Builds So now I have a BJ74...

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Also going to get caught up on some maintenance stuff that needs done.

First up is the upper and lower radiator hoses, ToyoDiy shows them as the same for the 3B, Is this correct? Every thing I'v seen seems to confirm that, but just checking.
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Also need improve the back lighting for the dash, its pitiful, can barely see the gauges at night. Thinking LED on this one, anyone try this yet, still need to do some searching on others threads.

And last on my list for this round of work is top and bottom steering column covers in brown. All the holes are either cracked or stripped or just plain broke out. Makes a hell of a lot of racket on washboards. Looks like this may have to come from Yan since it is RHD specific, unless some one has one laying around:).
 
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Replaced the old generic manifold couplers that were starting to crack with proper sized silicon ones. Straight coupler on the turbo side and a "hump hose" on the intake side to deal with the small bend. Also cleaned and repainted "Turbo" on the manifold.

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Next up is radiator and heater hoses when I get home after this assignment.
 
Did Dan send you some OEM toyota red paint for that?! :)
 
Bringing this back up to the top...that's a great looking truck NM Frontier! Keep up the good work! I'm still tossing the idea around of getting 74 and your project doesn't help! LOL...nice truck and I can't wait to see what you do with it next.
 
Also need improve the back lighting for the dash, its pitiful, can barely see the gauges at night. Thinking LED on this one, anyone try this yet, still need to do some searching on others threads.

I found it a little tough searching for 24V dash lamps. There are two different sizes both named Miniature. Having the dead bulbs in hand to show parts people was invaluable. NAPA had them.

Installing the new bulbs without the green condom things made a huge difference.
 
Got home yesterday and went out to fire up the 74 and got nothing, not hardly a click. Voltage showed well under half on the gauge. Pulled out the voltmeter and both batteries were about 5.5v.

So today I got the batteries on a charger but still would not hold a charge enough to start the truck. I used my micro start and jumped it and it ran fine but the head lights were super dim.

Seems like the batts are toast. The truck sat for just about two and half weeks, and the batts are the Optima red tops that came with the truck when I got it last summer. Manufacture date is 1/14. Having a hard time believing they are both dead already.

Most resent electrical related mod was new head lights, wouldn't think that would effect anything.

The 24v to 12v converter runs off a solenoid to the ignitions so there should not have been any drain on the system.

Still got some investigating to do.
 
Red tops that are only 20 months old should definitely still be good. Sometimes Optimas need to be shocked if they've been drained so low. Put them on a high amp charger with a start feature. Or any auto parts store can also do it. Take them to any place that sells Optimas. Sounds like there's a current draw somewhere. Short in the headlight wiring that could've been tweaked when installing new lights? Put a good ammeter between the battery set and the truck while it's off, start pulling fuses and disconnecting stuff until the current draw drops.
 
Finally got to try and "shock" the batts, but no luck. Its been tough trying to work on this, been gone a bunch for work but that's slowed down so now I got some time to get to the bottom of this.

First up is new batts, then some diagnostics with the amp meter and see were that leads me.

What are you guys all using for batts?
 
I went with a pair of Interstates. Other than the NASCAR inspired graphics, I've been happy with them. One quick click and the engine comes to life.

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Interstate.

Better availability in the boondocks and good batteries.
 
So I'm going through and checking for any type of load or short on the batteries, with the truck off and a amp meter between the batts an the neg lead I'm showing .059 amps. Is that enough to cause the batts to drain like they did? Seems awful small to kill the batts. For reference with the headlights on its 6.69 amps.
 
I agree about clock & radio. I have a 1/2 amp mini 24-12V converter to power the radio memory. I don't know how much it actually draws tho.
 
Sorry for the two day delay in all these posts!

So I went through and pulled all the fuses and found the DOME dropped the draw from .059A to .037A doors closed or open, this was the only fuse to cause a measurable drop. Then disconnected the 24-12v and the. draw dropped to 0. Now the funny part is that the radio has memory so there should be a drop when I pull the CIG fuse (It runs most of the accessories in the dash; radio clock, cig, and the altimeter/temp pod.) but its only a .001 drop, figured it would be the cause for the rest of the draw not the 24-12v.


So amp draw is broken down:

CIG/Radio: .001
DOME: .021
24-12V: .037
TOTAL: .059

That still seems pretty small, having a hard time believing that low of draw killed the two Optimas after sitting for two weeks. Regardless some type of battery tender is in order to prevent this from happening again.

So now the questions:

Shouldn't the DOME be at 0 when the door is closed or the light is switched to off?

What kind of total draw are others seeing?

I know there are a few others with the Pyle 24-12 converter, are you guys seeing a similar draw?

Did this low of draw kill the Optimas? (I know almost impossible to answer!)

What kind of 24v battery tender do others use if any? Plug in? Solar?
 
So after looking though the FSM and testing the radio with other fuses pulled it seems the DOME fuse powers the radio also. I have to have both DOME and CIG fuses for the radio to come on. This makes the draw on the DOME fuse make a lot more sense, must be the radio memory.
 
I have the converter downstream of a relay that is triggered by the unfit ion switch. There is no draw when the ignition is off .... But there is also no 12V power available either
 

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