109 lb-ft for steel wheels and 94-back alloys with conical steel inserts.
76 lb-ft for 95-up alloys with washer-type lug nuts.
76 lb-ft for 95-up alloys with washer-type lug nuts.
Small alternator pulley
- Thread starter Photoman
- Start date
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Well, RTFM! It's 103 N'm, not 103 ft/lbs. Any expected repercussions for torquing too high for 20k miles?
Well, RTFM! It's 103 N'm, not 103 ft/lbs. Any expected repercussions for torquing too high for 20k miles?
I second this question.
- Thread starter
- #64
This is what I did. With a stock 1993 with a 150 amp alternator with a small pulley at 1000 rpm with lights and accessories turned on, and with a 150 amp load applied, I measured 136.9 amps.
I did not do the stock pulley on the 150 amp alternator yet. I did the 2 pulley tests on the stock alternator. Keep in mind for each test I have to remove the alternator/s and change pulleys, brackets, and wiring and I rather like the way it is now.
Remember these test results can vary. Temperature and load can affect the results. The output is being regulated by the voltage regulator. When I load the battery for a test it draws the battery down just like using a winch. If the next test is tried before the battery is fully recharged the alternator is trying to bring the battery back up plus another load being applied etc.
Bill
I did not do the stock pulley on the 150 amp alternator yet. I did the 2 pulley tests on the stock alternator. Keep in mind for each test I have to remove the alternator/s and change pulleys, brackets, and wiring and I rather like the way it is now.
Remember these test results can vary. Temperature and load can affect the results. The output is being regulated by the voltage regulator. When I load the battery for a test it draws the battery down just like using a winch. If the next test is tried before the battery is fully recharged the alternator is trying to bring the battery back up plus another load being applied etc.
Bill
I think the actual number is not important. Because we are not testing the alternator.
We are testing the small pully effectiveness at low RPM
The theory is since we are at low rpm on the trail, a small pully is beneficial to us because it will provide more amp
Bill already proven that at higher rpm the amp levels off. So there should not be a major different between the small pully and the stock.
So all we need to do is to see what the stock is doing at idle 600 rpm and at say 1000 rpm after starting.
Calculate the percentage of increase between 600 rpm and 1000 rpm then compare that to a small pulley
I have have the 150amp alternator with still the stock pully. I also have a fluke that can measure amps.
I'll be happy to do the test above, or any other you guys want before I change to the small pulley.
My main motivation for the small pulley is easier belt replacement on the trail. but better amp is nice to have.
We are testing the small pully effectiveness at low RPM
The theory is since we are at low rpm on the trail, a small pully is beneficial to us because it will provide more amp
Bill already proven that at higher rpm the amp levels off. So there should not be a major different between the small pully and the stock.
So all we need to do is to see what the stock is doing at idle 600 rpm and at say 1000 rpm after starting.
Calculate the percentage of increase between 600 rpm and 1000 rpm then compare that to a small pulley
I have have the 150amp alternator with still the stock pully. I also have a fluke that can measure amps.
I'll be happy to do the test above, or any other you guys want before I change to the small pulley.
My main motivation for the small pulley is easier belt replacement on the trail. but better amp is nice to have.
Bill, let me start by saying ....THANK YOU.... for the work you have done in this area.
My $0.02 ..... there is sufficient information to conclude that the 150AMP has the ability to supply more AMPs at lower RPM than the stocker.. period. Not sure what more testing is going to prove. The key statement is "Ability to supply"
X2 what rhyary said.. Smaller pulley = easier belt change Bonus
I recieved my bracket and small pulley in the mail a couple of days ago and the quality is awesome. Thanks Bill! Great job putting this kit together! Looking foreward to the instal!
Guys, Dumbest question of the day 
, what would be the best way to measure the amp before/after installing the 150 amp alternator? Can I use the cigarette lighter connector/socket/hole after starting the truck? I have a good ole radio shack volt meter...
, what would be the best way to measure the amp before/after installing the 150 amp alternator? Can I use the cigarette lighter connector/socket/hole after starting the truck? I have a good ole radio shack volt meter...
- Thread starter
- #69
Thank you guys for the opportunity to help keep our interest in these cruisers alive.
What would be nice is to have a performance chart from Denso on this alternator. Good luck with that!
The picture is a typical GM alternator output chart. As can be seen alternator output is not linear. At the top end it flattens out. If we had such a chart and using this GM chart as an example we could then say at approx 2000 alternator rpm's the maximum possible output is 70 amps, at 4000 it is 100 amps. Therefor, we would then know that by using the smaller pulley how it affected the output.
What would be nice is to have a performance chart from Denso on this alternator. Good luck with that!
The picture is a typical GM alternator output chart. As can be seen alternator output is not linear. At the top end it flattens out. If we had such a chart and using this GM chart as an example we could then say at approx 2000 alternator rpm's the maximum possible output is 70 amps, at 4000 it is 100 amps. Therefor, we would then know that by using the smaller pulley how it affected the output.
- Thread starter
- #70
My $0.02 ..... there is sufficient information to conclude that the 150AMP has the ability to supply more AMPs at lower RPM than the stocker.. period. Not sure what more testing is going to prove. The key statement is "Ability to supply"
X2 what rhyary said.. Smaller pulley = easier belt change Bonus
I think Stu nailed it.
Guys, Dumbest question of the day
It is not a dumb question but is difficult to grasp why it is so hard to put numbers on the output. The voltage regulator changes the amp output depending on the demand (load) up to the maximum it can produce at a given rpm. For example I run my stock 1993 at idle which on mine is approx 670 rpm. The 150 amp alternator with small pulley puts out 14 amps with nothing electrical turned on (depending on the state of battery charge). When I turn the headlights on low beam the output goes up to 26 amps. High beam goes up to 35.3 amps. The rpm's have not changed but the voltage regulator has upped the output. With the heater fan on high, the rear defroster on, headlights on high, radio on etc the output jumps to 53.6 amps. In this case with a stock alternator this would leave 26.4 amps for other accessories like the wipers, raising the windows etc and for keeping the battery charged. When we add extra lights, seat heaters, inverters, amps, etc etc it cuts in to this overhead.
I hope this helps.
Bill
Thanks Bill; much appreciate it
finally photoman's small pulley installed.
in the pictures you can see how easy it is going to be to replace the belts with the 150amp and photoman bracket. that was my main motivation for the small pulley, although the extra oomph is welcomed at low rpm.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
in the pictures you can see how easy it is going to be to replace the belts with the 150amp and photoman bracket. that was my main motivation for the small pulley, although the extra oomph is welcomed at low rpm.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Last edited:
Bill, still waiting on that rig of the week write-up i requested about 6 years ago!! 
When you were working on dual snorkels.....
When you were working on dual snorkels.....
- Thread starter
- #74
Bill, still waiting on that rig of the week write-up i requested about 6 years ago!!
I was just putting the finishing touches on it but you startled me and now I have to start over.
I sorta did finish the dual snorkel though lol.
Nice job! Did you use the shorter adjusting bolt with the new pulley?
no Bill. we used the bolt that came with original bracket.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
So....
It has been roughly two weeks on the small pulley. I have a volt display in the cabin that I can switch between the two batteries to see voltage on each battery separately.
I have noticed that since the pulley been installed, with the exception of the first drive home after meeting Landtank, the voltage is pretty steady at 13.8V.
Before the small pulley the voltage has been 14.x and only after a long drive would stabilized on 13.8.
So my observation is that the small pulley is very helpful during my short drives at charging the batteries quickly and hence it is staying at 13.8 most of the time. My theory is that with the OEM pulley and my short drives, the batteries were on a constant drain until I get around to drive an hour of two.
Because I did not have a good solid baseline, and in order to test this theory, I put my truck on Battery tender for two days until the Battery tender was solid green and the batteries showed 12.6V (meaning the BT is on maintenance mode, not charging anymore).
Today I started to drive the truck and I will monitor what the voltage is doing in the next week.
As a side note, I think my almost 6 years old aux battery (31M) is shot as I frequently see it on 11.8V. To confirm I will also monitor it as I know now that it was fully charged on 12.6V as of this morning. Because it is cold out, the fridge does not really use the battery when it is left overnight or during the morning. So that will not be draining the battery like in the summer. So if the Aux batt goes down from 12.6, it can no longer maintain charge. I would say 6 years, I checked my "install 31M" thread to confirm the date, is not bad.
It has been roughly two weeks on the small pulley. I have a volt display in the cabin that I can switch between the two batteries to see voltage on each battery separately.
I have noticed that since the pulley been installed, with the exception of the first drive home after meeting Landtank, the voltage is pretty steady at 13.8V.
Before the small pulley the voltage has been 14.x and only after a long drive would stabilized on 13.8.
So my observation is that the small pulley is very helpful during my short drives at charging the batteries quickly and hence it is staying at 13.8 most of the time. My theory is that with the OEM pulley and my short drives, the batteries were on a constant drain until I get around to drive an hour of two.
Because I did not have a good solid baseline, and in order to test this theory, I put my truck on Battery tender for two days until the Battery tender was solid green and the batteries showed 12.6V (meaning the BT is on maintenance mode, not charging anymore).
Today I started to drive the truck and I will monitor what the voltage is doing in the next week.
As a side note, I think my almost 6 years old aux battery (31M) is shot as I frequently see it on 11.8V. To confirm I will also monitor it as I know now that it was fully charged on 12.6V as of this morning. Because it is cold out, the fridge does not really use the battery when it is left overnight or during the morning. So that will not be draining the battery like in the summer. So if the Aux batt goes down from 12.6, it can no longer maintain charge. I would say 6 years, I checked my "install 31M" thread to confirm the date
, is not bad.
ease of belt change alone is almost reason enough for me to get this pulley!
Bill,
Thanks for another fantastic product. I finally got around to installing the pulley on my truck. The pulley is a nice piece of art, right on par with the bracket from years ago. I put a small amount of grease on the radius of the nut to make sure it didn't gall the pulley going on and the 242 Loctite supplied. Just as easy to put in as before for the Sequoia 150A unit.
I will add that's it's a good idea to check your idler pulley because when tensioned the belts fully ride on it as shown below.
Easier to install belts? Maybe with the stock alternator but it's still a slight PITA with the Sequoia unit as its case limits movement.
Thanks for another fantastic product. I finally got around to installing the pulley on my truck. The pulley is a nice piece of art, right on par with the bracket from years ago. I put a small amount of grease on the radius of the nut to make sure it didn't gall the pulley going on and the 242 Loctite supplied. Just as easy to put in as before for the Sequoia 150A unit.
I will add that's it's a good idea to check your idler pulley because when tensioned the belts fully ride on it as shown below.
Easier to install belts? Maybe with the stock alternator but it's still a slight PITA with the Sequoia unit as its case limits movement.
- Thread starter
- #80
Thank you! I'm glad you got it installed. Something that may help a little bit on the belts is to remove the idler pulley (one bolt). Then reinstall it after the belts are on the alternator pulley but before tensioning the belts, or some just leave it off.
