SirBarton Pig Thread

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Dang that is a clean engine bay! That air cleaner assembly looks right at home. Is that an oil-bath type?

It’s an air filter housing from a 74 with a 1f. Mechanic had it handy and we just painted it up to look pretty. The 2f air cleaner that should be on there is a wider triangle shape sits on top of the engine block and justifies the hump in the hood of the 55s staring in 1975 (I believe).
 
It’s an air filter housing from a 74 with a 1f. Mechanic had it handy and we just painted it up to look pretty. The 2f air cleaner that should be on there is a wider triangle shape sits on top of the engine block and justifies the hump in the hood of the 55s staring in 1975 (I believe).

Just as an FYI my 77 model has that same aircleaner, so it’s not entirely out of place. I also found that it fits the same filters as my 94 80 series which is handy.
 
@serenity good to know.

@wngrog agreed. I noticed the circular filters for these air cleaners are reasonably proced and easy to find being that they are most of the fj40s.
 
Next up is dealing with the rust on the rear section of he frame. I started foing at it with a wire brush a few hours at a time but now I’m so busy with work I may find a shop locally and just have them go over the whole thing.
 
Ok Mark, ready for the post mortem. Here’s my report.
  1. Missing accelerator pump linkage-what brought you in.
  2. Went to move the choke breaker out of the way to get better access to the mounting nut by the booster and discovered your installer plumbed the diaphragm to a vacuum advance port on the carb base. This has no vacuum at idle, so it makes the CB useless.
  3. None of the mounting nuts had lockwashers, and two of them were barely tight. Granted, There is not always enough threads on the mounting studs for a full split washer. When that is the case, I use a serrated flange nut to accomplish the task. And that is what you will be getting on reinstall.
  4. As mentioned when you dropped the truck off, the secondary diaphragm is the FJ40 type, which is too long to actuate the secondary on a FJ60 type carb.
  5. The two bolts that hold the fuel bowl to the throttle body also did not have lockwashers. That’s a 101 fail on the rebuilder, just like the diaphragm.
  6. Jet access plugs are from a pre-75 F engine carb (drilled to hold spare jets) This is proof of my theory I shared with you that this was/is a morphodite carburetor from that shop in Canoga Park I told you about.
It’s your call whether or not you want to share the name of the shop that installed this.
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Ok Mark, ready for the post mortem. Here’s my report.
  1. Missing accelerator pump linkage-what brought you in.
  2. Went to move the choke breaker out of the way to get better access to the mounting nut by the booster and discovered your installer plumbed the diaphragm to a vacuum advance port on the carb base. This has no vacuum at idle, so it makes the CB useless.
  3. None of the mounting nuts had lockwashers, and two of them were barely tight. Granted, There is not always enough threads on the mounting studs for a full split washer. When that is the case, I use a serrated flange nut to accomplish the task. And that is what you will be getting on reinstall.
  4. As mentioned when you dropped the truck off, the secondary diaphragm is the FJ40 type, which is too long to actuate the secondary on a FJ60 type carb.
  5. The two bolts that hold the fuel bowl to the throttle body also did not have lockwashers. That’s a 101 fail on the rebuilder, just like the diaphragm.
More to come.

Thanks for the update. Looking forward to more good news.... :)
 
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For those just following along.... The work I had done with the new carb and air cleaner by a local LA shop when Mark was unavailable has been nothing but problems and now Mark is on the case for me and updating the saga here.
 
Oh, and there were no washers between the main jets and the carb. :rolleyes:
 
Oh, and there were no washers between the main jets and the carb. :rolleyes:

I'm happy to share the name of the shop to avoid in Los Angeles because the get a lot of work and have enjoyed a favorable reputation for many years apparently. It's called K&H Imports repair and as you can see by my experience, I would avoid them at all costs.
 
Carb is back on truck. Purrs like a kitten, roars like a lion. Correct fuel pump has now been installed too. Neither of the fuel pump bolts had lockwashers either. :rolleyes:
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Well I can attest that it purred like a kitten and has never sounded better than I did when I picked it up from @65swb45

Unfortunately, just as I made it to my house a hose busted or came apart and coolant went everywhere. Hopefully I stopped in time. You win some, you lose some. Just usually not that close together!

 
I don't know yet. I have to get in to it tomorrow morning in daylight. I was too frustrated tonight but will post pictures or video tomorrow.
 
Well the hoses actually seem ok. I just got underneath it with a flashlight. The fluid is coming out of the gasket behind the timing belt. If I pour a little water in the radiator, it starts coming out there. That seems bad, right @65swb45 ?
 
No water there unless the block is cracked. The water pump is only an 1/8” above the timing cover, and much more likely to be the culprit.

It could be the impeller seal behind the pulley, the main seal which then leaks out the weep hole in the underside of the pump, either of the gaskets on the back of the pump. All four choices require removing the pump.

Or it could be the bypass hose OR lower hose, both of which are very hard to see behind a 2F alternator bracket.

6 choices, all within 4” of each other.
 
I’ll see if I can get some good photos and videos tomorrow. Bummed.
 
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