Slow Acceleration

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Jun 4, 2011
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Logan, Utah
I am new to the 60 but it seams like my 60 is not accelerating as it should. I am not sure how to explain it. When I push the gas peddle the engine revs up and I accelerate but I would think the amount of power would follow the engine rev more closely then it does.

Let me know if I am up in the night on this. I have only owned the 60 for 3 weeks and have no maintenance records from the PO. It has 282k
 
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Logan, Utah
I am not certain. Sorry I am only working with common sense I am a newb when it come to fixing my own stuff. Is there a way to check this?

If I am slipping how do you fix it and how much should I expect it to cost?
 
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Mar 18, 2008
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Washington, UT. The Promised Land
Clutch slippage is more evident in higher gears. It's as if the tachometer runs away form the speedo. As you back out of the throttle you will feel it stop slipping, it sort of "sticks" at a particual RPM as engine speed drops. Should be pretty obvious. Another test is dropping the clutch in third gear; it should result in a stalled motor. Other than that, its a Cruiser with a tractor motor and Logan isn't exactly sea level.
 
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lehiguy that sounds like what I have your explanation of the tach running away from the speedo is like what I am having and it sticks when I let off the throttle some.

That said do I need to rebuild the clutch? How easy is this to do your self?

Thanks,
 

2mbb

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you should get a copy of the factory service manual. The procedure is detailed there. A clutch replacement requires separating the engine from the transmission. Most people remove the transmission and transfer case as a unit. Then the clutch, which is mounted to the fly wheel at the rear of the engine is exposed. I have done this job myself, but I have been working on cars for a few decades now and have appropriate tools and developed skills. I'm not saying that you can not do this job, but you need to be realistic about what you can do.
 
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you should get a copy of the factory service manual. The procedure is detailed there. A clutch replacement requires separating the engine from the transmission. Most people remove the transmission and transfer case as a unit. Then the clutch, which is mounted to the fly wheel at the rear of the engine is exposed. I have done this job myself, but I have been working on cars for a few decades now and have appropriate tools and developed skills. I'm not saying that you can not do this job, but you need to be realistic about what you can do.

I hear you I have just yet to find a reputable shop that knows the 2F engine in my area.

When I have the shop work on the clutch what else should have have them do to save some labor time later? I am thinking rear main seal? Insight would be nice.
 
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In the valley of the Great Salt Lake.
If you don't know that the rear main seal has been replaced, then I would do that as well while you have the transmission and the engine separated to replace the clutch. You will be installing a new pan gasket too of course.

Depending on what you mean by reputable shop, Proffitts Cruisers opened up a shop at the Miller Sports Park Racetrack out in Tooele. They won't be cheap, but you can be pretty sure that they will do good work.
 
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Ditto on the rear main. Just plan on that. Clutch jobs are not difficult unless the parts weigh hundreds of pounds... like Land Cruiser parts do. I've done tranny pulls quite a few times for various reasons. I found that my friend's ATV jack is the best thing I ever used for removing and installing transmissions in a Land Cruiser. If you do it, make sure you support the rear of the engine in some way or you will likely break your motor mounts.
 
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I would also put an oem clutch back in, I like the it the best. Have fly wheel reground.,rear seal and any leaks fixed on the transfer-trans. parts. Check the top gear shift seal also. MIke
 
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Logan, Utah
I know it is had to say for sure but I I think I found a shop close that I feel good about. They quoted me just over 400 in labor to the the rear main seal. Anyone willing to take a stab at how much extra it should cost to have them replace the clutch plate, Pan gasket, Check gear shift seal and regrind the flywheel?
 

Spike Strip

Let's Go Brandon !
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Kalifailure
Manuals in my sig line (Downloads)

And if you're gonna have a shop change the Rear Main Seal, you'd be foolish not to replace the clutch, if it's got any kind of long miles on it. Prolly add another $300 or so to the cost. Good clutch w/ flywheel resurface and associated parts.
 
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hmm did not really think it would correlate that closely but I know for a fact that my driver side rear brake is sticking or stuck not sure if it is the ebrake or not. I have not had a chance to look at it too much. Anyone have a pointer?
 
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hmm did not really think it would correlate that closely but I know for a fact that my driver side rear brake is sticking or stuck not sure if it is the ebrake or not. I have not had a chance to look at it too much. Anyone have a pointer?

I had the same problem of mine slipping, but i had just put a new clutch in about year ago, turned out i had a bad clutch slave cylinder, it still left the clutch partially engaged with the pedal released thought maybe i needed to adjust the linkage on the pedal but nothin would help so changed the slave and good to go. dont know if yours is the same problem but something to check.
 
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Got the break un-stuck tonight seams to have made a difference but I have only had a chance to drive it on surface streets.
 
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Oct 14, 2009
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NSW
And keep in mind, it'll always be slow. Even when it is well maintained.
When I haven't driven my 60 in a while, my first thought is: 'what is wrong with this engine?!'
But then I remember. ;)
 

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