thanks, i look forward to the pics.
Slee's new caster plates
- Thread starter Waggoner5
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Jomama said:
Probably not the best method, but I accomplished this pretty quickly by leveraging the axle on the tie rod with some tube stock and a floor jack.
I was extremely pressed for time, and did the job at ULC, took a VERY rushed 1.5 hrs for me.
Likewise, I am very pleased with the plates.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Jomama said:Unfortunatly it does appear the arms and the relay rod behind the axle are rubbing ever so slightly. So tomorrow I'll be finding out how hard it is to break the red loc -tightand doing a little grinding.
You should be able to grind the arms on the truck. Just mark where it needs the grinding, then turn the wheels to get the tie-rod out of the way.
Jomama
Lucideye
Going outside to try that right now Christo. I was hoping I could fit the grinder in there.
edit** I did notice that SleeOffroad discontinued the front spring spacers? Any overstock left? I assume this is because you have springs to fill that niche now.
edit** I did notice that SleeOffroad discontinued the front spring spacers? Any overstock left? I assume this is because you have springs to fill that niche now.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I tried the grind in place method and it's difficult. Much easier in my opinion to drop one arm at a time, leaving the front bolt attached. I would reccomend to anyone doing this mod, to grind the arms while they are off the truck the first time.
Jomama
Lucideye
Cruiserdrew said:
Yes it is a bit difficult. With the guard on the grinder, I could only use it upside down to get forward of the relay rod on the control arm. The back side of the grinding disk isnt flat so it was a little more work to grind it flat. Seems the relay rod dips lowest somewhere short of a full turn one way. I think I may have gotten enough. No more noticable vibration on my test drive, although it may be as one poster mentioned. May still be rubbing 10% of the time. The area that needs to be grinded is much wider than I thought at first look. Mabey a 4-5 inch strip along top of arm.
Its so close....
?? Do you think spacers up front would give even a half inch rotation back to the axle? Thats all you need really.
I think Woody suggested in another thread about adding a offset to the relay rod. 1 inch verticle (or drop to the ends) in the relay rod and you'd clear the control arms, and stilll be below the swaybar?
Any driving, safety reason this wouldnt work?
Any reason I couldn't get a fab shop to make something like this for me?
Last edited:
Could someone post a pic of what needs to be grinded? Good reference for when i get my plates.
I gotcha T Y, thanks, but i was thinking they were talking of somewhere else. If that's it, i've got it wooped.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I was speaking of the grinding you have to do on the top of the leading arms. I think Jomama and Christo were too.
Opps, you're probably right. You'll just have to install them yourself, and see if anything mentioned above rubs or not. Just turn the wheel and observe below. I don't think I experience any rubbing. At first I thought I was, but once the suspension (which was newly installed) settled the odd click I was hearing dissappeared.
TY
TY
Jomama
Lucideye
concretejungle said:
I have pics, will try and post tomorrow, although I dont know if I can without a star.
Jomama
Lucideye
No pics.....
I cant get the the image tags to work to the pics I have on my webserver, and when I try to upload the pics it just times out..
I cant get the the image tags to work to the pics I have on my webserver, and when I try to upload the pics it just times out..
Last edited:
