Show off your 100 beast with 35's.....

[Rodgie81]

If you go from 33" to 35" realistically you are only gaining 25.4mm ride height.... i can't really see much of an advantage.... am i missing something??

2" diameter increase only gives you 1" ride height increase....... Correct?

I guess it just looks tougher

 

[Rodgie81]

If you go from 33" to 35" realistically you are only gaining 25.4mm ride height.... i can't really see much of an advantage.... am i missing something??

2" diameter increase only gives you 1" ride height increase....... Correct?

I guess it just looks tougher

 

[3D FJ]

285/75/18 Toyo OC ATII

 

[Rodgie81]

Ok it looks like it will work on the sand but what is it like on harsh terrain? Does it rub a lot?

You still don't explain how 25.4mm of ride height has been of benefit to you....

Cheers

 

[tabraha]

If you go from 33" to 35" realistically you are only gaining 25.4mm ride height.... i can't really see much of an advantage.... am i missing something??

2" diameter increase only gives you 1" ride height increase....... Correct?

I guess it just looks tougher

Why then does one even bother to go to 33" over stock? (Answer: Because clearance is always a game of inches...) Even doing something wild like portals is still playing a game of inches. I look at 35's as basically having close to a 33" tire once aired down for a trail anyhow.

 

[Rodgie81]

285/75/18 Toyo OC ATII

 

[Rodgie81]

Why then does one even bother to go to 33" over stock? (Answer: Because clearance is always a game of inches...) Even doing something wild like portals is still playing a game of inches. I look at 35's as basically having close to a 33" tire once aired down for a trail anyhow.

I get your point, i have 33 inch on my 100 series because they were on there when i bought it. I was simply stating that why would you put a tyre on that is going to rub like a bastard for 1" extra. It seems like you sacrifice a lot for 1".

1. Speedo correction.
2. reduced turning circle.
3. horrible noise of tyres rubbing "like a bastard" constantly...
4. reduction in onroad performance... gearing etc...

I am asking all of these questions because i am considering putting 35's on but everyone i talk to advises against it, or informs me that as soon as their 35's wear down, they are going back to 33's.

Yet to hear a positive word about 35's on a 100 series IFS, other than "It looks tough"

Thanks for your reply

Rodgie81

 

[Rodgie81]

Why then does one even bother to go to 33" over stock? (Answer: Because clearance is always a game of inches...) Even doing something wild like portals is still playing a game of inches. I look at 35's as basically having close to a 33" tire once aired down for a trail anyhow.

Remember we are talking IFS not live axle. Portals are only good for live

 

[GregLCA]

Remember we are talking IFS not live axle. Portals are only good for live

Did someone here say Portals on a live-axle 4x4 ....???

It's all a game of inches..... and it's also a game of "diminishing returns" when you are chasing ground clearance.

That portal-axled 1972 Blazer has been (and continues to be) a tremendous sinkhole of time, money and effort. The ground clearance (under the diff) is phenomenal, the breakover angle and underbelly clearances are insane.... but if you were to plot the $$$$ per "extra inch" of ground clearance, the graph is non-linear and I dare say exponential!!!!

It is tough-looking though.


-G

 

[Rodgie81]

As i

Did someone here say Portals on a live-axle 4x4 ....???

It's all a game of inches..... and it's also a game of "diminishing returns" when you are chasing ground clearance.

That portal-axled 1972 Blazer has been (and continues to be) a tremendous sinkhole of time, money and effort. The ground clearance (under the diff) is phenomenal, the breakover angle and underbelly clearances are insane.... but if you were to plot the $$$$ per "extra inch" of ground clearance, the graph is non-linear and I dare say exponential!!!!

It is tough-looking though.


-G

Like i said in my last message. I do not have a live axle. I am looking for solutions for a IFS, which means, independant front suspension.
You're right it's a game of inches but as i think you would agree, there is no point putting 35's on a truck if it is right on the border of fitting. This will compromise the performance of the vehicle. like you said cost versus gain is just not worth it on a 100 series with IFS. You're better off wasting your money on a supercharger or something silly like that

I do like the portals on a solid axle though.

In finishing, i knew what i was getting into when i bought a 100 series IFS petrol V8 and i bought it with on/offroad performance in mind. The 2 UZ-FE/Auto combination way outperforms the 1HZ manual in nearly every aspect other than hill decents. The HDJ100 would have been nice but the extra 15k wasn't worth it.

Supercharger here we come

 

[GregLCA]

As i


Like i said in my last message. I do not have a live axle. I am looking for solutions for a IFS, which means, independant front suspension.
You're right it's a game of inches but as i think you would agree, there is no point putting 35's on a truck if it is right on the border of fitting.

I agree.

Regardless of the vehicle, there is always a "sweet spot" for modifications where you can achieve a substantial improvement in performance for reasonable money. Call it the "80/20 Rule" or "Point of Diminishing Returns" or whatever you'd like.... the problem with humans (or at least 4x4 enthusiasts) is that even though we usually know where that point is, we ignore it and try to get "just a little more". Whether it's tire diameter, shock travel, HP/TQ, etc.

As a casual visitor to this site, it seems like the stock tires (~31") can be upgraded to around 33" and stay within the "diminishing returns" realm. I'd be willing to bet that even among the enthusiasts here.... 80% of the trucks are still on a stock size tire, only 15% are on 33" sizes, and maybe 5% are in the 35" size.


