Side Cover Gasket (1 Viewer)

[rfj62]

1990 3F

I have a bunch of leaks; power steering, valve cover and side cover to start. Figured I'd start at the top. I removed the power steering pump to rebuild, at this point does it make any sense to remove the AC compressor and bracket (if possible) to slide the side cover out? I do not plan on disconnecting the AC system. Or does it make any sense to disconnect the rear heater pipes since I have the thermostat out for replacement? Or both? Considering doing the oil galley plug also. Almost 300k and it hasn't come out yet, but I guess you never know. I will replace some rubber hoses as someone has suggested already.

Jeff

 

[OSS]

A word of warning from someone who’s gone down a similar path:

I sheared off a little manifold egr pipe flange bolt by over tightening it (with a torque wrench) and a few weeks later my entire engine was taken apart and lying in parts on the garage floor.

There’s no end to the “While You’re In There” syndrome with these extremely high mileage 30 year old vehicles. Everything warrants a disassembly/rebuild/reseal/replacement and it’s very difficult to just fix one little thing while letting it’s nearby neighbor rot away.

Everything is in need of attention. It’s up to your fortitude to prevent everything from ending up as separated parts scattered everywhere as “While I’m In There” syndrome takes over your life.

Bottom Line: Fix and refurbish anything you want. It’s not wasted time or money- but don’t say I didn’t warn you…

 

[rfj62]

“While You’re In There” syndrome

Yep, I've been there before. I actually thought about pulling the motor and replacing all the gaskets because I think most of them are leaking, including the oil pan and rear main seal. I figured it might be easier to do all of that if the engine was out. But I knew if I did that, one thing would definitely lead to another and it would snowball like crazy. Not ready for that at this time, just trying to stop the leaks one at a time. Just trying to do it the easiest way possible.

 

[mvisio]

Just replaced my side cover gasket 2 days ago. Moving the oil cooler hoses and rear heater hoses definitely makes the job easier, and of course, replace them if you have any doubt on their reliability (you're taking them off already).

I also removed the oil cooler, replaced the two copper crush washers and the two rubber o-rings behind it. I also removed the oil filter mount (held on by 4 bolts) and replaced the fiber gasket behind it.

I didn't have to remove any AC components. I did remove the alternator (which I see you've already done).

I did go ahead and fix the galley plug too. Took my time and used an 8mm x 1.25 tap. For what its worth, my order of operations over the past 3 days was:

1. Warm up engine
2. Adjust valves and leave air filter & valve cover off once finished
3. With oil still warm, drain engine oil
4. Remove parts required to replace side cover (heater hoses, distributor, etc) and replace
5. Remove oil filter mount and oil cooler, replace gaskets on both
6. At this point my block was completely cold (was on day 2 of repairs), so I removed the head bolt and did the galley plug fix. Being sure to let new 8mm plugs cure for >24hrs
7. While waiting on plugs to cure, remove oil pan and replace gasket.
8. Let sit over night. Fill truck with new fluids (oil and coolant) and go test for leaks

I can't speak for your RMS but this process solved tons of my leaks. Looking like I may have a front main seal leak now but it's barely dripping. Will save it for another day...

 

[rfj62]

I also removed the oil cooler, replaced the two copper crush washers and the two rubber o-rings behind it. I also removed the oil filter mount (held on by 4 bolts) and replaced the fiber gasket behind it.

Excellent idea! I'll start with that.

I did go ahead and fix the galley plug too. Took my time and used an 8mm x 1.25 tap. For what its worth, my order of operations over the past 3 days was:

Any problem getting the old plug out? I've seen a couple of different methods of removal of the plug, which one did you use?

Thanks for the input and steps!

 

[mvisio]

Excellent idea! I'll start with that.

Not sure if its the same on a 62, but the part numbers for the oil cooler and filter bracket gaskets were:

• 9043018012 (Copper Crush Washers, order 2)
• 9030121176 (Rubber O-Rings that fit behind oil cooler, order 2)
• 1569161010 (Oil filter gasket that mates oil filter bracket to block)

Because you're taking off the side cover, you'll have to remove the PCV valve. May as well order a new one. Its cheap and could improve your performance:

• 1220461010 (The PCV valve itself)
• 9048018180 (Rubber grommet the PCV valve sits inside of

Sorry....not trying to overwhelm you!

Any problem getting the old plug out? I've seen a couple of different methods of removal of the plug, which one did you use?

Thanks for the input and steps!

You know it's interesting you bring that up. I drilled a hole into the plug, and screwed in a small eye bolt to pull it out. It actually required a lot of elbow grease to remove, and left me wondering if I even actually needed the galley plug fix.

In retrospect I might have been tempted to hold off a little longer on the galley fix, but I *thought* mine was starting to weep. You know what they say, "While you're in there".

