Builds So now I have a BJ74...

[NM Frontier]

Finished up the other door panel today.

This one came out much cleaner then the larger one, even with fitting the handle.

Overall I'm stoked how they turned out. It really helped clean up the back. One day Ill do the side panels but for now they'll have to do.

 

[AlbertoSD]

Well done!!!

VERY VERY nice!

 

[Billyfj7312ht]

you can use a cup washer to cover larger holes and a countersunk or button socket screw. (12 or 14 gauge).
I like them because they stay self centered.
stainless steel,aluminium or nickle plated brass? as cheap as a standard washer.

I hope you don't mind me saying, the silicone you used for the holes in the floor should be non acidic or automotive seam sealer or it will encourage rust. you probably already know but I am only saying because it is an easy fix now if not.

 

[NM Frontier]

Good idea on the cup washers!

Yep the stuff I used was a metal friendly non acidic, but that is a good point to bring up, the last thing my rig needs is more rust.

 

[NM Frontier]

Long overdue post but I did get the table done for the rear door, it did not come out as clean as I had hoped. I had a little trouble getting the magnets to line up with the screw head and a little interference with the table sitting flush with the door. So the magnets look a little ghetto, but they keep the table up. Version 2 will be in the works.

You can see one magnet is recessed and the other is not, Doh!

But it does work and is very handy, just needs some refinements.

 

[NM Frontier]

The 80 was due for some new tires before the winter weather shows up and so did my wife's Tacoma (I know bad fleet mgmt) so after some serious musical tires the 74 ended up with the Toyos off of the 80. Though they were stating to loose some winter performance and were getting noisier they still have some decent tread left for trail duty. They should work fine till I get some new wheels and 255s one of these days.

I did notice a big difference over the 235 on the road. You can tell they are quite a bit taller and wider and heavier. I like the looks but not way it drives with the 285s. Thinking the 255s would be a good balance of size and road performance.

Still have the 235 spare...

 

[AlbertoSD]

I like how it looks with the 285!

 

[NM Frontier]

^ I agree it dose look mean with the 285 but not sure the auto would be happy with me if I tried to push them around in the summer time.

 

[NM Frontier]

They look much better in this pic then the poser shots above, did some cruising this weekend.

 

[NM Frontier]

Finally got around to getting the 74 ready for winter, of course it took till the freezing temps and first snow to show up but, better late then never they say. First off was some 5w40 and fresh filter. I ended up using Moble full syn due to the simple fact that is the only 5w40 diesel oil the local parts shop had, and I try to support the local guy instead of driving down the mountain to the vatozone. So that is what I went with but man that is spendy stuff!

Next up was the lower radiator hose heater I'v been putting off since the end of last winter. Now I know what you are thinking, how would a cruiser in southern New Mexico need a radiator heater? Well I'm at nearly 9,000ft and lows in the 20s are the norm for winter. Plus my cruiser has never started easy in the cold, the intake preheater dose not work, and is not readaly available, plus it is nice to have the colent warmed up when you jump in. So after reading a bunch of threads on here from the guys up north seems like the ZeroStart was the way to go. Install was easy just drain the radiator, and remove and splice in to the lower radiator hose.

Did all this yesterday and tried it out this morning, plugged it in for just two hours till the temp was right at 32 outside (I did a test start before the install yesterday a 32, to compare) and it fired right up with out even the slightest puff of smoke. So stoked on that! I am a bit concerned adding two more hose clamps to the system but it will be much easier on the engine in the long run.

 

[NM Frontier]

Here is a couple of bad pictures trying to show were I mounted the heater:

This is from the wheel well, basically on the straight run of the hose that parallels the fan shroud.

And looking under the hood from behind the headlight.

This is the best place that I could find that would clear the heater. Any lower and there is not a long enough straight run on the hose, any closer to the block and it hits the battery tray or the block its self. Not sure if it is the most ideal spot but it did meet all the location requirements in the ZeroStart instructions, and it seem to work just fine on my test run.

 

[ALEXY]

you can also look for a webasto. I start mine by text message or dash switch, 20-30 min later the coolant is heated to 70 deg, after that temperature the webasto shuts itself down.
the only problem is that the idle gets very low when u start the engine, but soon corrects itself.

 

[coldtaco]

I have one of those inline hose heaters, not a big fan. I wish I could use a block heater, but that would take a lot of time on my behalf since I would probably have to remove the fuel pump. I left my truck outside overnight in 0-5F temps and had it on in the morning for about 5hrs. It started like I was not plugged in. Mine is a 2H. Tomorrow I will use the Espar before I try starting it. Will see.

 

[NM Frontier]

I would love an Espar or Webesto but I just cant justifiy one with the amount of use/length of winter. I will be curious on how its performance is over the winter and in colder temps. The info that came with the heater was very specific on placement for optimal performance. A few more colder mornings and we'll see.

you can also look for a webasto. I start mine by text message or dash switch, 20-30 min later the coolant is heated to 70 deg, after that temperature the webasto shuts itself down.
the only problem is that the idle gets very low when u start the engine, but soon corrects itself.

Love that you can text your 70!

 

[coldtaco]

If I remember right, the 13B-T I had it had a block heater and it would always start at -30F to -40F after sitting at work for 8hrs or so plugged in. I didn't have a Espar or Webasto in that one.

 

[jblueridge]

Mine came to me with an add-on heater similar to yours. It chafed a hole in an ac line and all the refrigerant was lost.

Maybe check on the position after things settle.

 

[NM Frontier]

^ For sure I think I got every think in check with zip ties, but yea always paranoid at first. Your's must have been a bit lower then mine. I have got about an inch between the lines and the heater. What I am worried about is any major shift in things and it starts rubbing on the fan shroud.

 

[John Galt]

An Espar or Webasto is a waste of money unless plug-in preheating is not an option. My 13B-T has a lower rad hose heater, battery blankets, a battery blanket over the injectors, and a pad heater on the fuel heat exchanger. At zero F it likes about 6-8 hrs of pre-heat for a clean start-up. A timer on the pre-heat cord takes care of that. Adding premium petrol up to 10% also helps with cold starts.

 

[coldtaco]

An Espar or Webasto is a waste of money unless plug-in preheating is not an option. My 13B-T has a lower rad hose heater, battery blankets, a battery blanket over the injectors, and a pad heater on the fuel heat exchanger. At zero F it likes about 6-8 hrs of pre-heat for a clean start-up. A timer on the pre-heat cord takes care of that. Adding premium petrol up to 10% also helps with cold starts.

That's a lot of electric to run through a power cord?

 

[John Galt]

That's a lot of electric to run through a power cord?

NO