Show me how you’ve mounted your under hood electrical accessories

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The 75 DZ fridge is a power hog... That said I leave it on 24/7/365 and get a couple days on it.

Ideally I should swap the 35 to mains duty and run the 31 as the aux but I'm down the road on the setup and more than a tad lazy. :)
Thanks for the feedback. I have single zone arb 63qt. Does pretty well being single zone. Of course all depends on where you run it. Colorado mountains that are cool at night the fridge barely runs so most of my trips I should be able to get at least a couple days on a group 35 AGM based on what you see with. 75 DZ. I just would really like to get the added capacity of lithium as well as weight savings but of course that is the same wish as everyone with a DB set up. Will be interesting to see how lithium technology progresses. With the RedArc bcdc it’s awesome how you can adjust chemistry if your needs change as well as run multiple chemistries. I also thought of switching main to aux and aux to main to get the group 31 as the aux but I just don’t think it makes sense for potential issues down the road as well as warranty.
 
YOU said you wanted to See!

In terms of switches and connections I prefer the non-solid state. I like to be able to troubleshoot and repair on my own. I've seen a few of the SS types fail on trail and somebodies fridge dies and the lights aren't working. Just my preference.
I’m only using SS (SP-9100) for lights and rear power outlets. Fridge is getting dedicated fuses power with redundant leads L & RHS. With compressor, aux fuel transfer, & winch feed off independent switches/relayed circuits.
 
Main fuse box tap points: SP T1 on hi beam fuse, SP T2 (panel dimming) on low beam fuse, SP IGN source, rear fog light trigger soldered to Term 3 of front fog relay (used to prevent rear fog light activating without front fogs on, regardless of SP control). Air compressor relay power and under hood lighting now moved to a independent fuse block along with taps for dedicated freezer power and for a fuel transfer pump for when a future LRF tank is installed.

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@RobRed I was looking at the TrekBoxx website, and I don't see those underhood mounting plates. Were they a special order item?
David and I designed them together as one-offs... however the CAD exists so he can produce more if he's in a good mood. Just call David -

@TrekboxX
 
I saw/heard there were issues hooking Lithium Batteries directly to the alternator charging system. If the lithium was degraded too much and you started the vehicle it could burn up the alternator by overheating it.
For that reason on mine I put a dc to dc between the charging system and the lithium.

@VooDoo2 What are your thoughts on the lithium issue I just mentioned?
 
I saw/heard there were issues hooking Lithium Batteries directly to the alternator charging system. If the lithium was degraded too much and you started the vehicle it could burn up the alternator by overheating it.
For that reason on mine I put a dc to dc between the charging system and the lithium.

@VooDoo2 What are your thoughts on the lithium issue I just mentioned?
Race cars have been using LFP batteries for over a decade, they have been standard fitment on a number of sports cars now for almost 10 years. No special alternators, I’ve not had one die in my 10 years of ownerships. Just make sure your battery has a BMS whether internal or external as they used to be.
 
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I ran 4 gauge under hood for my self jump and BCDC - silicone sheathed copper welding wire.

As I recall, people don't like the heavy power wires up by the radiator because of accident damage risks, but it works for me.

Everything is on Slee trays.

Yes, the Switchpros is way under utilized so far in this build (only using it for self-jump) but it will get additional items added as I continue the build (I had it left over from my previous 200).
Real nice, Clark
 
I saw/heard there were issues hooking Lithium Batteries directly to the alternator charging system. If the lithium was degraded too much and you started the vehicle it could burn up the alternator by overheating it.
For that reason on mine I put a dc to dc between the charging system and the lithium.

@VooDoo2 What are your thoughts on the lithium issue I just mentioned?

With most lithium's you cannot charge via alternator. We have designed a system tat can and at upto 200amp direct

This is car off (Fridge on)
Starting off the lithiums
Idle @ 100a
Driving off 193.7a

 
Updated with more picture to post #64

 
What battery terminal and MRBF holder is that? Looks clean.
Looks like the Slee billet terminals ($149.00).


And also the matching plastic cover ($67.49).
 
