Smoke on startup

[landtoy80]

Now that its warm I got smoke on startup after it sat about 20 hours with Rotella T syn 5w40.
No smoke when the motor is hot and if it sits for several hours. This is the first I have ever seen it smoke. I thought I had a non-smoking 80

I just changed the oil and now need to now change it again to either Rotella T 15w40 dino or 20w50 Chevron (if I can find it). I have used the Rotella syn for 7000 mi with no smoke.

Smoke on startup is from the valve seals, right?
If so can they be replaced without removing the head?
Does the swell sealer in oil work in valve seals? Should I leave the Rotella T syn in to see if it will swell the valve seals?

 

[Rainy Day FZJ]

CAn you clarify, did it just start smoking right after oil change? Does it make a large ploom, or just a small see thru cloud, what does it smell like? oil, or sweet like coolant? maybe smells like gas? don't break out the wrench yet without figuring out what it is.... Maybe valve seals, maybe leaky ijnectors, Headgasket?

 

[cruiserdan]

I would not attempt valve seals in-frame. Best to pull the head, and at a quarter million miles you may as well consider freshening up the whole motor.

 

[landtoy80]

Its a small light blue cloud. The startup has always smelled rich with gas before and after the new O2 sensor.
I justed changed the oil about a week ago. Its the same oil, Rotella T syn.
This is the first warm all night weather we have has this year. Maybe the syn 5W is too thin for my old motor.
I can't use M1 10w30 or 0w40 as I use it at a high rate when the rpm's are high (hi speed or working the motor having fun)
My thinking is my motor is getting to old for syn oil.

Auto RX, does that stuff say that it can help stop the smoking or just the leaks from the seals. Would it work on the valve seals?

I did add SeaFoam to the motor oil to clean out the carbon from the bad O2 sensor about a 1000 mi ago.

 

[Rainy Day FZJ]

I would never add any seal conditioner of any shape or form, once you add it you can never go back.

I suggest using a quality dino oil may be 15w 40 chevron delo or a 10w 40 castrol gtx. Think as the puff of smoke as a sing of a well driven cruiser. Volvo has it's high mileage club maybe you should starrt our own.

BTW my cruiser has a ver light puff of smoke sometimes smelling like gas on start up. Cant see it in rear view mirror, but if you quickly get out and loof you feel if some light haze os on your glasses, lasts 3-4 sec prob fuel injectors leaking, only 138k not your 200 somthn.

 

[landtoy80]

Does a leaking injector or extra fuel in the chamber cause smoke at startup?

I think that there is some type of seal conditioner or sweller in Rotella T syn because my oil pan slow flow leak quit when I swithced to Rotella T syn.
I was going to go back to Rotella T dino 15w40 (used it last year) but I thought my oil leaks would come back so I stayed with the syn.

Other than the little smoke, it has all the power it had when I got it new with 208k mi

The Seafoam is a cleaner. Could it cleaned off the varnish (I have a very varnished motor) or sludge build up that was on the valve seals and now oil runs down the valve stems?
Is there a way to test if the valve seals are leaking?

 

[RavenTai]

Excess fuel can cause smoke but it is generally sooty black, my cruiser smells very rich on cold start like yours but never smoke blue or black,

the blue smoke you describe is usually oil, smoke only after sitting for a wile is the classic valve tem seal symptom, run it until you can afford the price of parts and down time for at least a top end rebuild if not the whole engine and then get another 300K out of it, only harm in the mean time is a little more fouling,

Hows your compression? Has anybody seen 1FZ bearing failures besides from oil problems? Do you ever need to rework the bottom end? Have not heard anybody speak of this yet, a little smoke on startup is not bad for just shy of ¼ million miles

 

[landtank]

So Kurt you ran some sea foam in the truck?

 

[landtoy80]

I put SeaFoam not sea foam in the motor

I used it the 60 with great results. Had sutck rings. It took some time to work. I put it in the gas, oil and in the carb.
I had a tapping noise and low compression in one cylinder. I dumped it in the spark plug hole and let it sit over night. The compression came back and the tic tap went away.
It was strange, I was driving it after doing all the treatments. All of the sudden I had more power... I then sold the 60.

 

[landtoy80]

Now that summer is over its cold at night 40's and 50's and 60's and 70's in the day.
My smoke on startup has gone away.
I will see if it returns if/when (I know, Algore say is cold due to global warming???)when global warming returns

 

[landtoy80]

Cary, will your Easter Oil have any effect on the valve gides?
What is the valve gides made from?

 

[scottm]

I just noticed my wife's truck smoked when she started it. It's all Kurt's fault, now you have to find the fix!

 

[landtoy80]

Scott, is that with M1 20w50 oil?

Why is it when one guy has a problem, others will follow???

Its a good thing there was no IH8MUD when I got my 80 or others would have done a ground up resteration

 

[IdahoDoug]

0w-40 M1 and no startup smoke with 140k.

DougM

 

[scottm]

0w-40 M1 and no startup smoke with 140k.

DougM

Yeah, hers had a hard life I suspect. Mine was well treated and no smoke at around 140k. She's still got M1 5W30, I'm switching both over to M1 15W50.

 

[IdahoDoug]

50w, eh? I'll be interested to see how the 40 weight does on a particular pass with summer temps while towing the boat. It's the only place I see the temp needle climb a bit, and the oil pressure also drops 20% or so. I'll have to check the log to see what weight I was running at the time - I think 5W30.

DougM

 

[landtoy80]

The 80 finally got a 24hr+ break in service. Started it and no smoke.
It must of been something it eat that made it have bad gas and diarrhea.