Show off your 100 beast with 35's.....

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hey i'm going this year but I don't have 35 any ideas of a possible map for the camp set up??? do you know any other LC/LX going so we can have a little area? Besides tires I'm basically stock; really looking forward to see all the gear out there before I start my build. I had a 200 series LX but sold it recently.
 
I know there are some going. There's a post about it in the events tab and I saw a few that said they were going. As far as a map of the grounds I have no idea I'm only heading up for the day on sat. I'm either taking my disc 2 or riding with a friend in his excursion. I don't even have a LC/LX yet. If I can find one I like before the expo I'll surely drive it though. This will be the first year I've been so I'm mainly going just to see what it's all about.
 
There is a Venue Grounds Map that indicates two camping sites but not super detailed .. On overland website (east)

Can't make it this year even though NC is my home state
 
hope its better weather then the one over on the west coast; they had rain/sleet/snow lol. bringing some mud boots just incase
 
For those that damage cv shafts. Can anything be done to correct or strengthen the CVs.

Those that broke the front diff, did the R&P fail or something else. What needs to be stronger in order to hold the torque.


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The consensus on CVs - based on feedback from those that tried aftermarket on the board - is to stay with OEM.
 
I wonder if a company like driveshaft shop could make a stronger set of do shafts to be able to perform at these angles and not fail early.


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Personally, i'd want my weakest link of the drivetrain to be relatively inexpensive and easy to fix. There is an argument out there that says if you strengthen the cv axles, then something else down the line will break if something were to break.
 
Personally, i'd want my weakest link of the drivetrain to be relatively inexpensive and easy to fix. There is an argument out there that says if you strengthen the cv axles, then something else down the line will break if something were to break.
I completely agree that when you strengthen one component then the you highlight the next weakest link. My goad would be to eliminate all of the weak links so that if you choose to run 35s or even larger then everyone would know what needs to be replaced. Also by doing this then you would have a reliable rig that can run hard obstacles and be reliable. Meaning I can drive across country to run the rubicon trail and still drive home in the same rig and confidently do so.


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I completely agree that when you strengthen one component then the you highlight the next weakest link. My goad would be to eliminate all of the weak links so that if you choose to run 35s or even larger then everyone would know what needs to be replaced. Also by doing this then you would have a reliable rig that can run hard obstacles and be reliable. Meaning I can drive across country to run the rubicon trail and still drive home in the same rig and confidently do so.


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Other than maybe cryo-treating the OEM ring and pinion, what do you realistically expect to do? Are you looking to build custom gearsets or 3rd Members?? :hmm:



-G
 
Why do they fail would be the question. Is it that the ring gear is thin, weak metal, housing flex, too large a ratio that the pinion is small.


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Why do they fail would be the question. Is it that the ring gear is thin, weak metal, housing flex, too large a ratio that the pinion is small.


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Good questions.

Sheared teeth could be the result of a number of things, but the basic premise is that the original vehicle was designed for a smaller tire with less traction, and other driveline parts that were smaller/weaker to insure that the breakage happened in parts that are easier to replace.

You can't do much with the factory parts.... the metallurgy is what it is. You can cyro the gears to gain maybe 10-15% more strength, but there's not much you can do if the pinion is deflecting under load (does the Toyota 3rd have a bearing support on both ends of the pinion?)

Ultimately, it just seems like a really expensive R&D project to try to find marginal strength improvements in the OEM design. I suspect this is why the really hardcore guys decide it's actually less work to do a SAS swap with a beefy aftermarket axle.

:hmm:

-G
 
I should be putting these bad boys on my hundy soon. Not exactly 35s but they are close at 34.6.

295/70 Nitto MTs on Tundra 18" steelies

Tires.01.jpg
 
Remember we are talking IFS not live axle. Portals are only good for live ;)

Actually there are examples of IFS with portals, i.e. I think Hummer H1
 
Good questions.

Sheared teeth could be the result of a number of things, but the basic premise is that the original vehicle was designed for a smaller tire with less traction, and other driveline parts that were smaller/weaker to insure that the breakage happened in parts that are easier to replace.

You can't do much with the factory parts.... the metallurgy is what it is. You can cyro the gears to gain maybe 10-15% more strength, but there's not much you can do if the pinion is deflecting under load (does the Toyota 3rd have a bearing support on both ends of the pinion?)

Ultimately, it just seems like a really expensive R&D project to try to find marginal strength improvements in the OEM design. I suspect this is why the really hardcore guys decide it's actually less work to do a SAS swap with a beefy aftermarket axle.

:hmm:

-G
Sheered teeth could be a flex in the housing which could create a gap and break the teeth off. There are ways to brace a diff housing to hold it in its intended place. I understand the vehicle was never intended for 35s which is fine but there are tons of examples of vehicles that are doing things that it was never intended on doing from the factory. It's really about whether you are willing and able to make the needed corrections to make it work for your intended uses.


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