Builds So now I have a BJ74...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I purchased and use this 24v battery tender from amazon: Battery Tender 022-0158-1 Waterproof 24 Volt Power Tender Plus Battery Charger
It's around $78. The unit comes with wiring that can be attached to the battery system and unplugged from the battery tender. I wired the 'plug' end to the auxiliary power point (right side towards the front of the engine bay on a 70) so that the battery tender can be removed easily. Future plans are for a permanent install, but I'm not there yet... The tender seems to have worked well the one time I used it so far. Usually the batteries are disconnected when I park the 70 for an anticipated long time. However, the wifey moved it for me and left the batteries connected. So I used the tender overnight and the 70 started right up after about 4 months. I can't speak to longevity or durability. Good luck.
 
Just confirm that the battery tender is compatible with the AGM batteries if you went with new Optimas. There are also other AGM batteries out there that don't come with the Optima name or price. For the moment, I just have regular old batteries and they have worked fine for the last two years with the disconnects, even though the PO center tapped one (fixed now...).

The auxiliary power point is actually on the left side of the engine bay... Driver's side if you have a LHD. If I remember correctly, there are three posts within the power point- a ground, 24 VDC+, and ACC 24 VDC+. You'll need to clip the supplied ring terminals and install terminals that will fit within the power point. You can snake the wires up from the access hole in the bottom of the power point. Don't bother taking it completely apart as they are a bit fragile after all these years. A short pigtail is all you need.
 
Aircraft batteries?:)
 
Finally got the rad hoses and a few questionable coolant and heater lines replaced.
IMG_1420.JPG


And found this at my local NAPA
IMG_1421.JPG


Overall an easy task just the usual rusty hose clamps that had to be cut and replaced. I can finally relax on the highway with the old/getting scketchy hoses gone.
 
So after using the cruiser up here in the actual cold temperatures compared to the Cruces desert, I'v come to find the glow screen is not working. Or at least I don't think it is. Done the test out of the FSM and seems that the timer is working, the pre heat light stays on for 15 or so sec then goes off, you can also here it kick on and off.

The truck starts up eventually but takes the hand throttle/choke fully turned in. And when it does there is a hell of a cloud! Runs great after that.

Just takes the same to start it whether the light is on or it's cold but not enough to trip the water temp sensor.

Any one else have trouble with their's? Or any other diagnostic tips I may have missed?

Just looking for others input before I go about trying to track down a new one.
 
Have you verified that the grid is getting power with a multimeter? How about checking the resistance across the grid?
 
So the grid is not getting power. The relay next to the front battery is working and clicks on and off with the pre-heat light. Re did the timer test out of the FSM. Disconnected small wire from the grid per test and watched to see how long the light stayed on. Should be 14sec or so but mine didn't go off after 30sec.

Then could the timer be broken and not allowing power to the grid?

FYI- resistance across the terminals on the grid is .3-.4 but I did not disconect the leads from the terminal so may not be the correct way to read that.

Sorry for the mediocre diagnostics on this one but all my tools are still packed away in the storage as we are still waiting to move in to the new house. Right now I got a snowy driveway and my basic tool kit.
 
Well, like you my diagnostic skills are limited - in fact, we just reached them;)

It does sound to me that you may have found one of the issues (not getting power) and not having the FSM in front pf me, the resistance across the grid seems low ... But electrons are not my strong suite ...
 
I know this is a little unrelated to your problem but don't bother with the hand throttle on start up. The owners manual says to start the diesels with the throttle on the floor for a cold engine, and half depressed for a warm engine. That should make it start a little easier for ya.
 
I don't have a lot of experience cold starting my truck but have had good luck with 2 or 3 pumps of the pedal and 2 big twists of the hand throttle.
 
I didn't know it made a difference, wonder why?

You can tell I'm still a diesel noob!

Unlike some diesels toyotas have an actual throttle plate in the intake. On an inline injection pump 3b the fuel volume is controlled by manifold vacuum. Opening the throttle plate gives the least manifold vac and thus the most fuel. On a rotary pump 3b the fuel is controlled directly by throttle linkage. More throttle = more fuel for starting.

I don't have a lot of experience cold starting my truck but have had good luck with 2 or 3 pumps of the pedal and 2 big twists of the hand throttle.

Diesels don't have any accelerator pump jet like carbs do. Pumping the throttle shouldn't have any effect. In fact in most 3b's (ones with the inline pump) the throttle isn't even connected to the fuel system until the engine is turning over and there is manifold vac.
 
The 13B-T that NM Frontier has does not have a throttle plate like an inline pump 3B - the fuel is controlled by a mechanical linkage to the throttle pedal. It does have an intake shutter to shut it down.

@NM Frontier , if you'll send me your email via PM, I'll see if I can send you a pdf of the engine FSM ...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom