So, I got the new compressor wired, how to mount to the floor...

[Mtbcoach]

I did the wiring in the garage to add the 240v line for the compressor and also added an outlet for the welder near the garage door (for outside welding).

Now, I've got to mount this thing to the floor. I've got plans to sink some concrete anchors into the garage floor. I've been looking for some sort of isolator pads (aka, hockey pucks) but haven't been successful. And, I've also read on various other forums (yeah, too much research is dangerous) that many feel its not a good idea to not "hard mount" the compressors to the floor. Doing so can/will cause cracking o the tanks via the legs being so rigidly mounted.

There are those who believe that its best to just leave it on the delivery pallet and let it roam around the shop as it vibrates away, kind of like a Roomba. Just during the break-in period, I had to use some tie-downs to keep it from making its way out the garage door. I've got to bolt this thing down but want to keep the vibrations from tearing the legs off. Any ideas will be appreciated.

And, now I've got to decide to go with hard lines or just keep using hoses laying around the floor. Unfortunately, I watch too much TV and seeing these guys on the "garage" shows like to promote the "kits" for doing the lines. In as much as they look simple and easy, they run $140 for the basic kit and it won't cover everything.

Then, going with copper makes sense but I'll probably drop just as much with that but at least it will be "customized" to my needs. Just more work and a bit of sweating in some solder. Again, any suggestions or warnings will be appreciated.

Thanks...

 

[southerncruiser62]

Just a thought, but what about anchoring some eye bolts in the concrete floor and then use tie-down or ratchet straps to maintain it's location. That way it's not hard mounted to the floor and you also gain access to move it at any time. Fabric in the straps can give it some additional room to move and you can always re-tighten them at any time. Just thinking out loud.....

As for the lines, as nice as it sounds to have hard lines in various locations, for the time involved and them materials, I would just assume have lines on a reel and be able to take them away at any time, i.e. trail runs, hamom's, etc. also again with moving the machine if need be you wouldn't have to move or extend the hard lines.

 

[fourtrax]

Jerry, i have a hammer drill you can use to drill the hole for the anchor's if you need one. I would go to the friendly HVAC supply shop and get 4 isolator pads that they use for the outside (evaporator) coil. they are about 4" square about 1-1.5" thick, you can drill a hole in them and you are all set. i recommend anchoring that beast on some viberation pads.

 

[Mtbcoach]

Just a thought, but what about anchoring some eye bolts in the concrete floor and then use tie-down or ratchet straps to maintain it's location. That way it's not hard mounted to the floor and you also gain access to move it at any time. Fabric in the straps can give it some additional room to move and you can always re-tighten them at any time. Just thinking out loud.....

As for the lines, as nice as it sounds to have hard lines in various locations, for the time involved and them materials, I would just assume have lines on a reel and be able to take them away at any time, i.e. trail runs, hamom's, etc. also again with moving the machine if need be you wouldn't have to move or extend the hard lines.

Not a bad idea but I'm not sure I want to drag this thing around anywhere. Its a 60 gal, 240v/15a, 3.5 running HP unit that is supposed to push 10.2 cfm @ 90 psi with 135 max psi. I guess I could mount it in the trailer when I get it done...

Jerry, i have a hammer drill you can use to drill the hole for the anchor's if you need one. I would go to the friendly HVAC supply shop and get 4 isolator pads that they use for the outside (evaporator) coil. they are about 4" square about 1-1.5" thick, you can drill a hole in them and you are all set. i recommend anchoring that beast on some viberation pads.

Thanks, I may take you up on that. I've got a concrete drill bit and a decent drill but not a hammer drill. And, the suggestion to go to the HVAC supply shop makes sense now that you mention it. I hit the "big box" stores w/o success...

 

[$out]

we have 2 in my father-in-laws shop .. there mounted on the pallets they came on... i thinks it's kind of like rubber bushings on a motor. don't want to hard mount it.

 

[Mtbcoach]

we have 2 in my father-in-laws shop .. there mounted on the pallets they came on... i thinks it's kind of like rubber bushings on a motor. don't want to hard mount it.

Thanks for the feedback and I agree. I just don't want to wast the space the pallet takes up. I'll search around and see if I can locate some isolator pads to mount it to the floor.

I've left it on after the break-in to see how "tight" it is out of the factory. I didn't hear it cycle all night and it seemed to have held pressure at 135 psi all night. I hope I can keep the rest of the system as tight as it sits right now...

 

[mtweller]

Here's a cheap alternative: buy a polyurethane, or rubber, boat trailer roller and cut the thickness you want. It would already have a hole in the middle for your bolt and about $6 later you've got for isolaters. I used one for cheap body mounts when I redid my rear sill area.

West Marine: Super Roller Polyurethane Trailer Rollers & Bow Guards Product Display

Local boat stores and Agrisupply carry them, probably Northern Tool too.

Ramon

 

[krzyabncanuck]

I have left mine on the pallet now for about 4 years now and have never had it move on me at all.

I had mine hard lined for awhile, and did not like it. Now i am going to run the rubber hoses over to my filter setup and be done with it. Mainly because one day hopefully this year we will be moving.

 

[DirtNOOB]

I recommend mounting it to studs on top of "isolators" that kep the concreate from cracking due to vibration.

I have a hammer drill as well and you can use one to cut through the concrete really easily with the right bit. Drop some anchors in along with some epoxy and you're set.

I had mine mounted to the floor when I moved from AL, and the guy buying the house loved it so much he gave me cash so I'd leave the compressor. I had hard lines run along one wall of the garage, with one drop at each corner and one drop in the middle. I'd hook my air hose to the closest drop and have at it...

I blew the cash on furniture and now have a roll-around P.O.S. - Man, I miss that large compressor!!!

 

[Eskimo]

trim down the pallet and mount the pallet to the floor if you must.

Mine didn't move so much as an inch in the years it was in my garage, and it was just sitting on the pallet.

Don't forget to extend the tank drain out the front with a valve for easy, frequent draining

 

[Mtbcoach]

Sorry for the lack of follow-up on this thread.

I did find some large rubber "pucks" at the local ACE hardware. Drilled some holes in the concrete, drilled holes in the rubber pucks and bolted it to the concrete. Its secure but "loose" in that it is sitting on the rubber but the not compressing it, just snugged.

I sold the 25 year old, 12g IR for $50, so now I'm committed to the new set up...

 

[Flinny]

I put mine on the rubber pads that came with it. I never had a problem with stability until Fuser (the Chessie) decided to play with the air hose and the Compressor went down to the floor!