link is very close to the tie-rod now, under articulation they do make contact.
2. Under compression bump or bottoming out the front end my front driveshaft has hit the tranny /transfercase cross member.
3. The larger tires will rub the steering arm at almost full steering lock.
AS FOR CORRECTING THESE ;
1. add 4degree castor shims
2. take an angle grinder and do some notching
3. dont turn sharp
Note: as for the HZJ 7* they have a notch on the crossmember for front driveshaft droop.
what about moving the axle forward for 255s?
is it worth it?
is it worth it?
- Thread starter
- #49
Nope!
I have the Goodyear MTR with Kevlar, which are bigger than all other 35's (35 1/4 " unloaded). I carry a lot of weight wheeling and so my rear wheels were bashing the sheet metal on hits ( I have 1 1/2 rear spacers and still I rub on the inside when aired down). I have since replaced the previous medium springs CS017RB with the heavy OME CS 005RA (the 60 series heavies which over-loads) which stiffened up the rear and this eliminated the rear tire bashing the sheet metal on the heavy hits. The OME CS005RA rear springs were 4 years old and were fairly flat.
On the front I added a leaf, which has almost eliminated the inside fender rubbing, except on the heaviest hits. No problem with the drive shaft hitting cross member. I have 2 1/2 degree castor correction, which is still not enough, so I will go 4 degree, which should further improve the tie-rod- drag link rubbing, which has sheared the grease boot. The front right tire still rub the steering box on a left full lock turn, which I had to adjust the steering stop.
I put on 4 Rancho 9000 shocks which are great to help dial in the springs when driving on different road surfaces. The adjusters are mounted low and should be mounted facing the spring pack, otherwise they get sheared off on rocks.
The 35's for me has been an expensive upgrade, because of the weight of the camping equipment I carry. So be prepared for unexpected issues if considering this option.
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Glenn - you're still alive after the long trip you just completed! 
How did the truck ride/drive/wheel with the new springs? Not too firm?
Looking forward to the trip reports and other details.
~John
How did the truck ride/drive/wheel with the new springs? Not too firm?
Looking forward to the trip reports and other details.
~John
Hi Aaron and Glenn, great looking trucks. Do you guys know if a 16x8 rim with a 3 1/4" back spacing and minus 20 off- set is available. I have 32-11.5x15 on 15x7 minus 20 Toyota alloys with no problems. I want to use 255-85x16 M/T on the 16's. Any advice ?.
The stock back spacing is 3.5 ", which is critical to clear the front caliper, but generally the closest aftermarket wheel you can get is 3.75" backspacing, which requires a 1/4 " or 6 mm spacer up front to push the wheel out to clear the caliper.
- Thread starter
- #54
It has been a couple of years since I have seen this post.
ALL OF THE PROBLEMS WITH THE 35"s HAVE BEEN SOLVED !
ALL OF THE PROBLEMS WITH THE 35"s HAVE BEEN SOLVED !
- Thread starter
- #55
No rubbing and No touching!
They are not problems - just adjustments! 
- Thread starter
- #58
It was pretty easy . I drove to EBI and gave Steve 500 bucks and said fix it !
The OME steering stabilizer bracket would grind into the tie rod under quite mild articulation.
I am not keen on Long Shackles for the front end because of physics (wander factor). The longer front shackles lifted the chassis up higher thus lifting the drag link away from the tie rod.
I didnt have to use caster shims to angle the tie rod forward because the pinion angle was /is almost perfect. Also I had some 3/4" steel blocks put in on top of the spring instead of lowering the bump stops. Isnt that a piss-off you get more suspention travel and then it gets taken away by adding bump stops
Times like this I sure miss the coil set-up the Prado had.
Now all I need is a clutch and I am ready for River Shiver.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #59
It has been a little over 2 Years since the COOPER STTs were put on . Now like most larger tires with a 3 ply sidewall they go a little square if the vehicle has been sitting in the below 10C weather.
Highway they are pretty quiet . On the trail they are great ! I still get surprised when you are plugging along on the trail and it goes from hard packed dirt to swamp and the Cruiser will lose its momentum for a couple of tire revos and then starts moving again . It is just Coopers way of saying time to put that foot down on the go pedal.
Would I purchase another 4 tires from Cooper ? Yes, when and If these STTs wear down.
Unfortunately last fall , I was on my way down to help a club build something . As soon as I got to the location , I got out and heard some hissing. Somebody had lost a box of nails . Who am I kidding ?
They still work well with 1 tire having 5 plugs and another with 4. Unfortunately I cant rotate them around anymore ( Couldnt balance them properly ) so they will stay on the back .
Highway they are pretty quiet . On the trail they are great ! I still get surprised when you are plugging along on the trail and it goes from hard packed dirt to swamp and the Cruiser will lose its momentum for a couple of tire revos and then starts moving again . It is just Coopers way of saying time to put that foot down on the go pedal.
Would I purchase another 4 tires from Cooper ? Yes, when and If these STTs wear down.
Unfortunately last fall , I was on my way down to help a club build something . As soon as I got to the location , I got out and heard some hissing. Somebody had lost a box of nails . Who am I kidding ?
They still work well with 1 tire having 5 plugs and another with 4. Unfortunately I cant rotate them around anymore ( Couldnt balance them properly ) so they will stay on the back .
Looks good, did you paint it? It seems like its grey in those pictures.
I guess Ill see you at the liver quiver again, I may need someone well equipped to tow my mall cruiser around out there! My brown 60 has gone to cruiser heaven.
I guess Ill see you at the liver quiver again, I may need someone well equipped to tow my mall cruiser around out there! My brown 60 has gone to cruiser heaven.
