Show me how you’ve mounted your under hood electrical accessories

[82SC]

I know maybe about a fraction more than you

But all those seem like relatively low draw items. Probably one of the blue seas fuse boxes would be perfect for you. Like the ones above.

And you could install a small common ground bus bar to make it look neat. Could even mount the common ground bus bar on the chassis along the inside of the engine bay.

 

[CharlieS]

I think the ARB twin uses two 40 amp fuses, so the low amperage fuse box may not accommodate everything. The bcdc uses a 40 amp fuse on each battery, as does the sbi (or relay). Just food for thought... (for @borfoo3 s build, not @tbisaacs )

 

[tbisaacs]

I think the ARB twin uses two 40 amp fuses, so the low amperage fuse box may not accommodate everything. The bcdc uses a 40 amp fuse on each battery, as does the sbi (or relay). Just food for thought... (for @borfoo3 s build, not @tbisaacs )

It’s dark outside but pretty sure they are dual 60s. Big suckers.

 

[82SC]

Twin 40A for the arb compressor

Yeah I plan a small fuse box for low draw accessories and maybe a couple more of the bussman midi fuse holders all on the accessory Slee tray (rear passenger engine bay) that will then connect to the aux battery.

 

[bemerritt]

Here's what I plan on using

Amazon product ASIN B0053BTSEK

 

[82SC]

thats nice. Has the high capacity and lower capacity options too

I'm always thinking ahead of running out of space and needing modularity as my needs change.

But based on what my setup will be this would work great although I'd have a few empties on the plug fuse side
but this might be a great option when I set up my aux battery to run lights, rear power, usb charging ports etc...

 

[DesmoPilot]

I converted the ARB twin from the dual fuse setup to a single 80A MRBF setup. I did this on another build as well and it has worked well for me. I changed the dual positive leads to a single 4ga cable. Also changed the smallish gauge ground to 4ga.

 

[tbisaacs]

I converted the ARB twin from the dual fuse setup to a single 80A MRBF setup. I did this on another build as well and it has worked well for me. I changed the dual positive leads to a single 4ga cable. Also changed the smallish gauge ground to 4ga.

This is a really good idea. The out of the box harness is so complicated.

 

[82SC]

again as a self professed electric dummy

I'm curious about the conversion to one fuse. The reason for the 2 40's is to protect each compressor individually. Not sure upping the protection to 80 is okay.

The wiring harness can be simplified...but what I did was just tape over the connectors for the lockers.
And if you plan to use the LINX or Switch Pro, the physical switch is not needed.
I just didn't know if I'd ever upgrade to lockers in the future....and I think ARB charges an arm and a leg for a new harness.

plus with tape and looms you can hide the excess wires pretty easily

But I'd be cautious about combining the fuses....then you are allowing either compressor to go up to 80A before blowing the fuse and as they are protected to 40A from the factory that is likely where the upper limit should be....maybe use a single 40A? so either one can trip it if it gets to that point

 

[BIC JET]

Agreed, this looks nice but being an electrical dummy does this come with instructions? Do I need this in the back where all of my switches will be? Is it even a thing to have switches in the back for area lights and also in the front as well? ( your friend not Reddy Kilowatt). I am planning to run 4 ga to the back direct from the battery and then have this gadget in the back. Is this a good plan or a really dumb plan?

 

[CharlieS]

again as a self professed electric dummy

I'm curious about the conversion to one fuse. The reason for the 2 40's is to protect each compressor individually. Not sure upping the protection to 80 is okay.

The wiring harness can be simplified...but what I did was just tape over the connectors for the lockers.
And if you plan to use the LINX or Switch Pro, the physical switch is not needed.
I just didn't know if I'd ever upgrade to lockers in the future....and I think ARB charges an arm and a leg for a new harness.

plus with tape and looms you can hide the excess wires pretty easily

But I'd be cautious about combining the fuses....then you are allowing either compressor to go up to 80A before blowing the fuse and as they are protected to 40A from the factory that is likely where the upper limit should be....maybe use a single 40A? so either one can trip it if it gets to that point

I am also not an electrical guru, but just adding up the fuse values doesn't sound right.

My DIY'er understanding was the fuse was to protect the wires.

My understanding is that fuses are sized based on the wire gauge, whether they are inside/outside engine "room" and assumptions about operating temperature.

