@2001LC
Thanks so much for this procedure! I will try it this weekend. The pedal started feeling like this before bleeding, I noticed it about a month or so ago. I live down a very rough dirt road I would leave my house (brakes felt fine on start up) then drive about a mile to the main road. By the time I come to the stop sign the brake pedal travels much farther, if I pump it once its firm again. I can drive on regular roads for some time before noticing the pedal going somewhat soft again, even with further travel the brakes always perform as expected.
When I bled the brakes this past weekend I didnt really notice any air but I did notice 2 of the 4 valves had no covers on them (Is this a concern?)
As far as the Diff I got turned around and ended up on a pretty advanced trail at Rush Springs Ranch in MO. While trying to make it through (Couldnt go back because I had gone down a series of drops where I drug my rear bumper pretty well and there was no way I could clear the same drop with my front bumper.) So I was trying to crawl on some loose rock and was giving it some gas trying to be as cautious as I could (admittedly I became frustrated) The car then started making this loud grinding noise while giving it throttle and the wheels turned. It sounded like serious metal on metal not like a bad synchro but a pretty loud terrible sound. At that point I winched it to a flat spot on the trail removed the driveshaft and hubflanges and towed it home just in case after limping it down.
If you start the video at 6:10 you can hear it all go south.
For anyone who sees the video be nice I was an idiot that day. Would love to hear that its something besides the front diff but Im guessing thats it. (this whole video was just winching Tomas's fat but out of a gully.
The timing test, gives indication of air bubbles or leaks. If it passes you can assume no leaks.
Missing or bad brake bleeder caps, allow moisture in bleeder along with its seat area in caliper. I find the rear bleeder get "the worst of it". They sometimes are so corroded/rusted that orifice is plugged. The bleeder becomes pitting and must often be replaced. In really bad cases the caliper needs replacing, as seat is damaged.
When I'm bleeding, I remove any bleeders that I suspect are corrode and recondition them. I torque bleeder to factory spec of 8ft-lbf. If they weep I'l increase torque ~1ft-lbf at a time up to ~12ft-lbf in attempt to stop weeping. If by about 12ft-lbf they don't stop weeping, I'll replace them. If a new OEM bleeder also fails/weeps, I'll replace caliper. So a bad or missing $2 bleeder cap can take out a caliper.
Also keep in mind if reservoir not holding fluid level (read topping instructions embossed on reservoir), this indicates a leak. Frequent booster motor/pump running, without depressing brake peddle, may indicate a leak.
If timing test to spec and no leaks are found in/at bleeders, brake lines, calipers and/or master (these last two, can be very hard to see). Then, its likely master cylinder leaking internally. Rebuilding (seal kit) or replacing master takes care of this.
A few other possibilities that come to mind are accumulator or pressure switch failing.
Front diff.
If you inspected both axle, hub flanges, snap rings and CV's of front driveshafts, and all good. Then likely you did take out front diff. In which case draining diff gear lube through a screen, you'll likely find many large pieces of metal (a few is normal).
