Greasing your shafts?
SOLVED - Weird behavior / steering wobble (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter AnyMal
- Start date
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Karbon
SILVER Star
I guess I'm excluded since I have a LC, but I have an intermittent wobble as well, and I have 33" AT3's with 25 mm offset wheels. Some days the truck is perfectly smooth and I think that maybe I was being to sensitive before, but other days there is fairly intense wobble. I have only put about 5k on them in the past year so I haven't had the time to jump into the issue yet or try any fixes. I know the fronts are towards the max end of the positive camber range with my alignment, so between that and maybe a new balance I figure it won't be a big problem once I get around to it.
It's funny how it can be both comforting and concerning hearing of similar issues.
It's funny how it can be both comforting and concerning hearing of similar issues.
- Thread starter
- #23
yep, every 5k for 20-25k ish miles now. Even the one that plays hard to get.
Switching to mobil 1 synth next since my lucas is empty.
Always making sure not to pressurize slip yoke and always jounce, spin and clean up.
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks, im interested in what camber dialing does for you.
If im not mistaken, all LCs call for a slight positive to account for squat when aligned unloaded. im too lazy to get to my desk right now.
Just to confirm, youre on the same size Toyo A/T 3 right? What load range?
I see a lot of forums taking about shake googling. And like the DT guy said in the thickest country accent I’ve heard in a while “They shake, thats what Toy-yodas do sir”. Lol
Keep me posted and good luck!
Karbon
SILVER Star
I have P285/70R17 Toyo A/T 3's. I think at the time I couldn't get all 4 in LT so I decided to try the P-rated. I think I should have went with the LT but time will tell. There are a few other variables that I haven't checked yet so I can't say it is tire related in my case, however the intermittency similarity is interesting.
- Thread starter
- #26
Man, im sorry to do this to you but that tire is literal junk for our rigs.
Its too thin and compliant for this upsizing on our heavy trucks. They have endless grip but to run them smoothly and safely, you will need high PSI. What are you running them at? Nothing less than 36 was stable for me on those. At that point they ride just like the LT-C but the LT-C is much more robust having 3 ply (6 ply rated) sidewalls. They dont roll over in corners.
I would certainly try running a wheel/tire set from another rig. This would not be asking much from friends. Might cost you few beers and a few hours on a Saturday afternoon. If the issue goes away, then it points to your tires.
I dare to try a set of Michelin defender Ltx 285/70/17, they are absolutely sublime.
This is a balancing issue and common for larger tires. Nothing to do with suspension.
This is where using weights on the barrel of a smaller wheel to solve an imbalance at the tread can't always be perfect.
Few things I try to work to my advantage.
Some brands have proprietary processes to ensure better runout and balance. Michelin's, Toyo's and maybe some others sell this as part of their inherent qualities.
Running 20" wheels can also be an advantage to balancing especially with even larger 33s and 35s
Proper offset can also help the suspension control these dynamic forces.
This is where using weights on the barrel of a smaller wheel to solve an imbalance at the tread can't always be perfect.
Few things I try to work to my advantage.
Some brands have proprietary processes to ensure better runout and balance. Michelin's, Toyo's and maybe some others sell this as part of their inherent qualities.
Running 20" wheels can also be an advantage to balancing especially with even larger 33s and 35s
Proper offset can also help the suspension control these dynamic forces.
- Thread starter
- #33
SOLVED!
My hunch was correct.
I was dragging my rear axle... I just feel the road now, smooth at any speed. No shake or wobble in steering at all.
That and my recent brakes made this truck feel good again. Im finally happy to drive it again.
Correct your rear axle boys, very very few do it.
Both 34mm diameter but Ironman is at least twice as heavy. And of course, i didnt have a 26mm wrench. No problem, as i came prepared.
As best a shot i could get at how much shift i had. This will affect your driveline for sure. This was not even jounced yet or cycled.
It was still torqued against the jack stands rubber boot.
Ive found the newest and best alignment rack in my side of town and will visit soon to truly square it up.
No instructions, but couldn't be any more obvious to adjust.
Its not even perfect yet but has made a tremendous difference to the entire handling feel.
I also dont think i will correct the angle, since im not in neutral stroke of the rear anyway. Doesnt add up in my head.
Build thread coming soon as i just got my lift in the mail too!
Completely stock neighborhood 2016 LX in N for reference (this is with the truck running):
It is not parallel from factory.
My hunch was correct.
I was dragging my rear axle... I just feel the road now, smooth at any speed. No shake or wobble in steering at all.
That and my recent brakes made this truck feel good again. Im finally happy to drive it again.
Correct your rear axle boys, very very few do it.
Both 34mm diameter but Ironman is at least twice as heavy. And of course, i didnt have a 26mm wrench. No problem, as i came prepared.
As best a shot i could get at how much shift i had. This will affect your driveline for sure. This was not even jounced yet or cycled.
It was still torqued against the jack stands rubber boot.
Ive found the newest and best alignment rack in my side of town and will visit soon to truly square it up.
No instructions, but couldn't be any more obvious to adjust.
Its not even perfect yet but has made a tremendous difference to the entire handling feel.
I also dont think i will correct the angle, since im not in neutral stroke of the rear anyway. Doesnt add up in my head.
Build thread coming soon as i just got my lift in the mail too!
Completely stock neighborhood 2016 LX in N for reference (this is with the truck running):
It is not parallel from factory.
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Good find and nice work.
- Thread starter
- #35
UPDATE:
Austin - Houston round trip 65-85 mph most of the drive over not so good under construction highways over the weekend. No more shimmy!
The steering wobble is gone gone, and from this experience and experimentation can say that it was definitely a driveline issue. Its still not perfectly squared, but I will realign soon and get it true. Night and day between our last trip to Waco, it was undriveable.
I am very very pleased, however... The drive was still not perfect.
It seems as though my wheel and tire must keep going out of balance. I have a bounce that can be felt at highway speeds coming from the rear in the entire cabin that settles down around 90mph. This wasn’t there after the last balance but I’ve been chasing the balancing forever on these LTs. nothing but glass smooth under 60 though.
Now keep in mind I have been testing and bedding these new brakes rather hard after that last roadforce balance and I do brake quiet quickly (opposite to how I accelerate). I wish I had match marked the assembly as I believe I am either slipping the tire on the bead or wearing the round out of the tires by ”testing” their limits. Beware of shops over lubriating the bead by the way if you didn’t know about that...
It doesn’t resolve itself with more driving either. And yes I did lock up the rears once bedding the parking brake drum lol. That had to be done though prior to the ECU auto tensioning relearn. EPB trucks only. Aka 16+ LXs only. It is a good system though since it uses the g sensor to tension as needed after the calibration.
Two things come to mind:
My tires weigh more than twice as much as the wheels theyre on. Could be something that is easily thrown out of balance by tire wear and highly sensitive.
or maybe could just be due to the rear AHC pressure being too high and trunk unloaded and is not damping properly. The next mod will expose that.
Also rear stabilizer might be under too much tension. Rear is lifted at least 1” and no end link drop brackets to correct for that. I did of course torque at new position wheels on the ground after the lift, but the bushings have been cracked since I got the truck.
My runout dial also came in, so that will be checked wheels down to rotors and down to hubs while I have everything apart. I also will rebuild my caliper as I had found a tiny gash in one outer seal when I did that job. No leaks though at all, have monitored fluid level like a hawk since the install. Maybe will paint them black too, idk. Sticking caliper is ruled out.
New globes will be put on in a couple months or so, but I don’t think any are worn outside of the driver front. By that time, they will not be over pressurized because the collars and spacers will be on so they should function as factory intended and last like they normally would.
In other news, I’m fairly certain my +25 wheels wore out the front lower ball joints prematurely in the year I ran them without UCAs and poorly aligned. That should further tighten up the front end but I’m thinking of upgrading lowers now. It is common for the factory uppers to weep a bit on your spindle, but I’m not sure about the lowers. They are definitely leaking.
Comments and suggestions on any of this is appreciated.
I will mess with it till it’s perfect, and since I have modded, and don’t have my original wheels and tires, there’s not much hope in getting anything warrantied.
thanks in advance to any cruiser head veterans with suggestions or similar experiences.
Austin - Houston round trip 65-85 mph most of the drive over not so good under construction highways over the weekend. No more shimmy!
The steering wobble is gone gone, and from this experience and experimentation can say that it was definitely a driveline issue. Its still not perfectly squared, but I will realign soon and get it true. Night and day between our last trip to Waco, it was undriveable.