I use/printed out a chart from BlueSea's website for sizing fuses.
Article: https://www.bluesea.com/support/art..._Fuse_Holder_For_Your_DC_Product_Installation
and direct to chart:

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/Choose_the_Fuse_Amperage.jpg

In the case of a single wire 4 GA in the engine "room" BlueSea doesn't even have a MBRF fuse listed on that chart. They spec a 400 amp ANL type fuse, if I'm reading it right.

Here's a different chart to figure out wire sizes:
Article:

Part 1: Choosing the Correct Wire Size for a DC Circuit - Blue Sea Systems

Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance

www.bluesea.com

and direct to chart:

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

Again, I totally admit I'm not even remotely close to being an expert, and I'm open to learning.

 

[Climbermac]

Just to add from my experience with a dual ARB I've run extensively in another rig. The ARB dual is very much designed as two wholly independent compressors with very few exceptions; those being the pressure switch/internal pressure tank and it's associated on/off switch. Otherwise they function as two complete systems with fused power leads, relays and compressors. This allows for internal redundancy that is very effective in the even of failures. I had one relay or fuse blow numerous times over the last several years on my compressor and it simply drops me down to 1 vs 2... irritating but not an all stop. Replacement parts are also fairly easily acquired as they are they are pretty standardized and interchangeable. There are always other ways to skin a cat but I'm putting another dual ARB in my new LX pretty soon....solid design. YMMV

 

[yonah]

@DesmoPilot - If I can offer a recommendation. The wire harnesses attached to your Switch Pro (especially the one on the right) are making very aggressive 90* angles right at the connector. My fear is over time engine vibration and contact with the OEM fuse box will begin to crack the wires in that right harness - which will lead to a fracture in the wire itself or at the wire/connector pin junction. I would recommend rerouting the harness or relocating the Switch Pro to alleviate this bend.

Just a thought from a guy that enjoys electrical work, but has made some mistakes over the years.

 

[VooDoo2]

No accessories underbonnet, just twin lithiums. Blueseas power distrubution, 2000w invertor / 80a charger, 250a of solar, Compressor in rear wing

 

[82SC]

I’m so jealous of the Diesel engines coolant reservoir that accommodates the PS reservoir. I’m trying to figure out a way to do that on a US spec truck. @bjowett did almost a full conversion.

 

[TeCKis300]

Underhood is a bit dirty but here's how it's setup. SwitchPros on driver fender. Red switch for underhood lights. All engine covers fit back.

I’m so jealous of the Diesel engines coolant reservoir that accommodates the PS reservoir. I’m trying to figure out a way to do that on a US spec truck. @bjowett did almost a full conversion.

Are you looking to make space for a second battery?

Here's a hack that could help

Power Steering Relocation Bracket and Dual OBA

Having done a power steering relocation mod recently for a yet to be completed twinz project, thought this would be useful for others on how to create a simple and effective relocation bracket. I know others have needed to relocate the PS for other reasons, including fitting dual batts. Here's...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[82SC]

Yeah. Unfortunately shifting the PS there still limits you to 35 and smaller….

Here’s my fuse panel installed

You can see how I ran the wiring under the side panel. Using grommets like this

 

[TeCKis300]

^Nicely done. Never realized how much space was there behind the beauty panel.

 

[tbisaacs]

Yeah. Unfortunately shifting the PS there still limits you to 35 and smaller….

Here’s my fuse panel installed

View attachment 2795964View attachment 2795966

You can see how I ran the wiring under the side panel. Using grommets like this

I’m doing this and the Blue Sea safety hub that @CharlieS suggested. Just the tidy that I’m looking for.

 

[DesmoPilot]

@DesmoPilot - If I can offer a recommendation. The wire harnesses attached to your Switch Pro (especially the one on the right) are making very aggressive 90* angles right at the connector. My fear is over time engine vibration and contact with the OEM fuse box will begin to crack the wires in that right harness - which will lead to a fracture in the wire itself or at the wire/connector pin junction. I would recommend rerouting the harness or relocating the Switch Pro to alleviate this bend.
View attachment 2793563
Just a thought from a guy that enjoys electrical work, but has made some mistakes over the years.

Thank you for the concern. However, there is zero contact and isn't any tension on the wires. I do not foresee any issues.