Sliders (1 Viewer)

[spressomon]

Would you mind if I did a spin-off with your design? My wife would like the step now that I have the lift on. I enjoy seeing her legs getting in and out though!
Are you going to TIG weld it? That’s what I will do, and I’ll try to incorporate the factory mud flap.
Dean

Ditto Hoser's wisecrack No TIG...although I would if I could. I have a Millermatic 175 220V MIG. Design away

 

[DMX84]

Enjoy!

 

[spressomon]

Forget the sliders...leave 'em off!

 

[hoser]

Wow! Yeah, maybe even lift the LC a bit more!! I dig her Chanel sunglasses too.

 

[Jukelemon]

Damn dude, if that is your wife, you have done very well AND I would get the biggest lift possible

 

[ff347]

Spressomon, how long are you going to make the sliders? (Congrats on the progress and may I say congrats to you also Dmx84!) I happen to be inspired now and started the layout process yesterday. How far from the body to the top of your design?

 

[calamaridog]

Line X top of sliders

I am thinking about Line-Xing the tops...any thoughts one way or the other?

I think this would be a good idea. I would primer, paint, then take them to the Line-X shop for the tops.

 

[spressomon]

Spressomon, how long are you going to make the sliders? (Congrats on the progress and may I say congrats to you also Dmx84!) I happen to be inspired now and started the layout process yesterday. How far from the body to the top of your design?

They are 72" long. Got one completed today (minus grinding, paint & Line-X). Started on the second one...this one should go faster. I have about 5/8" between the top of the slider and the lower lip of the rocker panel. This dimension will be reduced a little by the thickness of the Line-X. FYI: The slider bottom surface lines up with the bottom of the frame rails.

 

[DMX84]

Looks nice, can you describe how you did the mounts and maybe take some pictures?
I wouldn’t bother painting it; rather opt for the powder coat. Then do the LineX or Rhino Liner. There is a company that has lifetime warranty on fading and it’s not the ones I just mentioned. I can't remember what the name is though but nobody else has this warranty. The non-slip coating looks good for a while then they start to fade & looking dry etc. This one company claimed that there’s did not do that & might be worth looking into.

Dean

 

[calamaridog]

I wouldn't bother powder coating it. You will just end up scratching the heck out of the powder coat. That is why I paint them and do touch up yearly.

 

[DMX84]

I see where you are coming from. Powder coat can be touched up with a close matching paint, and it won’t chip like paint. Either way it’s going to look good. Powder coat is just a much stronger product with better adhesion properties.
Dean

 

[spressomon]

Looks nice, can you describe how you did the mounts and maybe take some pictures?
I wouldn’t bother painting it; rather opt for the powder coat. Then do the LineX or Rhino Liner. There is a company that has lifetime warranty on fading and it’s not the ones I just mentioned. I can't remember what the name is though but nobody else has this warranty. The non-slip coating looks good for a while then they start to fade & looking dry etc. This one company claimed that there’s did not do that & might be worth looking into.

Dean

If you remember what product it is let me know please; otherwise I'll need to get them Line-X'd. I will do a full post of the process, including the frame brackets and plates hopefully before vacation on Thursday.

 

[DMX84]

After looking in the yellow pages I think it just might be Line-X, but not sure. I went to the web site and they mention that warranty varies form dealer to dealer. And they all seem to have UV protection, and probably most companies have improved there stuff to help with this problem. I remember talking to other liner companies and mentioning about one having lifetime warranty for fading. They all said there is not any. Maybe this was a local deal to get people to buy there stuff? Hope this helps.
Dean

 

[calamaridog]

As far as the liner materials, I have found Line-X to be superior to Rhino, Superliner, and one other no-name I've tried. Line-X is also more tacky than Rhino and provides better traction. I believe it will work nicely on the tops.

Dean,

I just don't justify the extra cost to powdercoat sliders when I'm planning on abusing them. That's why I stick with paint. Touch up with semi-gloss every six months and they will look great

 

[spressomon]

I still need to grind the welds, paint and Line-X but they're done and they fit great. Turned out better than I thought they might. As soon as I find a free web-site to post all the pics and write up I'll put the link up (any suggestions on a site?).

 

[cc93cruiser]

tinypic.om spressoman!

 

[hoser]

Nice job! Please let me know if you are able to make an extra set.

 

[sleeoffroad]

You need a gusset between the bottom of the arm and the mounting plate. It will pull the plate away from the frame if you put the truck down on the slider. Also if why not Line-x the whole thing, except for the frame side of the mounts? You will find that the cost of Line-X will go up the more they have to mask. They would probably charge the same to line-x the whole thing vs masking and only doing the top.


I would get it sand blasted, then Line-X'ed. Here in Colorado the bottom of the sliders do not fair so well in winter with the sand being thrown up from the tires.

 

[ff347]

spressomon, have you considered an industrial enamel? the only reason i ask is that it allows you to touch up as you need/want and the cost is not to bad. that is the avenue i was going on mine, since rust-oleum "machine tool grey" almost passes as river rock. i guess it could be a mistake, but a good glass bead blast could take it all off if it sucks! you are way ahead though and i am sure you want to get done and may i say they look great!
got my tubing cut yesterday but can't decide on what to do w/the outer tube round or square.

 

[spressomon]

You need a gusset between the bottom of the arm and the mounting plate. It will pull the plate away from the frame if you put the truck down on the slider. Also if why not Line-x the whole thing, except for the frame side of the mounts? You will find that the cost of Line-X will go up the more they have to mask. They would probably charge the same to line-x the whole thing vs masking and only doing the top.


I would get it sand blasted, then Line-X'ed. Here in Colorado the bottom of the sliders do not fair so well in winter with the sand being thrown up from the tires.

I really appreciate your advice Christo; especially since this is one less slider order for you (although you will get my bumpers, lift, drawer orders, drop kit when it comes time)!!! I will add the gussets. I thought about Line-X'g the whole thing but wanted the ability to be able to touch-up the sides/bottoms...

Hoser: Your's is an 80..If you have a 100 PM me..

ff347: Industrial enamel? I'll check it out.


It was a fun project. With only a little bandsaw in my 'shop' it took about twice as long mainly because it takes so much time to keep changing the vise for the various angles. And wow has the price of steel gone up! And not just for the sliders....jeeeesh the gr 8 1/2" NF fine bolts, washers and nuts were $60!!!

I'll get this thing written up and posted...somewhere. cc93cruiser...I will check out tinypic.com...thanks.