So, does one really need a 240V MIG?

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Get a dual voltage machine?

I'm also in the same situation. Everyone recommends getting a 220 machine, but I'm usually going between my place, my gf place, and my parents, and none of them have 220V wired. So I got a dual voltage machine (Maxstar 150) and just picked up a dual voltage plasma cutter, so that I can start working immediately.

It really depends on what you're planning on welding. I'm only doing sheetmetal and minor work right now, so it's fine for what i need it to do. I'm not 100% sure I'm going to be doing bigger stuff like frames and bumpers in the future anyway. I'd like to, but as always my plans exceed my ability and time. But I'm fortunate enough to have friends with bigger welders if I ever did need that capacity.

I figured I could keep waiting until the stars and moon are perfectly aligned, or I can just buy what I need for the work I need to do right now, then worry about upgrading in the future. Worst case I may end up spending a little more having to sell my stuff and upgrade, or on the other hand I might find out that 110V perfectly suitable and I didn't need to spend the extra money for a bigger welder. So far I haven't even come close to maxing out the capacity of my welder.

Also, don't forget you can make multiple passes on thicker material. Probably not something you'd want to do often, but it's always an option.
 
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well, I'd have to go about 100'. Plus the crawlspace is full of black widows surely :), I'd be more than $500 for sure then.

But if I'd have to spend $500 or more on conduits, a 7000W 240V generator at Costco for $900 or so would become pretty attractive -if usable with a welder- Ah! 2 new toys at the same time...! :D.



And, yes, the dual voltage seems like a very attractive proposition. Bus since there is always a catch, I imagine the $$ must be painful, no?
added: DVI about $1400, Passport about $1600...
 
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I found some good deals on craigslist. I ended up paying about $700 for an almost new Maxstar dual voltage Tig, just a little more than what the 220 migs were selling for. I'm pretty sure if I had bought a 220 machine, it'd be sitting in the garage for the next few years waiting for me to run the outlets. Most of the 110 machines are more expensvie than the 220V anyway, so if you're gonna do 110, you might as well get dual voltage.

If you're around Socal, you're welcome to come by and use the equipment. Sometimes I just sit around looking for things to cut or weld. When I first got my welder, any piece of metal within arms reach instantly got stuck together. Same thing when I got my plasma. I was a hammer in search of a nail. :D
 
I found some good deals on craigslist. I ended up paying about $700 for an almost new Maxstar dual voltage Tig, just a little more that what the 220 migs were running (around $500). I'm pretty sure if I had bought a 220 machine, it'd still be sitting in the garage waiting for me to run the outlets.

If you're around Socal, you're welcome to come on buy and use the equipment. Sometimes I just sit around looking for things to cut or weld. When I first got my welder, any piece of metal within arms reach instantly got stuck together. Same thing when I got my plasma. I was a hammer in search of a nail. :D


seems like with both a welder and a cutter, you could have fun for a while... :)
 
Hey E,

You can come by and compare my MM200 (220v) to my MM180(oops!!! I meant my mm135)(110v). They are both great machines but I will NEVER part with my 200, it is a total workhorse.


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
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I'm pretty sure there is at least 240 1 phase at the main box on the other side of the house, but no 240 outlet anywhere around the house so it would take serious conduit laying and digging -or a rather long extension- to get 240 to my garage.

Do you have a 220/240V clothes dryer in your laundry room?
 
E, are you familiar with my 40?

I built most of it with a 110V welder.

I do have a 220V machine now, and like it a heck of a lot more. But most that say a 110 cannot weld anything thicker than sheet metal, have not made one work.

HOWEVER, Get that damn big generator, hook it up to the house for the next time and get a hobart Handler 210 (best bang for the buck IMHO)
 
Millermatic 180s are 220V machines, I'm not sure what Dynosaur is talking about.

It's the smallest 220V machine that Miller makes and will do up to 5/16s in a single pass. I love mine, it's small enough to use and work with in a 2-car garage, but powerful enough for anything I'll need with automotive type fabrication. I used to have a Thunderbolt XL AC/DC 220V stick welder and miss the ease with which it welded 1/4-1/2", but I generally don't need to weld stuff that thick for vehicles.
 
You don't need to run underground cable in conduit here, we use 'direct burial' cable. Even then, at over 100' you'd probably be well over $500 just in wire. If you were to do that though, you'd be able to put in a sub-panel and have all the power available you could want. Might want to check into that.

-Spike
 
You don't need to run underground cable in conduit here, we use 'direct burial' cable. Even then, at over 100' you'd probably be well over $500 just in wire. If you were to do that though, you'd be able to put in a sub-panel and have all the power available you could want. Might want to check into that.