-G

 

[Newps]

Most 35's cause problems with our rigs due to their width (12 inches +) under full compression. What you want is a 35 inch tall tire that is only 11 inches wide.

Nitto Trail Grappler LT285/75R18 E Height 35.08 Width 11.26

I am running,

Nitto Trail Grappler LT295/70R18 E Height 34.57 Width 11.73

I don't think the 285's were available when I bought mine or I would have gotten them.

 

[Rodgie81]

I agree.

Regardless of the vehicle, there is always a "sweet spot" for modifications where you can achieve a substantial improvement in performance for reasonable money. Call it the "80/20 Rule" or "Point of Diminishing Returns" or whatever you'd like.... the problem with humans (or at least 4x4 enthusiasts) is that even though we usually know where that point is, we ignore it and try to get "just a little more". Whether it's tire diameter, shock travel, HP/TQ, etc.

As a casual visitor to this site, it seems like the stock tires (~31") can be upgraded to around 33" and stay within the "diminishing returns" realm. I'd be willing to bet that even among the enthusiasts here.... 80% of the trucks are still on a stock size tire, only 15% are on 33" sizes, and maybe 5% are in the 35" size.


-G

Thanks for the help mate i think i am the guy that knows how far to push the boundaries. I worked at Toyota for the period from 1997 to 2005 so i know the 100 series and their limitations well. Thus the reasoning behind leaning towards staying with 33" Tyres. The only reason i would like 35" is to make the car look a little meaner. As to their functionality i'm only wanting a tyre that doesn't cause problems...

I am serious about the installation of a bullet supercharger and that is in the ballpark of 14k so i think i'll stick with my 33" tyres and beef up the HP for s***s and giggles.

Thanks again Greg

 

[Rodgie81]

Most 35's cause problems with our rigs due to their width (12 inches +) under full compression. What you want is a 35 inch tall tire that is only 11 inches wide.

Nitto Trail Grappler LT285/75R18 E Height 35.08 Width 11.26

I am running,

Nitto Trail Grappler LT295/70R18 E Height 34.57 Width 11.73

I don't think the 285's were available when I bought mine or I would have gotten them.

Thanks mate i'll check this out but can you give me a little more information.
1. Does it reduce the turning circle?
2. Does it restrict wheel travel?
3. Does it need a speedo correction? I think it would.
4. Does it effect the vehicle performance?

Cheers Rodgie

 

[JURELCATCHER]

 

[tabraha]

Thanks mate i'll check this out but can you give me a little more information.
1. Does it reduce the turning circle?
2. Does it restrict wheel travel?
3. Does it need a speedo correction? I think it would.
4. Does it effect the vehicle performance?

Cheers Rodgie

1. Some crank in the steering stops slightly, I have not had to so I turn pretty much like stock. Others have added spacers too depending on the tire/wheel offset combo and UCA package they are using so that could affect it slightly. There are so many combos available that the circumstances vary.

2. No. My 285/75R18's stuff fine with a 2" Ironman Lift, many do a 1" body lift also though... I in fact bought one anticipating rubbing without it but never installed it as I haven't needed to yet. I've stuffed the tires at full lock and I have had only the slightest of scrubbing then. VERY slight and VERY rarely.

3. Yes, unless you regear which puts you back fairly accurate.

4. Yes, unfortunately not much grunt without regearing although SC could alleviate that I would think. Most will do air lockers and regear at the same time.

Hope that helps.

 

[Rodgie81]

1. Some crank in the steering stops slightly, I have not had to so I turn pretty much like stock. Others have added spacers too depending on the tire/wheel offset combo and UCA package they are using so that could affect it slightly. There are so many combos available that the circumstances vary.

2. No. My 285/75R18's stuff fine with a 2" Ironman Lift, many do a 1" body lift also though... I in fact bought one anticipating rubbing without it but never installed it as I haven't needed to yet. I've stuffed the tires at full lock and I have had only the slightest of scrubbing then. VERY slight and VERY rarely.

3. Yes, unless you regear which puts you back fairly accurate.

4. Yes, unfortunately not much grunt without regearing although SC could alleviate that I would think. Most will do air lockers and regear at the same time.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the tips mate i'll look into it! I think a Bullet Supercharger kit has taken priority for now

Cheers

 

[sonk76]

I know that 35's come with their own challenges and require more investment to make them work (33" is a more "natural" size for these rigs). That said, you are fooling yourself if you don't think it makes a big difference on more challenging terrain. Like someone pointed out the change from 31 to 33: in my experience the incremental gain is just as big from 33 to 35.

That said if a bunch of forest service roads is all that is on the docket then 33's are probably a much better option (heck, the 31's would probably get the job done)

 

[Rodgie81]

I know that 35's come with their own challenges and require more investment to make them work (33" is a more "natural" size for these rigs). That said, you are fooling yourself if you don't think it makes a big difference on more challenging terrain. Like someone pointed out the change from 31 to 33: in my experience the incremental gain is just as big from 33 to 35.

That said if a bunch of forest service roads is all that is on the docket then 33's are probably a much better option (heck, the 31's would probably get the job done)

Agreed. thanks for your input.

Cheers Rodgie

 

[redman333]

Any of you guys with 35s heading to the overland expo east this year. Would love to see one in person with 35s. I barely see any LCs in my area period much less on 35s.