softened cylinder walls after boring? (1 Viewer)

[SeaWheezl]

I am in the middle of a total engine rebuild. I have the block stripped, and am ready to take the main components to the machine shop tomorrow to have everything checked out. I'm pretty sure I will need to bore the block, as there are some marks from the piston skirts in a couple cylinders.
A buddy of mine with a 93 was talking to an import shop in town, and was told these engines do not do well after being bored, something about the hardness of the cylinder walls being removed and not lasting.
I had never heard or read this before. Anyone else heard this? All I had heard was that these were good for 2-3 rebuilds.

 

[NLXTACY]

Hahahahaha yeah ok. I guess I'll trade my over bore rebuild now before the walls collapse on itself.

 

[GarageRat]

That'd be an issue with the newer GT500s that have aluminum blocks with plasma sprayed bore liners 150 microns thick but not the brick s***house that is the iron 1FZ block. Boring the 1FZ the normal .5 mm (basically .020) or 1 mm (basically .040) over bore that standard replacement pistons are sold in is fine.

 

[SmokingRocks]

oh boy better off load my 4.6

 

[Rifleman]

I'll tell you what, that's one import shop YOU DON'T WANT doing any work on your engine. So cross them off your list, because they don't know what their talking about.

 

[LINUS]

It's a fancy forklift motor, no more.

With emissions crap added to satisfy mucky-mucks.

 

[SeaWheezl]

Well, these are exactly the responses I was expecting. I had pretty much the same one. I just wanted to throw it out there in case I had missed something.
Funny thing is, they are actually a pretty reputable shop. I guess they specialize more in stuff like Audi, Volkswagen and Honda cars though.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

sounds like a precursor to a failed rebuild. Yes, the factory assembled toyota motors do much better than your average enige mill rebuilders, but that's cause they're paying attention to clearances, not just grinding and assembling. these guys were just giving themselves an out from a warranty...KEEP SHOPPING.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Agree. Any shop that would let fly with a whopper lie like that should be crossed off your list. There are too many quality machine shops around to take that world class block to. Dont pick the also-rans and dont think going back and arguing your case will magically bring the shop up to capable levels. They are bottom feeders.

 

[half k cruiser]

I'll tell you what, that's one import shop YOU DON'T WANT doing any work on your engine. So cross them off your list, because they don't know what their talking about.

I double extra agree with this ^ post. Run, don't walk, from $hitbirds who tell you stuff like this. They are obviously either mistaken or selling you a load of crap to there own benefit. Either one is bad news for you. The 1FZ is nothing but a cast iron block that was slugged out at the Toyota factory. Its not like they were able to heat treat the cylinder walls or apply special coatings.

 

[SeaWheezl]

Just to clarify... This was not a machine shop, and not where I am taking my components, just a mechanics shop in town that works on imports and generally has a really good reputation. Not sure where they get this info though, as I've got this same response from everyone else I've asked.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

what EXACTLY are you asking them?

 

[SeaWheezl]

The import shop? My buddy just asked them about rebuilding the 1fz engines, and they told him they have not had good success with them, as the cylinder walls don't hold up after boring. I have not had that response from anyone else though. Everybody else I ask has the same response as this thread

 

[nuclearlemon]

well, mine seems to be holding up just fine. Robbie has done quite a few 4.6s and they all seem to be doing fine. i'll take robbies opinion over a ricer shops opinion any day. i mean heck, ricer shops can't even build a car that can take the train tracks at 40mph

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

sounds like that shop deals with alot of real stupid people...

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

A lot of late 80's onward Japanese vehicles and some early to mid 90's onward domestic manufacturers nitride coated certain internal parts after hardening. This is for surface hardening for longevity. Those parts, like the Crank and often the cam aren't wise to regrind because they don't tend to last nearly as long afterward. That's the reason older domestics don't make it more than about 70k between rebuilds. Given some will go more dependind upon the level of maintenance and how easy you are on them. As for cylinder liners, I'm not aware of any manufacturer nitriding cylinders or nikasiling back then. There were various Japanese manufactures using coated pistons though. Either way, I wouldn't concern myself with an overbore of the cylinders. Most reputable engine builders will warn you prior to boring if they know of any special crap like that.

 

[Malleus]

I wise man once said, "If you want the right answer to a question, post the wrong one on the internet, you'll get an immediate response".