 

[rfj62]

Not sure if its the same on a 62, but the part numbers for the oil cooler and filter bracket gaskets were:

• 9043018012 (Copper Crush Washers, order 2)
• 9030121176 (Rubber O-Rings that fit behind oil cooler, order 2)
• 1569161010 (Oil filter gasket that mates oil filter bracket to block)

Because you're taking off the side cover, you'll have to remove the PCV valve. May as well order a new one. Its cheap and could improve your performance:

• 1220461010 (The PCV valve itself)
• 9048018180 (Rubber grommet the PCV valve sits inside of

Sorry....not trying to overwhelm you!

Thanks for all the info and part numbers, I appreciate it.

In retrospect I might have been tempted to hold off a little longer on the galley fix, but I *thought* mine was starting to weep. You know what they say, "While you're in there".

The funny thing is that after 30 years and almost 300k miles, about the only thing that is not leaking is the oil galley plug! Do I do it or not.

 

[3_puppies]

YES, do the oil galley plug.

 

[OSS]

the only thing that is not leaking is the oil galley plug! Do I do it or not.

The original plug will either not leak at all or the hole it’s plugging will gush oil when it pops out.
Yes it should be replaced as a preventative measure even if it’s dry.

 

[SteveH]

Probably too late, but you might go to a high pressure car wash and seriously clean that area of your engine before starting teardown. See attached - my article from Toyota Trails in PDF form.

 

[rfj62]

YES, do the oil galley plug.

The original plug will either not leak at all or the hole it’s plugging will gush oil when it pops out.
Yes it should be replaced as a preventative measure even if it’s dry.

Ok, seems overwhelming. I better do the oil plug. Better safe than sorry. I'd definitely regret that!

Probably too late, but you might go to a high pressure car wash and seriously clean that area of your engine before starting teardown. See attached - my article from Toyota Trails in PDF form.

Thanks for the article! I like the idea of the extra studs to make it easier.

Definitely too late. I power washed the undercarriage but was affraid to do in the engine bay. There is definitely more sludge on the outside than I originally thought. The oiler cooler hoses are falling apart also, so I'm down to just the distributor on that side. Yep, things are getting more in depth. If only someone would have warned me

Bottom Line: Fix and refurbish anything you want. It’s not wasted time or money- but don’t say I didn’t warn you…

Oh wait, they did.

 

[rfj62]

Whelp, drilled out the oil plug, came out easier than I thought. Just used a 90 deg drill adapter, helix bit and an eye bolt. Just have to get a plug now.

 

[rfj62]

Question on the seal packing stuff. I'm noticing a lot of gunk (as seal packing around the cam shaft cover), I think it is probably leaking here also, and thought at this point, I might as well go a little bit further and replace the timing gear cover, crankshaft seal and front end gasket. When I was looking at the FSM, I only saw that I should put the seal packing on the oil pan gasket, unless I missed something. Seem about right, no seal packing on the water pump, timing gear cover?

 

[4runner2FJ60]

I am currently resealing the front timing cover, oil cooler.....I have the gasket for the oil filter housing, anyone know if I can remove that with oil still in the pan? So far so good with the timing cover so I assume its possible minus the oil that is in the filter dumping out some.
Side cover is more about access. I did mine dry like a few people and re- torqued it once a few weeks later. No leaks at all. Make SURE you use an INCH lbs mini torque wrench.

 

[rfj62]

Seems like there would be no problem leaving the oil in the pan. I am changing the oil pan gasket also, so I emptied mine.

Did you do the timing cover dry or with sealant?

 

[mvisio]

Great work. Not sure on the sealant questions. Following because I may do timing cover in the future myself.

 

[4runner2FJ60]

I am going to use FPIG on the timing cover per what I have read on here. Side cover is easier to get to if need, and I believe there is alot less oil on that than the timing gear.

 

[rfj62]

I think I'm going to go dry like the FSM recommends or maybe try the Permatex Aircraft gasket dressing outlined in this thread.

Fipg w cork gasket?

Starting to put things back together. Should I use Aisin fipg with the cork gasket on the timing gear cover, water pump gasket and the thermostat housing gaskets? Thanks.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[g-man]

I've got a side cover leak and new gasket. Did this about 5 years ago but needs it again. I recently developed a hesitation so I'll try and resolve this first with a tune up and checking and replacing plug wires, dizzy cap and rotor, plugs etc. I like to work on one problem before I create another. My biggest concern is making sure the dizzy gets back in w/out being off a tooth. I don't remember having to break the coolant lines or move the oil cooler or oil filter last time. Just the dizzy and the pcv valve/line. I bought some spray on copper rtv for the gasket but not sure if I will use it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I've got a side cover leak and new gasket. Did this about 5 years ago but needs it again. I recently developed a hesitation so I'll try and resolve this first with a tune up and checking and replacing plug wires, dizzy cap and rotor, plugs etc. I like to work on one problem before I create another. My biggest concern is making sure the dizzy gets back in w/out being off a tooth. I don't remember having to break the coolant lines or move the oil cooler or oil filter last time. Just the dizzy and the pcv valve/line. I bought some spray on copper rtv for the gasket but not sure if I will use it.

The hard coolant line on the valve cover… I usually unbolt and tie it up out of the way. I believe most, me as well have just used the fipg for that. I only used it the lower half of the cover too, I don’t believe oil really builds up in there.