Show off your Northeast/Midwest Rust-Free Hundy (1 Viewer)

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Yeah - but seriously - that's more than just spraying it with hose. What you got goin on over there?

Degreaser in a foam canon and a 15* pressure washer nozzle. I do spritz it with some Meg's Hyperdressing if I'm feeling fancy, hence the sheen.

Here's before degreasing. All of what looks like rust is GA clay and mud/road residue. I found a mix of foamy car soap, Murphy's Oil soap, and degreaser took care of the clay stains.

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Reported!
 
This truck is an 06, 245k miles. I’ve had it through two winters. It was not previously treated in any way. It only has specs of rust from little chips in paint on the frame. This vehicle was also not that well maintained before I purchased it and looked like it had not seen a bath in years. Cosmetically mint was my goal and this truck is perfect inside and out. Mechanically now as well. The first winter of ownership I would spray it down with water after salt. The second winter , I sprayed the crap out if it. Fluid film is thinner and blaster shield is the same product with petroleum added so it stays wetter. I sprayed everywhere the 1/8 inch tube and nozzle would fit. The only areas that may have seen new flash rust is where I missed completely otherwise the films flow all over. Finally did this because I could not find a service offering it, and my German cars all use cosmoline and have zero rust. Happy to answer whatever as I did a lot of reading before spraying.

Also, these pics are after one mild pressure wash of the dirty fluid film so I could inspect seals and engine and tranny and reapply for this year. If I do all blaster shield, it will likely last at least two years even with occasional cleaning of the underbody with a regular hose.

Gary

Gary thanks for the info - I have a 2006 LC with about 100K less millage but a lot more rust. Will definitely follow a protocol similar to your with my next vehicle. So if I understand correctly, you acquired the 2006 from North Carolina two years ago in basically rust-free condition. The first winter, you did not treat it other than to spray the underside with water after being exposed to road salt. The second winter you sprayed with fluid film prior to the winter season.

Some questions about the coming winter (2022-2023)

1. For this winter, are you planning on using Fluid Film or Blaster Surface Shield? Applied via aerosol can or air or airless paint sprayer? If paint sprayer, what kind of setup are you using? Will you do anything prior to the next application other than washing off dirt and dust from the frame?

2. When you spray these products I assume you hit all non-moving mechanical parts. Any trouble with rubber hoses, gaskets, bushings, etc?

3. I have heard some vehicles rust from inside the frame - any trouble reaching these spots?
 
For the guys from Georgia and Arkansas your rigs look like they being on museums - I take it no road salt in these states ;)
 
For the guys from Georgia and Arkansas your rigs look like they being on museums - I take it no road salt in these states ;)
Correct. No salt in the area where I live.
 
OK, I'll play ball. 2001 imported from SoCal last year. Immediately covered in NHOil treatment and so far has survived the first winter just fine!

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Has anybody used New Hampshire Oil on their rig? It seems to be pretty popular here in North East. They have mobile services will come home and spray that black goodness all over the Land Cruiser. My car has been 16 years in Massachusetts and has some rust nothing to be worry about but nothing to be proud of.
 
A local authorized dealer
 
Degreaser in a foam canon and a 15* pressure washer nozzle. I do spritz it with some Meg's Hyperdressing if I'm feeling fancy, hence the sheen.

Here's before degreasing. All of what looks like rust is GA clay and mud/road residue. I found a mix of foamy car soap, Murphy's Oil soap, and degreaser took care of the clay stains.

View attachment 3097093








Reported!

Sweet, I am going to try your method. Thanks! 🍻
 
Gary thanks for the info - I have a 2006 LC with about 100K less millage but a lot more rust. Will definitely follow a protocol similar to your with my next vehicle. So if I understand correctly, you acquired the 2006 from North Carolina two years ago in basically rust-free condition. The first winter, you did not treat it other than to spray the underside with water after being exposed to road salt. The second winter you sprayed with fluid film prior to the winter season.

Some questions about the coming winter (2022-2023)

1. For this winter, are you planning on using Fluid Film or Blaster Surface Shield? Applied via aerosol can or air or airless paint sprayer? If paint sprayer, what kind of setup are you using? Will you do anything prior to the next application other than washing off dirt and dust from the frame?

2. When you spray these products I assume you hit all non-moving mechanical parts. Any trouble with rubber hoses, gaskets, bushings, etc?

3. I have heard some vehicles rust from inside the frame - any trouble reaching these spots?
Your first assessment is correct. I really wanted to get it in there the first year but just didn’t plan it well.

1. Because I have the gun and a gallon of fluid film sitting here, I will likely try that first. If it flows well and sprays nice, and the pb blastershield is available bulk, I may hit the more exposed areas with blaster through the gun. However the hoses on the fluid film official gun will not fit in the small holes around the truck in the doors etc, and I’m currently unwilling to add any more holes. Ymmv. I will use cans of the blaster shield in the smallest holes. I purchased the graffiti adapters as well as two spray nozzles with small tubes attached to adapt both types of fluids. One was plastic and one brass. The plastic will work better in the warm weather and the brass in the cold weather with the cans. You can coat the whole truck with adapters for less than the cost of the gun... it would take many gallons and lots of time saved to change that equation. Cans are as fast as you can spray and move them.
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For which product goes where, the fluid film creeps and mostly looks dry after getting the dirt film (needed) and the blaster still looks dripping wet. Blaster smells less but both are very similar. Fluid film is available in black, as are others but not blaster. I’ve seen the blaster described as fluid film and Vaseline mixed together.

2. I sprayed every metal object, and did not worry about any rubbers that contact oil as a part of their job. Make sure you do not spray areas with cosmetic or porous rubber. Those are the ones that can swell. I sprayed and sprayed;) obviously not on confessors, belts, rotors, etc, but everywhere safe in my head.

3. With the small adapter tube for the cans, I could reach every inch of the vehicle. Frame was coated inside out and front to back as that was a primary goal.
 
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Sweet, I am going to try your method. Thanks! 🍻
This is exactly what I do for cleaning, though no oil soap. The foam cannon, thick foam of almost strait degreaser and the a 15degree nozzle on a 3000 plus psi pressure washer. An undercarriage cleaner is very helpful.
 
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A question to folks on the snow belt: If you were to drive the truck on dry winter days only (no snowy, rainy, wet road), does the truck still get rusty? (i.e. Does the dust/dry residue from after-snow treatment cause any rust also?)
Thanks!
 
A question to folks on the snow belt: If you were to drive the truck on dry winter days only (no snowy, rainy, wet road), does the truck still get rusty? (i.e. Does the dust/dry residue from after-snow treatment cause any rust also?)
Thanks!

Yes, but a little less so.
 
A question to folks on the snow belt: If you were to drive the truck on dry winter days only (no snowy, rainy, wet road), does the truck still get rusty? (i.e. Does the dust/dry residue from after-snow treatment cause any rust also?)
Thanks!
If salt goes on the road, its there until it rains probably an inch. Rust happens during temperature changes and during wet dry cycles. We get lots of brine solution that hangs around because its put on even when it may be icy and then its not washed away, its just sticky salt that covers the truck, then the truck gets wet with the salt attached and you have the start of corrosion. Same thing can happen from certain types of soils depending on mineral content, repeatedly getting wet while stuck in the frame or bumper etc.
 
Here’s mine:
2006-2009 resided in Southern California initial registration was Newport Beach CA.
2009-2019 Houston TX based.
2019-present Las Vegas NV based.
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Maintenance: annual 8-10 hour undercarriage detailing esp after NorCal/Lake Tahoe holiday trips.
 
OK, I'll play ball. 2001 imported from SoCal last year. Immediately covered in NHOil treatment and so far has survived the first winter just fine!

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Never heard of this company - according to the map on their website, not only are they in New England but all over the world. From the looks of it they do a pretty good job - approximately how much does a yearly service cost?
 
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Your first assessment is correct. I really wanted to get it in there the first year but just didn’t plan it well.

1. Because I have the gun and a gallon of fluid film sitting here, I will likely try that first. If it flows well and sprays nice, and the pb blastershield is available bulk, I may hit the more exposed areas with blaster through the gun. However the hoses on the fluid film official gun will not fit in the small holes around the truck in the doors etc, and I’m currently unwilling to add any more holes. Ymmv. I will use cans of the blaster shield in the smallest holes. I purchased the graffiti adapters as well as two spray nozzles with small tubes attached to adapt both types of fluids. One was plastic and one brass. The plastic will work better in the warm weather and the brass in the cold weather with the cans. You can coat the whole truck with adapters for less than the cost of the gun... it would take many gallons and lots of time saved to change that equation. Cans are as fast as you can spray and move them.View attachment 3097906View attachment 3097907View attachment 3097908View attachment 3097909For which product goes where, the fluid film creeps and mostly looks dry after getting the dirt film (needed) and the blaster still looks dripping wet. Blaster smells less but both are very similar. Fluid film is available in black, as are others but not blaster. I’ve seen the blaster described as fluid film and Vaseline mixed together.

2. I sprayed every metal object, and did not worry about any rubbers that contact oil as a part of their job. Make sure you do not spray areas with cosmetic or porous rubber. Those are the ones that can swell. I sprayed and sprayed;) obviously not on confessors, belts, rotors, etc, but everywhere safe in my head.

3. With the small adapter tube for the cans, I could reach every inch of the vehicle. Frame was coated inside out and front to back as that was a primary goal. Thanks again for sharing this information. So basically spray using the gun where ever possible, and then use the cans and graffiti adapters for hard-to-reach areas like inside the frame.

Thanks for sharing this - great information. So basically spray everywhere using the gun as much as possible, then use cans and graffiti adapters for the hard-to-reach places like inside the frame. Based on the results sounds like a job well done.
 
Oh, hi. RP-342 (Cosmoline) user here. I’m in Minnesota where winter is long and the salt and brine is nasty

I bought a 99% rust free, one-owner 2007 LX from NC in July 2021. I spent a couple hours and 6 cans coating any metal part under the truck in fall of 2021. I also filled each frame rail with a can of Fluid Film since it creeps far better than RP-342.

I used the little red plastic extensions plus a 360 degree nozzle on a 36” extension to reach hard to get spots. I am gearing up to do the yearly fall application again soon.

One winter down and it held up very well. Sorry for all words and no pics.
 

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