-Spike

That is of course dependent on the capacity of the main panel and the usage of the rest of the house.
 
Wow - do you really want to go through all this to get set up for a welder you don't really need?

1. You live in SoCal - correct?

2. You need a permit to do anything, I'm surprised they let you mow your own lawn but I digresss...

3. Do you have 200A+ service from the power company?

4. I'm not sure on the NEC allowing direct burial SE aluminum wire in a crawlspace = 1/0 copper to design on the safe side at lowest temp. @ full load.

5. Copper is falling everyday - expect to pay at least $1.35 - $1.75 per ft. for two conductors + neutral, prolly #4 ground although new code states ground has to be big enough to handle conductor amperage:confused:

6. You will need a licensed electrician + permit

7. 2"PVC conduit is around $.50/ft - have to have for THHN copper feeder

8. Add around $200 just for panel, breakers, plugs, extension cord, etc.

9. Are you married? To a woman? Do you ever want to have intercourse again?
 
California blows. Here we don't need a conduit or an electrician. I find it difficult to believe they require all underground cable to be in a conduit, but it is Cali, so I suppose they might. Must suck to be a power company there too.

Yeah, even here it's not a cheap job, but if you're planning on fabbing in your garage the sub panel is a smart thing to have. Providing, of course, that you have the capacity as freds40 mentioned above. If your home runs from your garage are 100' plus, you're probably losing voltage at high amp draw due to the long runs, which strains high load equipment- like welders, compressors, etc. A sub panel alleviates that with the larger wire home run.

-Spike
 
With pre-heat, beveled edges, flux core and good technique you can get away with a decent 110 machine but I'd highly recommend 220 for a couple of reasons.

1. Many 110 outlets are only 15 amp and at best 20 amps for the whole circuit. So if you run a Millermatic 140 at full blast, you need all 20 amps. Pull the trigger and if anything else is on that breaker it will pop. I've seen guys buy a 140 only to find out that there garage outlet would not handle it at full power. Running 220 is not much harder than running a 20 amp line into your garage because your existing power is not adequate. Many garages only have one or two outlets though so having a nice 20 amp unit for your welder will be useful for other 110 stuff too like your chop saw, etc.

2. It's easier for most hobby welders to kick out a nice looking, safe weld on thicker metal with a MM210 or similar.

I will say, that I've done a lot with 110 machines.

Another point is that the biggest migs like my old MM250 or the MM252 that I plan to buy next both work BETTER on the thinnest metal as they are more adjustable. It does not make sense, but often a bigger welder works better on both thicker and thinner metal. In the case of the new 252, it has some amazing pre and post flow ability as well as a spot timer and run in adjustments - all are awesome for sheet metal welding.

-Stumbaugh
 
My TIG 200 AC/DC trips the 30 AMP a fair bit on a dedicated circuit 1" from the panel. I am going to a 50AMP 220vac this week as my new TIG unit is a 250 AMP from Everlast and I know it will trip the breaker. Nice thing, I can lower the current so if I do not get the 50amp circuit in before it arraves, I will play at lower amps until then. I am lucky too, have an electrician friend (though I can do it myself), rather do it the legal way. Three kids and a wood house
 
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My TIG 200 AC/DC trips the 30 AMP a fair bit on a dedicated circuit 1" from the panel. I am going to a 50AMP 220vac this week as my new TIG unit is a 250 AMP from Everlast and I know it will trip the breaker. Nice thing, I can lower the current so if I do not get the 50amp circuit in before it arraves, I will play at lower amps until then. I am lucky too, have an electrician friend (though I can do it myself), rather do it the legal way. Three kids and a wood house :)

Spammer. You've been reported.
 
Spammer. You've been reported.

No smileys? I guess you might be serious. If so, he's a patient one, and might have some good info to add to the site.

-Spike
 
christo slee taught me one very valuable lesson when it comes to welders. he said i should never buy a cheap welder; all it will do is make me frustrated and i won't want to weld, therefor, i won't be able to weld.

he was completely correct. i already had a 100 ch welder and it was crap. spool wouldn't feed right and i had to use the outlet right next to the breaker box and even then i blew breakers. then, i won a lincoln 110v welder. could barely get a spark out of that puppy. bought a millermatic 175 and haven't looked back. i've welded the spring hangers on my 55, rewelded a section of frame back onto my 80 and welded the thinnest crappiest sheet metal in the world, the door jamb of my 55. no problems whatsoever.

i will never use 110 again!
 

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