Sleeving DOM with AL

[maxamillion2345]

I couldn't really find an answer searching pirate, just looking for opinions...

I bent my 1.5 .250 dom tie rod. Looking to sleeve it with either 1" .250 dom or 1" round solid 7075. Not much difference in cost and I'll have to have em turned either way.

Any thoughts on what would be stronger?

 

[mr jits]

I couldn't really find an answer searching pirate, just looking for opinions...

I bent my 1.5 .250 dom tie rod. Looking to sleeve it with either 1" .250 dom or 1" round solid 7075. Not much difference in cost and I'll have to have em turned either way.

Any thoughts on what would be stronger?

I use .3175 chromoly, it seems to do the trick pretty well. On what kind of truck is it going on? If it's an 80, I have a set for sale.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Its not stock, 80 on tons. I could buy heat treated 1.5 .250 4130 for 150$ plus shipping but I have a stick of 1.5 .250 dom already so I wanted to roll with that.
It's about 51" and I'm running heims.

 

[maxamillion2345]

I might add its a 7k lbs 80 on 40s.

 

[Mace]

.250 dom will be stronger.

But neither will add that much strength. Going to a larger diameter will.

1.5" .25 wall Dom is very strong. How did you bend it?

 

[maxamillion2345]

Doesn't tell me much about the 7075 but I'm going to guess that bumping up to 2" tube if I can is way stronger. And I already have 2" and 1.5 dom

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/6529317-post59.html

 

[maxamillion2345]

Its not that strong really. Pushing it into rocks.

 

[Mace]

1.5 should be sufficient.. what happened?

 

[maxamillion2345]

I have clearance issues running high steer so my tie rod is off the stock steer arms and I have a 7k lbs 80 series with a cummins and big tires. Bumped a few rocks and it's got a good bow to it now.

I know you said it first, I just didn't realize what a big difference diameter makes. I'm going to see if I can clear 2", I think I can though.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Here are the relative strengths of the material - the number you're most interested in is the yield strength

7075-T6 Aluminum
Physical and Mechanical Properties Ultimate Tensile Strength, psi 83,000
Yield Strength, psi 73,000
Brinell Hardness 150
Rockwell Hardness B87
Chemistry Aluminum (Al) 87.1 - 91.4%
Zinc (Zn) 5.1 - 6.1% max
Copper (Cu) 1.2 - 2.0%
Chromium (Cr) 0.18 - 0.28%
Iron (Fe) 0.5 max
Magnesium (Mg) 2.1 - 2.9%
Manganese (Mn) 0.3% max

A513 (alloy 1020-1026) Steel

ASTM A513 alloys 1020 - 1026 Mild (low-carbon) steel
Minimum Properties Ultimate Tensile Strength, psi 87,000
Yield Strength, psi 72,000
Elongation 10.0%
Rockwell Hardness B89
Chemistry Iron (Fe) 99.08 - 99.53%
Carbon (C) 0.18 - 0.23%
Manganese (Mn) 0.3 - 0.6%
Phosphorus (P) 0.04% max
Sulfur (S) 0.05% max

You can see that the aluminum would be stronger because there is more of it - however, solid rod steel would be a bit stronger.

All that said, I wouldn't use the aluminum because you need the elasticity of steel. Once the 7075 cracks, it's done. If it cracks, you won't see it (as it's inside the tube) until the bar bends again - and that could happen catastrophically. By using similar materials, you get the same rates of expansion and the same rates of elasticity. All that said, if you really want it to be as hard as possible - melt down some brass and fill it.

 

[Mace]

I have clearance issues running high steer so my tie rod is off the stock steer arms and I have a 7k lbs 80 series with a cummins and big tires. Bumped a few rocks and it's got a good bow to it now.

I know you said it first, I just didn't realize what a big difference diameter makes. I'm going to see if I can clear 2", I think I can though.

If you can clear 2" then you are really good to go. Going larger in diameter makes a huge strength increase. Adding material to the inside of the tubing will not make nearly as much difference.

Are you running hydro assist? If so, how is it mounted?

 

[Mace]

Rogue fab has a great calculator for your uses..

Roll Cage Calculator- find the stress level in tubes or suspension parts!

 

[maxamillion2345]

Hydro assist is mounted to axle tube and close to knuckle on my tie rod as possible, welded on tabs

 

[mr jits]

Wide open design sells the 7075 t6 steering tube. The cool thing about the t6 stuff is the "memory" aspect and how it can deform a certain percentage and snap back to shape.

 

[landcruiserrich]

Just my $.02 on aluminum; Sleeving a steel tube with an aluminum one is a bad idea. it will corrode like crazy. You may be able to use some kind of barrier between the two metals like a good primer or sealant but it will eventually break down and galvanic corrosion will take over. Aluminum is more brittle/ prone to work hardening than steel so if you do end up going with an all aluminum link then don't expect to be able to straighten it out on the trail without breaking it....then you're screwed cause who carries a portable TIG welder around with them?

 

[Mudder]

You can mig aluminum

 

[maxamillion2345]

I do have a buddy with a ready welder but I don't think he carries aluminum wire or if it can even do aluminum? I don't have a spool gun at home though. I'm not overly fond of clamp on hydro assist mounts either.

Anyway I'm gonna run with some 2" dom if it'll fit if not I'll find whatever 1.75 will fit over 1.5" dom.

 

[maxamillion2345]

I usually trailer my rig to trails so I'm not too worried about bending I just don't want to keep replacing these things. Breaking on the other hand would suck...

Weight isn't much of a concern either lol

I just want a tie rod I can stop my rig with.

 

[Mace]

Go 2" Dom or chromo then

 

[maxamillion2345]

Hope it fits!