So experts do you think the problems my clutch?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Threads
26
Messages
113
Location
Port Angeles WA
So the other day I was parking and I pulled up to the curb to see how easy I could get over it nosed the wheels right up put her in first and started and nothing happend:eek: I let the clutch all the way out in first and gave her gas and she reved up but did not move ?????? WTH:bang: So I crawled under took off the clutch cover there was a little oil (maybe slow rear main Leak) but the fly wheel was hot as H*ll like I spit on it an it was like spitting on a frying pan. I have been driving and it drives fine, shifts fine. I think the clutch is going What do Pro's think ??? Please help.
 
Make sure the clutch fork is completely letting the clutch engage. Sounds like the cluch is slipping. If the cluch is completely engaged then you may have to replace it.
 
yep, its toast, I just did mine. I let it go to the point that I was losing 1000 rpm to slippage in 4th gear, my fly wheel was blue when it came out, if my wife hasn't sent it back to specter yet I might be able to post a pic of what the old smoked clutch looked like.
 
Clutch

Sure sounds like all the shot clutch's I've had. However just to be the devils advocate. Check that the adjustement is correct and the pressure plate is seating the clutch. And off course all the hook up's are indeed hooked up. Might just be out of adjustment , but I doubt it sure sounds from your description like a shot disc or failing pressure plate. Not a real hard fix however just messy and heavy parts. :D
 
No where near a pro, but make sure your linkage is adjusted correctly. Are you sure it was a curb and not a wall?
 
Time for a Centerforce clutch!!!:grinpimp:
 
your clutch is gone, just did mine...when you replace it, replace the flywheel also...it's $100 with a $55 core charge, it's about what you'll pay for a resurface, without the headache of finding a shop, yada yada, and get a good tranny jack. remove the pivot ball for the fork when reinstalling, and put the fork in last...good luck:beer:
 
first things first, did you get a good look at the clutch disc while you had the cover off? you should be able to see the clutch liner between the flywheel and pressure plate.

by any chance, did you shift the t-case into 4wd or 4wd low before attempting your curb climb? would it be possible that the t-case was'nt fully engaged in 4 low? could have been in neutral, would'nt be the first time this has happened.

if the clutch was worn out, it would be slipping in the higher gears first. it would also smell pretty badly.

last but not least, i'm not a big fan of centerforce clutches except for high performance applications. they're designed to be used/applied under heavy load at high torque and hp loads.

ask yourself this question: how long did the oem clutch last?

do you think the centerforce clutch will last that long?

another reason i don't like the centerforce units is that the clutch liner is a much harder material. so as the clutch wears, the flywheel gets worn down as well. that results in you having to replace the flywheel when the clutch needs to be replaced.

i like oem toyota and LUK clutches. i actually prefer LUK. the kit they supply includes the disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and pilot bearing. all the components are new, not remanufactured. they're also reasonably priced. LUK is the oem supplier for gm and dodge amongst others. my 07 dodge diesel has a LUK clutch in it......

i have installed and sold literally hundreds of clutches having worked in the transmission industry for 12 years, so my opinion is based on experience, not hear-say. i have yet to see a centerforce clutch last as long as an oem or LUK clutch.

i'll get off my soap-box now..........:rolleyes:
 
So I am thinking of going with the Man a fre kit what do you guys think? any links for the luk Kit? also orangefj45 I was in two low I climbed right over in 4 low
 
I bought Specter's HD disk, got the rest of the kit and resurfaced fly wheel from autozone.

got no complaints and I beat the dog snot out of my 60
 
Don't know what year FJ60 you have. There is an long threaded adjustment on the slave cylinder on the earlier ones as mentioned. The later ones do not really have an adjustment. Sometime in 1985 was the change over year.



X - 2 on the LUX Clutch.
 
I was in two low I climbed right over in 4 low

huh? could you explain that to me?

were you not able to get over it on two low?

did you then put it in 4 low and it went right over the obstacle?
 
So I am thinking of going with the Man a fre kit what do you guys think? any links for the luk Kit?



any of the better auto parts stores should be able to get a luk clutch kit for you. it's a common kit, used on all the cruisers with 2F engines.
 
Sorry for the comfusion I was in two wheel drive and could not get over the curb but in four it hoped right over I will try again today and post results.
 
so I did the "test" over again aka curb and same thing crawls right over in 4 low harder to get over in 4 hi and i can let the clutch out in 2hi and rv up and..... she doesnt climb over so as far as i can tell clutch is very close to going out but still drivable, for a short while longer. schucks has a flywheel for 60 bucks I plan on replacing mine unless its not needed. I dont know much about the mechanical history of the landcruiser so I assume an original flywheel heres a pic of her. 217000 miles, non original paint dont know how old at least 6 years from what the PO told me it was painted when he got it. stock except for rubber. bought her in June this year hope to have for many more.
IMG_1251.webp
IMG_1256.webp
 
Last edited:
starting to make more sense now.

that is the proper clutch ( ebay link ) and not a horrible price. next time you're at your local auto parts store, ask them for a quote on the LUK #16-006 kit; you never know.


got a pic of the obstacle you're trying to climb?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom