Builds SLOW 71 (14 Viewers)
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- Thread starter
- #802
Now that the big meal is over, let's get to work. I know some of you have taken the rear heater apart, so now it's my turn. Any help would be appreciated.
I just disassembled the unit, to see how bad it was, not too bad. The fan will hardly spin on it's own, so maybe some deep cleaning on the motor is in order. How is the fan mounted on the shaft?
Definitely will need some bead blasting and powder coating.
That's all you're getting out of me, tonight
I just disassembled the unit, to see how bad it was, not too bad. The fan will hardly spin on it's own, so maybe some deep cleaning on the motor is in order. How is the fan mounted on the shaft?
Definitely will need some bead blasting and powder coating.
That's all you're getting out of me, tonight
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Pathfinder
I am the STIG
the rear motor is on my list. look forward to seeing how to rebuild. electrical motors are something I've never conquered.
- Thread starter
- #805
Chris,
You were right. I didn't see the set screw, for all the crud. I'll get into it more tomorrow, but anybody doing this, watch out for the thin washers in the housing. I have three plastic and one steel one. Hard to see in the second picture. Where the shaft goes through the housing.
Brushes look good, but the armature needs alittle cleaning.
You were right. I didn't see the set screw, for all the crud. I'll get into it more tomorrow, but anybody doing this, watch out for the thin washers in the housing. I have three plastic and one steel one. Hard to see in the second picture. Where the shaft goes through the housing.
Brushes look good, but the armature needs alittle cleaning.
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The problem I had with trying to "do it right" was how the housing is formed, preventing complete removal...or as I could see.
Be anxious to see if you figure out if it's worth removing to blast. I couldn't see a way to mask, and was concerned crap would accumulate inside.
I cleaned the housings with intent to paint directly over the old....kind of succumbing to mediocrity, but considering it will never be seen, I'm hoping I can still sleep at night. Hahaha.
Edited: I also chickened out pulling apart at the folded tabs on the top. They looked fragile and didn't want to break, but seeing how you've, once again, raised the bar, going to take my time and follow suit.
Be anxious to see if you figure out if it's worth removing to blast. I couldn't see a way to mask, and was concerned crap would accumulate inside.
I cleaned the housings with intent to paint directly over the old....kind of succumbing to mediocrity, but considering it will never be seen, I'm hoping I can still sleep at night. Hahaha.
Edited: I also chickened out pulling apart at the folded tabs on the top. They looked fragile and didn't want to break, but seeing how you've, once again, raised the bar, going to take my time and follow suit.
I love watching/listening to you guys obsess over weather it's worth it or not and literally going through every part of your rigs. Thanks for doing if and documenting it! When I grow up and get obsessive I will use all this knowledge...
simple is usually right... 1973 fj55
npulver
Metal Messager
Exactly what Napster said, im glad there is the few of you guys that are going piece by piece documenting everything for those following in your footsteps in the near future!
Btw, awesome work as usual Ron. Your giving me some ambition to tear apart my rear heater assembly as the blades occasionally hits the metal top plate, need to figure out whats going on there.
Btw, awesome work as usual Ron. Your giving me some ambition to tear apart my rear heater assembly as the blades occasionally hits the metal top plate, need to figure out whats going on there.
There are two piece rubber isolators at the three mounting points the motor attaches. On one of mine for the same thing, due to one of the rubber pieces having cracked and allowing the motor to move.
I've not found a suitable replacement isolator and need to one entire heater, but betting that's probably why yours occasionally chatters.
- Thread starter
- #810
I noticed the rubber mounts, on mine, were cracked and need replacing. I'm sure we will have to fab something for that, maybe grommets. I do have some firm neophrene, that a guy could cut some washer/mounts from.
Had found a few potential replacements in the neighbor's RC car parts bin, but haven't researched further. Thinking he said the were used on the servo to chassis attachment on the monster truck he has that does 90mph.
Ok, I've got a few questions after another thread perusal.
First, the rocker extension below the front fender. I see a benefit from a protection standpoint, but are there others I'm missing?
How do the fenders terminate at the joint?
I'm thinking you purchased this way, so the typical...
doesn't apply, so curious if you'd do it this way, again?
Other benefits beyond a full length slider?
Think the body will flex enough off road to be an issue?
Second,
What did you do here?
All I saw was a brief verbal description, then this pic, with no other pics showing the framing, or what the panel itself even is?
MOAR, Please!
Have been thinking of a 20-22 GA headliner with the cavity filled with some type of "foam", and the pics solidify desire, but before I think to hard about it, I ask myself....
So....
Last, for now....haha.
I don't think you've reached this point yet, but on the upper to lower fender joint, are you going to tack or drill and bolt it?
Off topic....
Now, I know you weren't ragging on us Okies, right?
- Thread starter
- #812
Chris,
The rockers were put on by Gary the PO. He got them from Lance at IPOR. The rockers are very thick and take the place of sliders. They extend up to the front wheel well. The front fenders have been cut and a lip bent into the bottom edge. I will drill and tap the rocker, so I can bolt down the fender.
I've often thought about adding sliders under the rockers, but like the stock look.
Edit: If this were going to be a more off road capable vehicle, it should have the sliders under the body, just for better protection, but I can't see any body flex issues the way it is. I'm not out to climb over big rocks, I'll go around.
