Fipg w cork gasket? (1 Viewer)

[Hammer45]

Starting to put things back together. Should I use Aisin fipg with the cork gasket on the timing gear cover, water pump gasket and the thermostat housing gaskets? Thanks.

 

[cps432]

Starting to put things back together. Should I use Aisin fipg with the cork gasket on the timing gear cover, water pump gasket and the thermostat housing gaskets? Thanks.

There should be fipg on the bottom half of the timing cover gasket where the oil sits while it’s parked. Look at the factory service manual for the engine overhaul to see where to apply it. Also there are specific bolts and studs that have different torque values and lengths so make sure you get that right or it will leak.

I used to have leaks when I used rtv on the water pump and thermostat. Last time I changed things I installed them dry and I haven’t had a leak.

 

[Hammer45]

There should be fipg on the bottom half of the timing cover gasket where the oil sits while it’s parked. Look at the factory service manual for the engine overhaul to see where to apply it. Also there are specific bolts and studs that have different torque values and lengths so make sure you get that right or it will leak.

I used to have leaks when I used rtv on the water pump and thermostat. Last time I changed things I installed them dry and I haven’t had a leak.

The fsm doesn’t say where to apply rtv. It just states install new gasket and gear cover.

There should be fipg on the bottom half of the timing cover gasket where the oil sits while it’s parked. Look at the factory service manual for the engine overhaul to see where to apply it. Also there are specific bolts and studs that have different torque values and lengths so make sure you get that right or it will leak.

I used to have leaks when I used rtv on the water pump and thermostat. Last time I changed things I installed them dry and I haven’t had a leak.

thx for the input. Fsm doesn’t state anything about rtv here. Just says install new gasket.

 

[cps432]

Hmmm... you’re right. I have a different manual and it doesn’t show it. I wonder where I learned that??? Anyhow, I’ve put the black goop around where I marked in red here. The first time I did the job I messed up the torque values and broke the aftermarket gasket. Last time I used Toyota parts and did the torque sequence correctly. But I still added the sealer and I haven’t had any leaks.

 

[Hammer45]

Hmmm... you’re right. I have a different manual and it doesn’t show it. I wonder where I learned that??? Anyhow, I’ve put the black goop around where I marked in red here. The first time I did the job I messed up the torque values and broke the aftermarket gasket. Last time I used Toyota parts and did the torque sequence correctly. But I still added the sealer and I haven’t had any leaks.View attachment 2742665

Awesome! Thx

 

[cruisermatt]

I no longer use any form of RTV on engines unless specifically called for it in that engine's OEM manual. I use shellac-type dissolvable gasket dressing that can't ball up and clog oil passages.

 

[cps432]

I no longer use any form of RTV on engines unless specifically called for it in that engine's OEM manual. I use shellac-type dissolvable gasket dressing that can't ball up and clog oil passages.

Interesting..,What’s the product called?

 

[Gretsch]

I'll second the RTV use bit @cruisermatt lays out. He would know as he does this kind of thing all the time. I didn't use any RTV anywhere on mine when I replaced this TC gasket. FSM doesn't call for it so I don't use it. No leaks for me. The two potentially important bits that it does call for is the sealer on the larger 14mm bolts on the lower part of the TC and to put all the bolts in finger tight when initially installing this gasket. I have seen more than one mudder on here warp their timing cover causing leaks by tightening the TC bolts before installing the crank pulley. You can damage/split the gasket as @cps432 mentions if the torque values are not followed. Short bolts are in inch pounds.

I used some WP sealer (thin layer)(not Toyota FIPG) on both sides of the OE WP gasket when doing mine. FSM doesn't call for it I don't think but its worked out for me. Maybe I'll pay the price for using that when I have to replace the WP again. HTH.

 

[cruisermatt]

Just Permatex Aircraft. Nothing special. Using this now on all cork and paper engine gaskets, as well as using it as a thread sealant on things like threaded oil galley plug mod, etc, transmission/t-case gaskets, cork diff cover gaskets..
The only thing I’m using RTV for on 40’s/60’s is for where the third members bolt into the axle housings. And to glue the bronze thrust washer in place when assembling transfer cases.

 

[SNLC]

I no longer use any form of RTV on engines unless specifically called for it in that engine's OEM manual. I use shellac-type dissolvable gasket dressing that can't ball up and clog oil passages.

Thats it right there and from my experience FIPG-silicone will blow up cork gaskets.


