Build SLOW 71
- Thread starter scrapdaddy
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- #842
Here's what I came up with on mounting the radiator. Made two plates that bolt to the stock rad. holes and incorporate holes for the new rad. and the overflow tank.
I made two alum. mounts that had to be welded to the rad., Man, they are proud of their work! I used rubber grommets, in the mounting holes and made some rubber strips that separate the radiator from the steel plate.
This is my first alum. radiator, so I hope the rubber mounts are enough to keep it from cracking. Let me know your opinion.
The steel plates will be powder coated, after the Holiday.
I made two alum. mounts that had to be welded to the rad., Man, they are proud of their work! I used rubber grommets, in the mounting holes and made some rubber strips that separate the radiator from the steel plate.
This is my first alum. radiator, so I hope the rubber mounts are enough to keep it from cracking. Let me know your opinion.
The steel plates will be powder coated, after the Holiday.
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- Thread starter
- #843
I reworked the seat frame, so the rear heater can fit. Talked to a company today, about making two lockable drawers that will mount under the seats. Should be a nice place to put small things.
Ran my vent lines up with nice little filters on the ends. If I get that deep in water, I'll have more to worry about.
Ran my vent lines up with nice little filters on the ends. If I get that deep in water, I'll have more to worry about.
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- Thread starter
- #846
Hey Bob,
Good question, as I don't know. I'm getting the Corbeau seats, but don't have the exact measurement. Looked at my other vehicle's seats and took a guess, that the frame will work.
Be my luck, I'll have to redo the brackets. There seems to be plenty of height, between the steering wheel and assumed height of seat.
I'll let you know!
Good question, as I don't know. I'm getting the Corbeau seats, but don't have the exact measurement. Looked at my other vehicle's seats and took a guess, that the frame will work.
Be my luck, I'll have to redo the brackets. There seems to be plenty of height, between the steering wheel and assumed height of seat.
I'll let you know!
- Thread starter
- #847
Chris,
If I had to make my own, I would use square tubing, for most of the frame. I like heavyduty sheet and it would depend on the setup, full bench frame or just two bucket frames.
I do like the ones Landcruiserman, made for his. More modern looking, race car look. I'm not sure they would go with a stock looking interior.
If I had to make my own, I would use square tubing, for most of the frame. I like heavyduty sheet and it would depend on the setup, full bench frame or just two bucket frames.
I do like the ones Landcruiserman, made for his. More modern looking, race car look. I'm not sure they would go with a stock looking interior.
Where did you purchase the breathers?
- Thread starter
- #849
Pablo,
I got those filters from Amazon. Called UniFilter. They have two different styles and four different sizes. Something I didn't know until after I bought.
http://www.amazon.com/Uni-Breather-Filter-Clamp-On-16in/dp/B000OO2Q18/?tag=ihco-20
I got those filters from Amazon. Called UniFilter. They have two different styles and four different sizes. Something I didn't know until after I bought.
http://www.amazon.com/Uni-Breather-Filter-Clamp-On-16in/dp/B000OO2Q18/?tag=ihco-20
Pablo, I got those filters from Amazon. Called UniFilter. They have two different styles and four different sizes. Something I didn't know until after I bought.
Thanks!
the bench is the frame...it mounts to the 2 boxed risers that Ron used as take-off points for his buckets...
I have been wanting to do drawers under my front seats as well. I was going to do an angle frame and skin it entirely in light sheet, but the more I think about it, some heavier sheet broken to make a long hat shape with a broken metal back and a couple of broken metal gussets/braces under the hat at the inner mounting locations of each seat- it will be lighter than angle skinned over, and cleaner IMO. Thinking about some nice 12 gauge steel or even 10 gauge aluminium. I picture a 1 1/2" - 2" flange at the rim ends of the "hat" and on the bottom lips of the inside seat braces, that would spread the weight out nicely on the floor pan- some rosette welds(steel) or a few big rivits/clekos(alloy) along the flanges to the floor pan, and done. This idea only works with later centered rear heaters, or with rear heater delets- as in my single cab. This would also require farming out the break work, but again, makes a cleaner product. IMO, buckets w/o boxes underneath is a waste of good projo mojo. Carry On Ron.
Merry Christmas you hacks
- Thread starter
- #854
Toyboy,
Lambcrusher is right, the bench seat has it's own frame.
Delancy,
The frame you posted is the one I bought from Landcruiserman. Here's a picture of his new ones, he made. Very cool looking. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8570482&postcount=394, I don't know how to post someone else's pictures.
Lambcrusher is right, the bench seat has it's own frame.
Delancy,
The frame you posted is the one I bought from Landcruiserman. Here's a picture of his new ones, he made. Very cool looking. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8570482&postcount=394, I don't know how to post someone else's pictures.
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i'm such a fan...
After seeing the rear heater rebuilds, I had to join the fan club. Took mine apart and cleaned and re-painted parts. Used a primer/paint in one called "dark steel" which I found to be the closest match if not quite as warm a silver. Took the motor apart and cleaned it, then painted the housing. Even stuck the Nippon Denso sticker back on. Too. Much. Fun.
H
After seeing the rear heater rebuilds, I had to join the fan club. Took mine apart and cleaned and re-painted parts. Used a primer/paint in one called "dark steel" which I found to be the closest match if not quite as warm a silver. Took the motor apart and cleaned it, then painted the housing. Even stuck the Nippon Denso sticker back on. Too. Much. Fun.
H
- Thread starter
- #856
Good Job!
One off the list, 100 more to go.
One off the list, 100 more to go.
- Thread starter
- #857
I wanted to pass this along, if anyone is working on their windshield washer pump. It took me two tries, but I found a good tubing, to replace the dried out stuff I had.
McMaster-Carr # 51825K43 Chemical resistant PVC tubing, 4mm ID and 6mm OD. 25', $14 shipped to the door.
Bouncing around some more, decided to make my own drawers for under the seats. Bought these sliders from Ovis, 10' stainless steel, ball bearings with a detent that holds the drawer closed, nice. They're rated at 92LBs. so, it should hold my 40 with room to spare.
Still need to buy some heavier sheet metal and the locks, I think it will work very well.
The seats are on the way, then I'll know where to mount the seat belts.
McMaster-Carr # 51825K43 Chemical resistant PVC tubing, 4mm ID and 6mm OD. 25', $14 shipped to the door.
Bouncing around some more, decided to make my own drawers for under the seats. Bought these sliders from Ovis, 10' stainless steel, ball bearings with a detent that holds the drawer closed, nice. They're rated at 92LBs. so, it should hold my 40 with room to spare.
Still need to buy some heavier sheet metal and the locks, I think it will work very well.
The seats are on the way, then I'll know where to mount the seat belts.
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Good to know! I wonder if they sell a little bit bigger line that could be used for bleeding brakes. I'll dig around a little.
Can find airline tubing by the aquariums at Walmart that's tight enough to fit and cheap enough to discard after a single use without guilt.
- Thread starter
- #860
Pablo,
They carry a ton of tubing, every size you would need. Most is 25' min., though.