Slider Options

[spressomon]

Ok, so you think the DOM tubing isn't strong enough? I'm not an expert by any means, so your opinions are valued. I also noticed that Adam offers 3/16 thickness tubing on the 80 series sliders, so that may be an option as well. Either way, these things will be half the price of the "other" guys, a steal in my opinion. I could definitely put the $$$ towards a rear bumper.

They're pricing isn't much above what you'd pay for DOM tubing! Not sure how they're doing it but I'm not a competitor so it doesn't matter . Regarding cost: Good powder coating (not the one coat el cheapo jobs) with primer/base, color and top coat will run about $200 for a 1-unit retail price. I didn't save anything really by making them myself except I already have the tools including welder and I wanted something no one offered regarding design. However there are more fab shops offering 100-Series stuff today that didn't exist even a couple years ago.

And you have to compare apples to apples on all this stuff. That doesn't mean you can't go with raw coat, etc. But, in defense of what guys like Slee are offering, his are TTBOMK phosphate washed/prepped with a real powder coat atop. I had a 'luxe PC job done on my sliders and I'm glad I did as they've held up incredibly well! Also, not sure about his sliders, but on his bumpers for instance he uses a stronger grade of steel. Again I'm not here to tell you how to spend your hard earned cash but to enlighten you on comparisons between different products on the market place. Most often the more expensive products are not just padded up with pure profit. Sometimes we actually do get what we pay for

I'd personally think twice or thrice about weld on sliders for a 100. You never know when you might need to remove them or change them. And if you are thinking about a body lift you, assuming you're not fabbing them yourself, might ask them if they will build the sliders/mounts so they tuck up the thickness of your body lift...every little thing helps on our rather low slung (relative) rigs; not a big deal I suppose unless you're anal retentive like me

.125 wall on 1.75 and two mounting struts would probably not be enough strength for some of the trails that seem to find there way under my rig . I have at least one 80 buddy with the same wall and OD but he's at 4" lift whereas I'm at ~2.5" lift and typically using my sliders considerably more than he does on a given trail.

 

[jgray]

tsototh - weld on sliders and sliders that come unfinished (bare steel) are certainly going to be less expensive than a bolt on fully finished option with hardware, etc. I looked at the 4xinnovations site and it looks like his most expensive sliders for the 80 series are made with heavier material. I would let them know the 100 series weigh more than the 80's; 100's will be in excess of 6000lbs and much more loaded up with mods and gear. You don't want to install something that could potentially cause more damage because it won't support the weight of the vehicle if the slider takes a major blow. I hope they work out for you. I also try to save money wherever possible. Post up pictures when you have them installed.

 

[spressomon]

Sounds like what Spressomon had to do.

But I like cutting and burning metal...so that's my story

 

[Papalud]

I'm completely ignorant on this subject, but could the bare metal White knuckle sliders be line-x'd or done with the diy roll on bed liner? Do they need any other prep before it's done?

 

[Brock]

yes it can be done but is not the best option.....reasons given:

1. Sliders need to slide across rocks and such so I would only put the non-slip surface on upper portions of the sliders for footing and then rattle can the remaining portions that are apt to come into contact with rocks or trees or other obstacles.

2. Getting out of your vehicle if it has a rough non-slip surface will be the bane of your existance if you wrap it around the tube completely as every time you or the woman get out without legs covered it will scrape your calves...tear her hose...or more.


If doing it only do the top surface and leave sides and bottom rattle can. I put three coats of primer on my BudBuilts on FJC...then two coats of hammered finish rustoleum and worked great. Then get your roll on bed liner added afterwords and tape off your lines for clean look.

Just my two cents on making sliders so they dont slide is bad idea....just like skids not skidding.

 

[lexi4darin]

Skids gotta skid. Sliders gotta slide.

 

[Papalud]

makes sense. Now I can go the other direction and dust them with graphite.

 

[Sverige]

Perhaps this thread can be updated to include the MetalTech's and the new design of the White Knuckle Offroad sliders up top? I am looking forward to seeing John's new sliders mounted on someone's truck...

I am hoping some of these newer designs can help minimize the awful gap that some of the earlier models had between the slider rail and the rocker panel... like this (BoarderJab I'm not trying to diss your truck in particular, this was just the best picture I could find illustrating the "fugly gap").

Which manufacturer has the least amount of gap?

 

[2000UZJ]

Perhaps this thread can be updated to include the MetalTech's and the new design of the White Knuckle Offroad sliders up top? I am looking forward to seeing John's new sliders mounted on someone's truck...

I am hoping some of these newer designs can help minimize the awful gap that some of the earlier models had between the slider rail and the rocker panel... like this (BoarderJab I'm not trying to diss your truck in particular, this was just the best picture I could find illustrating the "fugly gap").

Which manufacturer has the least amount of gap?

The WK are adjustable, mine are as close to the body as you can have them. The newer design is in the kick out. I always get hung up on mine, I'm glad they redesigned it. I think the Slee Tube Sliders have the most consistent gap front to rear and sits quite snug.

 

[boarderjab]

Perhaps this thread can be updated to include the MetalTech's and the new design of the White Knuckle Offroad sliders up top? I am looking forward to seeing John's new sliders mounted on someone's truck...

I am hoping some of these newer designs can help minimize the awful gap that some of the earlier models had between the slider rail and the rocker panel... like this (BoarderJab I'm not trying to diss your truck in particular, this was just the best picture I could find illustrating the "fugly gap").
http://lx470.punkjab.com/2.jpg
Which manufacturer has the least amount of gap?

Not dissed I know I take bad pictures. But let me try to explain why there is a slight gap on the LX vs LC. I got to work with John to mock these up for my LX. And we found that the LX has some extra fat behind the front wheels. The angel on the LX version is a little different than the LC model for this reason. Probably hard to tell but I got to watch him make most of these adjustments and we test fit them a few times to meet his standards and I gave my approval. The gap is about the size of my first knuckle along the body and that picture makes it look a bit larger.

The gap
http://lx470.punkjab.com/34.jpg

Right next to the fender at the front. Trying to show how close it is to the body on the LX. The only was to fix that would be to make them flatter. But I like them better this way. If you look closely you can see they only flexed a mm or two with the full weight of the vehicle and only two legs. I couldn't be happier with them.
http://lx470.punkjab.com/58.jpg

http://lx470.punkjab.com/07.jpg

 

[DustyRay]

Or.....
Buy yourself:
Tube bender: JD Squared, Inc. - Model 3 Bender
$295

Welder: Hobart Handler 125EZ MIG Welder
$320

Pride and satisfaction of building your own: priceless!!

The sound of one hand clapping