I am very very pleased, however... The drive was still not perfect.
It seems as though my wheel and tire must keep going out of balance. I have a bounce that can be felt at highway speeds coming from the rear in the entire cabin that settles down around 90mph. This wasn’t there after the last balance but I’ve been chasing the balancing forever on these LTs. nothing but glass smooth under 60 though.
Now keep in mind I have been testing and bedding these new brakes rather hard after that last roadforce balance and I do brake quiet quickly (opposite to how I accelerate). I wish I had match marked the assembly as I believe I am either slipping the tire on the bead or wearing the round out of the tires by ”testing” their limits. Beware of shops over lubriating the bead by the way if you didn’t know about that...
It doesn’t resolve itself with more driving either. And yes I did lock up the rears once bedding the parking brake drum lol. That had to be done though prior to the ECU auto tensioning relearn. EPB trucks only. Aka 16+ LXs only. It is a good system though since it uses the g sensor to tension as needed after the calibration.
Two things come to mind:
My tires weigh more than twice as much as the wheels theyre on. Could be something that is easily thrown out of balance by tire wear and highly sensitive.
or maybe could just be due to the rear AHC pressure being too high and trunk unloaded and is not damping properly. The next mod will expose that.
Also rear stabilizer might be under too much tension. Rear is lifted at least 1” and no end link drop brackets to correct for that. I did of course torque at new position wheels on the ground after the lift, but the bushings have been cracked since I got the truck.
My runout dial also came in, so that will be checked wheels down to rotors and down to hubs while I have everything apart. I also will rebuild my caliper as I had found a tiny gash in one outer seal when I did that job. No leaks though at all, have monitored fluid level like a hawk since the install. Maybe will paint them black too, idk. Sticking caliper is ruled out.
New globes will be put on in a couple months or so, but I don’t think any are worn outside of the driver front. By that time, they will not be over pressurized because the collars and spacers will be on so they should function as factory intended and last like they normally would.
In other news, I’m fairly certain my +25 wheels wore out the front lower ball joints prematurely in the year I ran them without UCAs and poorly aligned. That should further tighten up the front end but I’m thinking of upgrading lowers now. It is common for the factory uppers to weep a bit on your spindle, but I’m not sure about the lowers. They are definitely leaking.
Comments and suggestions on any of this is appreciated.
I will mess with it till it’s perfect, and since I have modded, and don’t have my original wheels and tires, there’s not much hope in getting anything warrantied.
thanks in advance to any cruiser head veterans with suggestions or similar experiences.
- Thread starter
- #36
I keep dreaming about just going to a less aggressive tire, but that’s hustling backwards. And my wheels could just be bad too, a thought I don’t like to entertain, considering what I paid for them.
The wheels are not a no name brand, and neither is the tire. And then I can’t in good faith sell them off if they are indeed bad.
Im keeping hope in the fitment for now. The wheels are good looking and 23.6 lbs, 2650 load and they don’t make anything that light anymore at method, close but not this light. This is poor mans BBS with no spacers. Or even poorer mans evo corsa with suboptimal offsets.
Edit: The staggered shoulder is still in play though when it come to road smoothness. I think KO2 would play more nicely in negative camber.
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- Thread starter
- #37
And all this makes want to just get the damn thing on 35’s with some 20x10s to further increase road stability. Tire pressure does duck all to this hopping btw.
Itll hop with 34 cold, up to 42. ( don’t try 42 lol).
Itll hop with 34 cold, up to 42. ( don’t try 42 lol).
TLC2013
SILVER Star
@AnyMal In regards to the lower ball joints weeping and showing signs of grease, I noticed this too on my Land Cruiser at 105,000miles. It seems to be more noticeable after heavy wheeling like in rock and super bumpy terrain. I prematurely changed mine out after seeing this, wasn’t necessary at all. The LBJs were still tight and didn’t need replacement. Lesson learned on my part.
- Thread starter
- #39
Good to know thank you, that job would be a pain. Just based on the 221 lb torque spec alone, trying to do that with no lift etc. And then of course not having anything much in terms of an upgraded joint and just refit oem.
I've got a pair of forged Iron Man UCAs in my cart thanks to you. JERK 
