Slee's new caster plates

[Beowulf]

It would be nice having the adjustability, but my truck is awesome at 6*. I can't imagine why I would need to adjust it.

Gary,

Your's is OK at 6* but that will change as the springs settle, you add a winch and a dual battery setup, etc. Or you might decide to add 1" spacers to the unladen truck taking you below 6*.

It would be nice if one could readjust as the mods pile up.

-B-

 

[the shed guy]

You guys need to stop thinking so much, and just do what works.....

 

[Waggoner5]

Gary,

Your's is OK at 6* but that will change as the springs settle, you add a winch and a dual battery setup, etc. Or you might decide to add 1" spacers to the unladen truck taking you below 6*.

It would be nice if one could readjust as the mods pile up.

-B-

Thats correct. I like the height now but when I add bumpers and such, if I do, I will probably go up to 5" springs.

 

[sleeoffroad]

I'm wondering if bjowett's idea of using the mini-truck "cam bolts" could be combined with Christo's Caster plates. This would give the best of both solutions; a less intrusive installation for those of us with limited access to custom fabrication, and a way to adjust caster depending on the amount of lift.

Thoughts?

-B-

Certainly doable, but it will add cost to the while setup. We wanted to do a less expensive caster correction for people that wanted to add MR Gasket spacers etc etc. It is very easy to get feature creep and then you end up with a more expensive product that will compete with our arms that we already have.

We have always maintaned that the plates are a compromise solution.

The plates are designed to have the maximum caster correction before tie-rod/ control arm interference stop it from working. As it is, one might have to grind a little on the arms.

With this plates you can easily run J springs and 1" spacer and be on the top end of the caster range.

Remember this is just one parts of the equation. The rest is still there in terms of panhard rods etc etc.

 

[landtank]

OK, so Brian, how much to mod a set of plates?

I know I need to do something but the plates would seem to be too much. Or do I just pack an over night bag and drop by on a weekend and have you fab up the axle .

 

[sleeoffroad]

B, a most excellent idea... I could see it throwing the cost up another $60 from a small "tuner" like Slee. The Question is "will he?".... Let me throw some gas on a fire... Christo, you state to properly clear 35" tires one needs to spend $3k with you, what's another $60 on top of $120 to do it right? Folks drive Cruisers because they want the best... don't cheap out now.

We state that to run 35" tires, they need more than just 2.5" of lifted. How people spend their money is up to them.

We are planning to sell the plates as part of a 4" kit that will be lower cost. $1900 for the DIY version with weld in adjusters and $2375 for a bolt in ready to go kit. This will be 4" heavy load springs with no spacers.

 

[sleeoffroad]

OK, so Brian, how much to mod a set of plates?

I know I need to do something but the plates would seem to be too much. Or do I just pack an over night bag and drop by on a weekend and have you fab up the axle .

There is a little problem with moding the existing plate. In order for the cam bolt to work you need to a slot for it to move in. Currently since the palte is bolted to the outside, you need to have a spacer on the inside to make up the space difference. So you would have to remove the existing spacer and replace with one that allows for the slot.

Also one of the things about the current plates is that you can remove them and go back to stock with a little grinding (if you welded the front sections as we recommend).

With the slots, you would need to slot all the way through the bottom of the oem bracket for there to be any adjustability.

Not a big deal, but something to consider.

Also, maybe Cdan can give us the prices for the cam bolts and pieces so we can get an idea on cost.

 

[clownmidget]

Also, maybe Cdan can give us the prices for the cam bolts and pieces so we can get an idea on cost.

Well, some clown recently purchased these from Dan to do something with them.
Part #'s for cam bolts (2 of each)
Cam assy, camber 48190 35020 = 6.99
Cam, camber adjuster 48198 35010 = 5.55
Nut 90179 16005 = 1.54

total = 28.16

 

[sleeoffroad]

This is the part that might cause the problems with slotting the plates and the spacers.

 

[cruiserdan]

About 14 bucks per cam, plate and nut for an early 90's 4wd truck.



EDIT: A little slower than some clown on the up-take.....

 

[bjowett]

Rick.... I'll do it for 1 million dollars.... seriously, talk with me this spring if you want to do it.

