Show me how you’ve mounted your under hood electrical accessories (2 Viewers)

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tbisaacs

It's basically a Land Cruiser
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Renton, WA
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When installing my lights and other accessories last fall I added some safety and convenience items like a cut off for the winch, a 6 slot blue sea panel, led lights, and a 100 amp breaker. All attached with two sided hook and loop tape on the fuse box.

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It works great but gives me heart burn every time I open the hood. It’s not complicated but looks messy. I’ve tried to tidy but haven’t come up with a good solution. Also the heat has loosened the tape quite a bit.

What are y’all doing? Definitely open to an SPOD / Switchpros but seems like I’d still have to solve mounting and cable management. Looking for some inspiration.
 
When installing my lights and other accessories last fall I added some safety and convenience items like a cut off for the winch, a 6 slot blue sea panel, led lights, and a 100 amp breaker. All attached with two sided hook and loop tape on the fuse box.

View attachment 2791050


It works great but gives me heart burn every time I open the hood. It’s not complicated but looks messy. I’ve tried to tidy but haven’t come up with a good solution. Also the heat has loosened the tape quite a bit.

What are y’all doing? Definitely open to an SPOD / Switchpros but seems like I’d still have to solve mounting and cable management. Looking for some inspiration
How is the winch switch secured?
 
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bantam X spod for accessories
custom bracket with blue sea circuit breakers to separate batteries / redarc bcdc1250D
1/0 awg marine wire to the rear to a blue sea circuit breaker & blue sea fuse block for the rear accessories
 
I like that top of fuse panel solution. I'm copying and collecting parts. Got a sweet new DMC crimper for solid Deutsch terminals I need to put to work.
 
Also, what gauge wires are you all running in the engine bay area? Getting ready for the BCDC 1225D install and the Redarc recommended AWG 6 wire feels a bit undersized for my taste.
 

I also found this little channel under the side trim where I plan to run some of the wiring to keep it tidy after I pad the edges of the triangular supports.


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I ran 4 gauge under hood for my self jump and BCDC - silicone sheathed copper welding wire.

As I recall, people don't like the heavy power wires up by the radiator because of accident damage risks, but it works for me.

Everything is on Slee trays.

Yes, the Switchpros is way under utilized so far in this build (only using it for self-jump) but it will get additional items added as I continue the build (I had it left over from my previous 200).
 
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View attachment 2791333View attachment 2791334View attachment 2791335

I ran 4 gauge under hood for my self jump and BCDC - silicone sheathed copper welding wire.

As I recall, people don't like the heavy power wires up by the radiator because of accident damage risks, but it works for me.

Everything is on Slee trays.

Yes, the Switchpros is way under utilized so far in this build (only using it for self-jump) but it will get additional items added as I continue the build (I had it left over from my previous 200).
Now this is zen 🧘‍♂️
 

I also found this little channel under the side trim where I plan to run some of the wiring to keep it tidy after I pad the edges of the triangular supports.


View attachment 2791331

This is a good find. This spot is really crowded for me right now
 
I found the Bluesea Safety Hub 100 panels are cool because they have four slots for both 1-20 amp ATO/ATC fused circuits as well as three high (30-200 amp) MIDI/AMI fuses (like for BCDC, self jump, Switchpros and even my air compressor). It is a compact unit that covers a lot of circuits. The downside is if you have more high amperage circuits, that's where those modular fuse holders really shine!


On the last build I ran a dual battery gauge off the low amperage fused connections, and in general it's good for any nearby/under hood light loads (under hood lighting for example) where you don't need a maxi fuse.

Winch is direct to the starting battery, although I have a ComeUp manual disconnect switch that I may mount one of these days when I have a free minute.
 
View attachment 2791333View attachment 2791334View attachment 2791335

I ran 4 gauge under hood for my self jump and BCDC - silicone sheathed copper welding wire.

As I recall, people don't like the heavy power wires up by the radiator because of accident damage risks, but it works for me.

Everything is on Slee trays.

