Single LipoFe 148ah battery install (2 Viewers)

[Outsane]

I have been running a dual battery system for a while. Second battery was a built 100ah lipo on the wits end qpm. I abused the lipo battery and need to replace it.

I am going to try a 148ah 1200amp max, 800a continous battery. As my starter and regular battery. $299 for the battery.

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This should start the rig and run the winch fine, also run the fridge and induction stove.

Also with one battery I should be able to loose a little weight.

So here is the battery, and where I want to install.

Down on the side of the drawers.

Building this platform for the battery to sit on.

Run a big ol cable to the engine bay, then have no batteries up there.
This battery weighs 44lbs.


I should end up with more capacity, that will also charge faster then the optima red top.


More details to come, but this seems like a new take on battery set up.

 

[LandLocked93]

A big ol'e cable front to back will be necessary.
Can the recharge feed (alternator presumably) reach the required 14.6V, including drop over that distance w/o a BCDC?

I'm running 2 - D4 AGM batts, each @200Ahrs and weighing over 44lbs for sure. More like 85lbs each.
The cost of what you have relative to their weight and capacity is compelling.
But the discharge rate is completely over the top. Only if I'm welding on the trail would I need what this offers.
Is there a scaled down unit? One with lower discharge rate but increased longevity?
Looking at their site...

 

[DivByZero]

I'm interested, but I also have a lot of questions. How does this battery cope with the large inrush current when starting or winching? I have heard lithium batteries, and in particular their managers, don't usually like this. Also, do you have to worry about low temperatures? Charging Lithium batteries gets difficult or impossible in low temps, but it may not be a problem if it's inside the rig. Most of all, what gauge wiring are you running? It's quite a long run from the rear up to the engine bay. In order to handle 200 amps or so without significant voltage drop, you'll need some pretty beefy wire, and some extra protection would be in order I'd imagine to lower the risk of shorting/fire.

Interested in where this goes, because it's something I'd written off as a non-starter in the past, but that was just a mental exercise. Everything's solvable, so I'm curious to see how it goes.

 

[mudgudgeon]

It's quite a long run from the rear up to the engine bay. In order to handle 200 amps or so without significant voltage drop, you'll need some pretty beefy wire, and some extra protection would be in order I'd imagine to lower the risk of shorting/fire.

Battery capable of delivering 1200 amps, would want some serious fuses at the battery.
A winch can pull 400-600 amps. Cable to run 600 amps from the rear of the vehicle is gonna be hefty.
A short at starter motor or winch motor will cook cabling fast.

 

[Outsane]

@LandLocked93
There are smaller units

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$150

74ah.

 

[Outsane]

@DivByZero
I will be not be using a bms and charging directly from a wagan tech dcdc. Comparable to redarc bcdc.

DC to DC Battery Chargers

Optimizing & Maintaining your Power Eco-System

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Battery Temp
I plan on using a rv watertank blanket. These run off 12v and are made to keep water from freezing and turn on automatically. Should be about perfect. Also the battery will be inside the rig which will help.

I haven't picked out cables yet to run to the front. Typically winches are not fused because The large amperage. I do have a BlueSea Gian red switch I can put in at the battery. I think the run is 10ft. Maybe 000 AWG.

 

[Outsane]

Battery management will be done with an active balancer to keep the cells level.

First step will be to replace the old lipo with the new. Removing the starter battery will be the interesting part.

I am not totally sure if you can continously charge a lipo4 with a dcdc and no bms.

But most bms units cannot handle large amounts of current.

 

[Outsane]

I made a platform for the battery to rest on, also starting making a battery holder.

Going to use the jag35 compression plates to mount instead.

I removed the old battery I had on the qpm and hope to put in a twin arb style in place. I have a morrflate 10 6 in the drawer now.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I made a platform for the battery to rest on, also starting making a battery holder.

Going to use the jag35 compression plates to mount instead.

View attachment 3466871

I removed the old battery I had on the qpm and hope to put in a twin arb style in place. I have a morrflate 10 6 in the drawer now.

It seems odd to me that the bars linking terminals are all beefy thick, but the two plates at the connection ends are half as thick.

I have no idea if that's significant in any way. Just see it as odd

 

[Outsane]

They talked about it in videos, they said something about it only connecting two batteries and not four.

They have done some thermal testing, with a flir like camera.

 

[mudgudgeon]

They talked about it in videos, they said something about it only connecting two batteries and not four.

They have done some thermal testing, with a flir like camera.

I'm sure they know more than me.

My brain says all the current from all the cells passes through those two end terminals. But that's maybe a simplistic view?

 

[Outsane]

Temporary wiring charging system is working

Wagan Tech dcdc 40 amp with monitor
And inverter is underneath.

40A DC to DC Battery Charger

Description 40A DC to DC Battery Charger Purposefully designed to accurately and safely charge auxiliary batteries, the Wagan Tech Dual-Input DC to DC Charger series ensures your batteries are kept at optimum levels that will enhance performance and extend their lifespan. Our chargers can be...

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Monitoring the charge and discharge today. While working on Halloween helmets.