When I put the two fender pieces together, I will use seam sealer between the halves and bolt together. Then final paint will be sprayed.
The roof is the outcome of my treatment...
One coat Zero Rust
Two coats LS sound deadener
Two coats LS Ceramic insulation
Four coats Cygnus White Monstaliner
At some point, I will make an alum. frame and roof support to put the cargo lights, etc. in it. I haven't given it very much thought, yet.
I'd like to use 1 1/4" square tubing on the frame and maybe 1"x3" tubing for the roof supports. They will all be welded together and would need to be bent to fit the contours of the roof.
If for some reason I would need more sound deadening, the idea was brought up to use solid panels, that could be bolted to the alum. frame.
I can't say positively, but I'm pretty sure Pablo was poking fun at you Okies.
The rockers were put on by Gary the PO. He got them from Lance at IPOR. The rockers are very thick and take the place of sliders. They extend up to the front wheel well. The front fenders have been cut and a lip bent into the bottom edge. I will drill and tap the rocker, so I can bolt down the fender.
I've often thought about adding sliders under the rockers, but like the stock look.
Edit: If this were going to be a more off road capable vehicle, it should have the sliders under the body, just for better protection, but I can't see any body flex issues the way it is. I'm not out to climb over big rocks, I'll go around.
When I put the two fender pieces together, I will use seam sealer between the halves and bolt together. Then final paint will be sprayed.
The roof is the outcome of my treatment...
One coat Zero Rust
Two coats LS sound deadener
Two coats LS Ceramic insulation
Four coats Cygnus White Monstaliner
At some point, I will make an alum. frame and roof support to put the cargo lights, etc. in it. I haven't given it very much thought, yet.
I'd like to use 1 1/4" square tubing on the frame and maybe 1"x3" tubing for the roof supports. They will all be welded together and would need to be bent to fit the contours of the roof.
If for some reason I would need more sound deadening, the idea was brought up to use solid panels, that could be bolted to the alum. frame.
I can't say positively, but I'm pretty sure Pablo was poking fun at you Okies.
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- Thread starter
- #813
The heater housing was pretty far gone with rust. I media blasted it and painted it with Zero Rust, maybe top coat with the Hammered Gray.
I still need to work on the electric motor, it must have gotten alot of water in it. I know my old 40's rear heater, got ruined from water damage.
When I took the wiper arms apart, to be plated and found cracks in the black plastic mount, that bolts to the body and connects the wipers. I shattered one, while disassembling it. So, I needed to come up with a fix to keep the plastic together, as I'm sure that part is long gone.
Here's one attempt, alum. plates on each side and then epoxy them all together when bolting up. I made some out of 16 ga. steel, also.
I still need to work on the electric motor, it must have gotten alot of water in it. I know my old 40's rear heater, got ruined from water damage.
When I took the wiper arms apart, to be plated and found cracks in the black plastic mount, that bolts to the body and connects the wipers. I shattered one, while disassembling it. So, I needed to come up with a fix to keep the plastic together, as I'm sure that part is long gone.
Here's one attempt, alum. plates on each side and then epoxy them all together when bolting up. I made some out of 16 ga. steel, also.
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- Thread starter
- #814
My fan housing is fairly beat and rusty inside, so I had to seperate the two pieces. They have little tabs around the top, to hold the two together, but one tab is spot welded together. I don't know why they did that, but you have to cut that tab, in order to seperate them.
I'll try to straighten the metal and paint, then weld that tab back.
The motor housing cleaned up good, but as Delancy said, really not worth removing the rivets, in the caps, in order to media blast. I wire wheeled the housings and plan to just paint. Good enough for me!
I will have the fan plated with the cadmium, should be fine.
I'll try to straighten the metal and paint, then weld that tab back.
The motor housing cleaned up good, but as Delancy said, really not worth removing the rivets, in the caps, in order to media blast. I wire wheeled the housings and plan to just paint. Good enough for me!
I will have the fan plated with the cadmium, should be fine.
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LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
exactly what I had planned to do with mine
...one step further...grease the bolts, bolt inner and outer plates around plastic bases, and fill in between the plates around the perimeter with expoy- maybe even spread a layer of the glue on the inside faces of the plates; thus putting most of the torque load on the plates and bolts. those plastic bits ARE brittle. FWIW, a late pig W/W regulator will bolt into a 73 cowl- NOT sure about the earlier ones and the later ones are still on shelves at SOR, so you're not SOL, FWIW. YMMV. HTH
- Thread starter
- #817
Lambcrusher,
If I had a little metal lathe, I'd make my own, but I don't, so yeah I'm epoxying it all together and call it good.
FWIW YMMV HTH....HUH?
If I had a little metal lathe, I'd make my own, but I don't, so yeah I'm epoxying it all together and call it good.
FWIW YMMV HTH....HUH?
FWIW YMMV HTH....HUH?
For What It's Worth
Your Methods May Vary
Hope This Helps
Few more:
LMFAO laughing my $@)
$ ass off IMHO in my honest opinion
IIRC if I recollect/remember correctly
Oh my gosh! I need to start writing these down so I can have a practice vocabulary sheet!
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
For What It's Worth
Your Methods and/or Model May Vary
Hope This Helps
Few more:
LMFAO laughing my $@)
IMHO in my honest opinion
IIRC if I recollect/remember correctly
fixed