Sliders

spressomon

glutton
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I'm going to make sliders for the LC this weekend. I think I am going to use 2x6x3/16" box so that I end up with a little bit of a step as well. I am thinking about using 4-struts (2x3x1/8") to the frame where they will bolt to frame plates. Question: Do you think 4 struts is overkill or would 3 struts be adequate?

I will pic document the construction and process hopefully for a full post next week.
 
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My friend, I am so in to funding a set for my 100. Would that be something you would be interested in i.e. selling another set after you complete your set?

Thx
 

spressomon

glutton
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Jukelemon said:
My friend, I am so in to funding a set for my 100. Would that be something you would be interested in i.e. selling another set after you complete your set?

Thx
Yea...let me see how the first set turns out and I will let you know. I am going to make template/pattern so subsequent sets would be faster, etc.
 
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how thick of steel are you using

i use 1/8, holds up pretty well.
line-x sounds good for the top.
don't forget to post those pics! :cheers:
 

spressomon

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1/8" in the 2x6 box is too thin so I am going to use 3/16" wall. If I were using 2x4 box then I think 1/8" would be fine. I did have a thought for making the 2x6 out of 1/8" wall...drilling a series of 1-1/2" to 2" holes on each slider then welding in a 1-1/2" to 2" piece of 1/8" wall pipe...for drainage, extra rigidity and overall lighter than 3/16" wall...and probably stronger overall. But that is going to mean taking the sliders to a machine shop to get them drilled out....maybe another day ;)
 

spressomon

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I was originally going to buy sliders but since I couldn't find any I really liked...and I have all the equipment to make them...and I don't have the kachinga to buy them even if I liked the design...well might as well make 'em!
 
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spressomon said:
I was originally going to buy sliders but since I couldn't find any I really liked...and I have all the equipment to make them...and I don't have the kachinga to buy them even if I liked the design...well might as well make 'em!
That is the spirit.

Thanks for the effort.
 

spressomon

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Here's an 'under construction' pic of the first slider...two of the three struts and frame plates are tacked and installed with one more strut/plate to go; then I can do the final welds. Will cap the ends, Line-X the top, etc.

These will work also as a high step. I ended up using .120 thick 2x6...I think they'll be fine for how I will use them.
slider.jpg
 

spressomon

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Yea they'll get capped. I want to to do some different cuts on the ends, like radius the top outside of the front...but there is only so much you can do with a little 4x6 light duty bandsaw. But boy it's fun to dream what could be done with some real (read: big and expensive) tools! After I get both sliders made and finished I post up the pictoral process, etc.

Can't believe how much steel prices have gone up! All the metal for these sliders was $150.00. After you buy good grade 8 bolts, primer, paint or powder coat, then Line-X the tops, a little wear and tear on the tools, etc., it's easy to see why the likes of Christo get close to 8-bills for sliders! No regrets though on making them...it's fun to me.
 

sleeoffroad

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On your metal thickness, you should be ok with 120 wall. However it can dent if you wheel it hard, but then we all know 100's can not wheel hard. We use 3/16" since we found that with 1/8" once you start welding the legs on, the tube bends like a banana due to the heat being only on the one side. Be carefull, it happens pretty easy, especially if you tack them on the truck and then take them off to do the final welding.
 

spressomon

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Thanks Christo for your advice. I had actually planned to use 3/16" but the vendor didn't stock it...only the .120 in 2x6. I am aware of the warp factor...I will try to figure out a sequence to minimize the distortion...lots of sequential welds and refitting...you know the drill ;)

No doubt if I was planning to scrape these things on a regular basis the 3/16" would me mandatory. I was also thinking about, to make the .120 a bit more rigid and reinforced, drilling 1-1/2" to 2" holes (about 5 running the length of the slider) right down the middle of the slider and welding in a round tube to connect top and bottom. But the idea of using a hole saw to cut these donut holes (20 holes to cut for 2-sliders) made be cringe...gets back to the dream of having more/better tools.
 
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Would you mind if I did a spin-off with your design? My wife would like the step now that I have the lift on. I enjoy seeing her legs getting in and out though!
Are you going to TIG weld it? That’s what I will do, and I’ll try to incorporate the factory mud flap.
Dean
 
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