Christo, I had to produce a similar inner spacer as my plates mount outboard just as your do, a U shape works well for it... or am I missing what you are trying to portray? I "think" the cam bolts, if installed a bit higher than what I did, would allow stock to 6 degees, or quite close. Good to hear you are working on it.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Good to hear you are working on it.

Yes, but thankfully I have another year to get those done.

 

[landtank]

Thanks Brian i will. And that ride back to CT half asleep sucked, got lost twice and almost got a ticket.

 

[Photoman]

Here was a thought for caster adjustments I had been playing around with. It uses the stock 1/2 inch hole on the OEM bracket. The OEM bracket does need to be slotted. With this particular length bolt in the pic, the range of motion is around 1 1/4 inch of adjustment. Longer bolt = more adjustment or a different starting point could be used for range of adjustment. On the PS (US) the bracket needs to be made a little thinner (front to back), but it works. A larger stronger bolt could be used and the example does not have any bracing etc. for strength. If it's hard to figure out, counter clockwise on the bolt lowers the bracket and control arm.

Bill

 

[cruiserdan]

Leave it to Bill to figure out how to make it adjustable.............

Way cool and elegantly simple.....


No wonder we haven't heard from you in such a while. Youv'e been in the garage since October, haven't you..........

 

[bjowett]

Super slick! Nice job... this forum is most excellent! Full of great idea's and talent!

 

[clownmidget]

Bill, that is beautifully slick but you better pre-emptively figure out how to weld this onto Christo's plates! On that note, it does seem that Christo's plates could be "one-piece" with Bill's design bridging between the two sides...
Mike

 

[landtank]

In my mind I think the beauty of what Bill did is to show us a route for a simple non-adjustable caster correction plate.


A U-shaped piece that would bolt to all three holes, top and 2 sides and then be drilled for a different amount of cater correction.

I'd think that between the three above bolts and then the one single bolt through the bushing would secure everything nicely.

Plates might be designed with different drops for:

OME
OMEJ
OMEJ + 1" shim

You get the idea. Don't think they would be that expensive to produce either.

 

[the shed guy]

Here was a thought for caster adjustments I had been playing around with.
Bill

BTW Photoman, your bush in that pic is FUBAR. [centre section of bush off to one side]

And I think you should have bigger laod sharing plates onto the existing housing top and bottom of existing hole.

 

[Jomama]

Arise from the depths dead thread.

Thought I'd just resurrect this thread instead of starting a new one. Havent taken pics yet but I installed Slees Castor plates today, and just did a little test drive.

Driving & tracking = improved tenfold. Most roads here have pretty significant ruts. Prior to today I would not of let others drive my truck (non-cruiserphiles at least ). It wasnt ever "scary", but with the J-springs and no castor correction it really wanted to follow those ruts, etc, etc... what many here have experience...


NOW: Tracking was pretty much dead on. A little pull to the right on some roads? Handled hwy speeds much nicer, a lot less drift and no constant counter steering.
The little loss of self-centering is noticable but competely driveable. After I get it dialed in I had planned to rotate/balance/align (and mabey they can tell me exactly what the castor is at now).


Unfortunatly it does appear the arms and the relay rod behind the axle are rubbing ever so slightly. So tomorrow I'll be finding out how hard it is to break the red loc -tight and doing a little grinding. They are really close to rubbing each other when wheels are pointed straight, they may even be touching, and it appears to really rub when turning (the "inside" of the turn side of the truck). There is some noticable vibration when turning.


Toughest part was when bolting it back up, rotating the axle to get the holes lined up took a bit of effort, especially by myself. Used my jack and lifted under the PS hard point where the lower tie rod attaches to the axle. This coupled with a small cam-strap to pull on it a little more, and I lined up the PS first, DS went together much easier after I got the PS lined up.

Make sure you have 2 open/closed end 27mm wrenches to get the bolts on the passenger side before you take it all apart (was a nice bike ride to sears tho)

I'm thinking I will add 1in spacers to try and bring the castor back a little.

Another nice product from Mr. Slee.

Overall was a really easy job. Probably spent 4hrs doing it (w/out the bike ride half way thru).

I'll post some pics if I can once I grind the arms.