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Looks like the Slee billet terminals ($149.00).


And also the matching plastic cover ($67.49).
Roger that, including the ridiculous prices.
 
These seem to be ok. I replaced my Slee kit extenders with these.

Are links to amazon not allowed? for f@@ks sake... amazon.com/gp/product/B08CGCWY72
Can someone clue me in on the issues with the slee battery terminals? Can't find it anywhere.
 
Can someone clue me in on the issues with the slee battery terminals? Can't find it anywhere.
Slee changed from an add-on extension piece for an oem terminal to billet pieces. They now make both a "long tail" version with post hole on end for aftermarket batteries with center terminal posts and a "short tail" unit with post hole centered to fit oem battery without too much overhang. This solved the only “issue” that I know of. Now some don’t like the price, but they are great designs with excellent material and craftsmanship.

*** Edit *** reviewing my photos remind me that I actually used a hybrid of terminal posts. I stayed with the Slee long on POS terminal but only switched to the short on the NEG terminal where space was an issue. Shorts would work in both positions, however i was too lazy to start over with something that worked.

1st and 2nd pictures are the "short tail" (my name, i forget what slee calls them). They do not come in black, I coated the POS terminal with electrical insulation rubber.

Third pic is the long tail negative terminal, you can see how it doesn't really fit a battery with posts near edge. Yes I purchased 4 different typical of posts SDHQ, ebay, and Slee original long and before settling on the slee short tails.

Fouth picture is as of now, my system is still a work in process. Some wiring harnesses in place, others not, some parts in place or in garage others backlogged. About only things running right now are internal center console usb ports and rear cargo area power outlets. Wires run for roof rack lighting but no rack, wires run for front grill OnX6 arc light, but no light. Air compressor ready to drop in, but until final aires run on drivers side, I can't block access to the firewall.

Last two are SwitchPro setup and terminal strip inside of RH Terminal Box lid, awaiting for my custom battery mount to hold its power supply (LFP aux battery).

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Slee changed from an add-on extension piece for an oem terminal to billet pieces. They now make both a "long tail" version with post hole on end for aftermarket batteries with center terminal posts and a "short tail" unit with post hole centered to fit oem battery without too much overhang. This solved the only “issue” that I know of. Now some don’t like the price, but they are great designs with excellent material and craftsmanship.

*** Edit *** reviewing my photos remind me that I actually used a hybrid of terminal posts. I stayed with the Slee long on POS terminal but only switched to the short on the NEG terminal where space was an issue. Shorts would work in both positions, however i was too lazy to start over with something that worked.

1st and 2nd pictures are the "short tail" (my name, i forget what slee calls them). They do not come in black, I coated the POS terminal with electrical insulation rubber.

Third pic is the long tail negative terminal, you can see how it doesn't really fit a battery with posts near edge. Yes I purchased 4 different typical of posts SDHQ, ebay, and Slee original long and before settling on the slee short tails.

Fouth picture is as of now, my system is still a work in process. Some wiring harnesses in place, others not, some parts in place or in garage others backlogged. About only things running right now are internal center console usb ports and rear cargo area power outlets. Wires run for roof rack lighting but no rack, wires run for front grill OnX6 arc light, but no light. Air compressor ready to drop in, but until final aires run on drivers side, I can't block access to the firewall.

Last two are SwitchPro setup and terminal strip inside of RH Terminal Box lid, awaiting for my custom battery mount to hold its power supply (LFP aux battery).

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FWIW SDHQ appears to have a decent, comparable terminal package available. I am curious if anyone has real world experience with that option? link below...

 
Can someone clue me in on the issues with the slee battery terminals? Can't find it anywhere.

The issue was that the lead military terminals and the aluminum extensions didn't play well together for some people (lead terminals would degrade). Having the all aluminum billeted terminals is a much better solution.





FWIW SDHQ appears to have a decent, comparable terminal package available. I am curious if anyone has real world experience with that option? link below...


I have them. They are great.
 
Finally upgraded my slee terminals and got the wiring somewhat under control

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