Cheers

 

[Hammer45]

Y’all are the bomb with all this experience. In my case series of less than 1000 FJ62’s, I am not using anything on the gasket. I have done this once as of today. The pulley just slide on like snot when there was a little MP grease on the seal. I pulled it off so I could get the proper torques on the bolts as I couldn’t reach the bolts with a torque wrench after putting the pulley on and it just easily slid back on. hope that was done right. Got the bolt torqued to 253 with a neighbors help. First one down! Thanks for the feedback.

 

[cps432]

Y’all are the bomb with all this experience. In my case series of less than 1000 FJ62’s, I am not using anything on the gasket. I have done this once as of today. The pulley just slide on like snot when there was a little MP grease on the seal. I pulled it off so I could get the proper torques on the bolts as I couldn’t reach the bolts with a torque wrench after putting the pulley on and it just easily slid back on. hope that was done right. Got the bolt torqued to 253 with a neighbors help. First one down! Thanks for the feedback.

That’s how I did it the second time. The first time I screwed it up because I left the pulley in place. I “guessed” on the torque values of those bolts that couldn’t be reached with the torque wrench and over tightened them with the box wrench. Started leaking immediately. Doing it the way you did it I have had no leaks.

 

[Gretsch]

I used a crowfoot adapter on a torque wrench at 90 degrees to get at the lower bolts with the pulley on. Slid the pulley on to set the cover in place, then torqued the bolts. Your way prolly works just as well.

 

[cps432]

I used a crowfoot adapter on a torque wrench at 90 degrees to get at the lower bolts with the pulley on. Slid the pulley on to set the cover in place, then torqued the bolts. Your way prolly works just as well.

View attachment 2743617

Does this not change the torque values of the wrench? I’ve always avoided using adapters or swivels on my torque wrench unless it’s a straight extension. Never thought of using a crows foot though. The ‘E’ measurement lengthens the wrench, so doesn’t that affect the foot pounds? And shouldn’t you compensate with your torque settings if you’re going to use this method? Or is it a negligible difference?

 

[Gretsch]

Does this not change the torque values of the wrench? I’ve always avoided using adapters or swivels on my torque wrench unless it’s a straight extension. Never thought of using a crows foot though. The ‘E’ measurement lengthens the wrench, so doesn’t that affect the foot pounds? And shouldn’t you compensate with your torque settings if you’re going to use this method? Or is it a negligible difference?

Another hotly debated automotive topic. I generally avoid adapters on mine as well. It does change the value if its not set at 90 degrees when you turn it. For clarity, what I mean by 90 degrees, is orienting the crows foot where its opening is 90 degrees turned from pointing straight out so the opening is pointed out sideways on the wrench. I think the idea is when the crows foot is pointed straight out, it increases the length of the wrench and where the bolt is distance wise from the handle, thus changing the torque value you are applying when you wrench. When you set it at a 90 degree angle, it is the same distance from the bolt to the end of the handle. Allegedly that's enough to allow the values to be pretty much the same as using a normal torque wrench. Whether true or not, I figured it was better than torqueing by feel those bolts with a box wrench. Seems to have worked for me anyhow. HTH.

Edit: Interesting calculator for determining torque with extensions/adapters:

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/renderers/torquewrench/wrench_formula_en.asp?type=180degcrow

 

[dmaddox]

Great post and information. As luck would have it, I’m fixing a timing cover leak and was prepared to black fipg the cover gasket like I have done on many. I can’t say it was good or bad. I never had a leak but also never kept the cruisers over 2-3 years.
I put a very thin layer in both sides of the gasket.
I’m second guessing this now and am tempted to just install it dry. Hmmmm.

The stuff that keeps us up at night…

 

[Hammer45]

Great post and information. As luck would have it, I’m fixing a timing cover leak and was prepared to black fipg the cover gasket like I have done on many. I can’t say it was good or bad. I never had a leak but also never kept the cruisers over 2-3 years.
I put a very thin layer in both sides of the gasket.
I’m second guessing this now and am tempted to just install it dry. Hmmmm.

The stuff that keeps us up at night…

Right there with you. I’m just trying not to be stupid and stand on the shoulders of those who have gone before me.

 

[bcolvin]

@Hammer45 let us know how it goes. I’m about ready to redo mine after a leak. I used the Toyota fipg and felt like it all went in well but a week later still leaking more than I like.

 

[Hammer45]

@Hammer45 let us know how it goes. I’m about ready to redo mine after a leak. I used the Toyota fipg and felt like it all went in well but a week later still leaking more than I like.

I likely won’t be up and running for a few months. And that’s maybe a bit hopeful…

 

[cps432]

@Hammer45 let us know how it goes. I’m about ready to redo mine after a leak. I used the Toyota fipg and felt like it all went in well but a week later still leaking more than I like.

It might be leaking from behind the timing plate.