Yes, the Switchpros is way under utilized so far in this build (only using it for self-jump) but it will get additional items added as I continue the build (I had it left over from my previous 200).

Could you line item everything you've used here?
 
Could you line item everything you've used here?
Hmm, I think this is everything I used (or close to it):
  • Switchpros 9100
  • Redarc BCDC1225
  • Redarc SBI (but removed isolator portion, so it is just a relay now)
  • ARB single compressor (wire harness pruned to minimal needs)
  • Wits End ARB Fitting Air Coupler Pacifier
  • Blue Sea Systems 7725 SafetyHub 100 (x2)
  • Blue Sea Systems 100 Amp Mini BusBar
  • Blue Sea Systems 8 circuit 30 amp terminal block
  • Blue Sea Systems L661-7100 50 Amp Waterproof Marine Circuit Breaker
  • Slee primary battery tray
  • Slee secondary battery tray
  • Slee BCDC mount
  • Slee accessory tray
  • Slee battery terminals (the older ones, not the work-of-art milled ones they sell now)
  • 4 Ga Red Welding Battery Pure Copper Flexible Cable Wire
  • 4 GA Black Welding Battery Pure Copper Flexible Cable Wire
  • Tinned Oxygen Free Copper Duplex 16/2 Dual Conductor Red/Black AC Marine Boat Battery Wire
  • Lots of copper terminal lugs in multiple sizes to fit posts
  • Lots of 1/2' Drossbach Hi-temp Split Loom
  • Various other braided and split loom to protect wires
  • Lots of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing
  • Lots of zip ties for wire/cable management (wish I had a better solution)
  • Heat shrink ring terminals and spade terminals
  • Tesa 51026 Heat Proof Engine Compartment Wiring Tape
  • Silicone boots (to cover terminals and military battery lugs)
  • Anderson SB50 connector (grey to mach my solar panel plug on my portable panels, solar should be the yellow connector: they're keyed different and don't mate)
  • Bussman add-a-tap circuit fuse tap (x2)
  • MIDI fuses
  • ATO fuses
  • (not seen) Slee sunglass mount for Switchpros switches
  • (not seen) Warn VR Evo 12 winch with synthetic line
  • (not seen) Blue Sea 5025 6 Position Fuse Block (cargo area power distribution)
  • (not seen) Blue Sea 4366 Water Resistant USB Accessory Panel (cargo area power distribution)
  • (not seen) Blue Sea 4365 Water Resistant USB Accessory Panel (cargo area power distribution)
 
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I installed a PowerTrays stand-off model on top of the Slee air compressor bracket. Compressor is fused using MRBF on dual Blue Sea fuse holder. The blank fuse next to it is for the 6ga power that I ran to the back of the vehicle.
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wiring.jpg
 
I like that top of fuse panel solution. I'm copying and collecting parts. Got a sweet new DMC crimper for solid Deutsch terminals I need to put to work.
i was thinking of doing the top o' the fuse box too, but wondered how hard it is to take the top off in case a fuse blows and I need to diagnose an issue.
That's why I went with a tray built above the battery.
 
Bussman fuse/relay block:

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Details on page1 and page2 of my build thread.
 
for wiring labeling I found these to be a nice neat cheap way
also can put clear heatshrink over it to really make it durable
I thought of using my dymo too but wondered how long the adhesive and printing would last
dymo also makes a label printer specifically for wires but it was pricy and the cartridges were too

Amazon product ASIN B00D8PO0QO
 
What is this product? Very interested
This is the model I am running. Power Trays

I drilled the Slee mount to accept this Power Tray. As of now, they are not making a Power Tray model specific to the LC200. I then had them make custom length power and ground cables for me.
 
I truly have no clue on this stuff but surely need some guidance. I currently have my ham radio direct to the battery (Fused). I need to connect the following:


National Luna dual 60 quart
Ham radio
ARB 7’ floods
side and rear area floods
CB radio
Trekboxx 12v outlet

I have the Group 31 AGM with no plans for a dual battery setup. Don’t expect to ever get a winch. So, any thoughts?
 

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