Should I swap to a gear reduction starter?

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I got a remaned Denso just need to know where I can pick up the proper connector.
 
Your spade connection should go to the spade on the new starter. The bullet is the now orphaned wire that goes to nothing. Put a meter on the wire, and turn the key to the start position. The one that shows voltage goes to the starter...by the picture it looks like it should be the spade connection.
 
Damn I'm an idiot it's just a spade connector in a fancy plug!! I didn't look at it close enough and thought it was a fancy pin connector.

Thanks for pointing that out @kurtnkegger! Well it's not going to be purdy but it'll prob work and now understand the plug and play! Well I'll knock out the instal tomorrow.

As usual it's MUD to the rescue.
 
I have an '83 FJ60 starter that came with the motor when I bought it. The motor is currently undergoing full rebuild. I have used the starter from my '70 FJ40 all along. It could use a bendix, but not a major problem. So while twiddling my thumbs waiting on the motor I pulled out the box that has the '83 starter and alternator in it. I noted right off that the cover on the cable/bolt from bendix to starter was torn nearly in half. Had a piece of blue electrical tape wrapped around it to sort of cover it. So where would a person find that little rubber part? From years of building motorcycles and needing unobtanium rubber parts I have used this approach with success and thought I would share it with Mud members.

I couldn't get tape to stick to the old piece. So I mixed up some plaster and scootched it into the old piece and shaped it as best I could. Then I stick a wire in it for a handle in the future. I waited a day for the plaster to harden and then cut off the old rubber. In the USA you can buy Plasti-Dip in a can. Here I was sent two cans of spray Plasti-Dip which I had never seen nor had any experience with. I used it to coat the rubbers that come through the firewall protecting wires. I still had half a can so that is what I had to work with. I smoothed the plaster with a pattern file where the old rubber was torn and the plaster was "proud." Then I smeared some vaseline on it and starting coating. The instructions are heavy coat, thirty minutes between coats, usually takes 3-4 coats. I knew I didn't have enough to do another part, so I did six coats and let that sit over night.

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The fun part is picking the plaster out of the rubber as you don't want to tear it or cut it. Wrap it in a towel and lightly tap it usually works. Not this time, so I just picked it out with a scribe. I think on a part like this the liquid Plasti-Dip is better, but it works and will do the job. At least a lot better than the old part.

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Could you also use the Flex Seal product advertised on TV?
 
Maybe, I don't know anything about it and here in Ecuador we are very limited on what products are available. The import duties are 35% plus 12% sales tax. As an example, I had to order valve springs and pushrods for the current engine rebuild and the shipping for those two separate packages came to $164. Since they were both under $400 and 4kg I did not have to pay customs duties or sales tax, however, when I sent down brake drums for the '70 I had to pay the duties. I still saved money, but for these reasons a car you would pay $20K for in the USA will cost you $40-45K here. The two cans of Plasti-Dip I bought two years ago cost me $50!
 
sounds about what shipping from SOR would be just across the state :)

Maybe, I don't know anything about it and here in Ecuador we are very limited on what products are available. The import duties are 35% plus 12% sales tax. As an example, I had to order valve springs and pushrods for the current engine rebuild and the shipping for those two separate packages came to $164. Since they were both under $400 and 4kg I did not have to pay customs duties or sales tax, however, when I sent down brake drums for the '70 I had to pay the duties. I still saved money, but for these reasons a car you would pay $20K for in the USA will cost you $40-45K here. The two cans of Plasti-Dip I bought two years ago cost me $50!
 
Could you also use the Flex Seal product advertised on TV?

Only if you're going to put the starter in a starter-shaped hole in the bottom of a row boat, and paddle around in a pond.
 
Only if you're going to put the starter in a starter-shaped hole in the bottom of a row boat, and paddle around in a pond.


Good one.. LOL! Just asked because it is a rubber based liquid.
 
Good one.. LOL! Just asked because it is a rubber based liquid.

It might be the best stuff in the world, for all I know - but his marketing is pretty hokey. My wife bought a can of it, but I've yet to try it on anything. It actually looks a lot like the product my house builder is applying to concrete to waterproof it, though that come in 5-gallon buckets.
 
Just adding my experience to the thread. I bought a remanufactured Ultima GR starter from Oreilly a year ago when my original died and I didn’t want to wait for a Denso. It’s as easy as everyone says to make the swap and an instant upgrade.

However, avoid the oreilly/Napa/etc product and just order through a Toyota dealership. It’s about the same price, and my Ultima already died. Oreilly was great about finding my order using my phone number and swapping it out with a new unit no questions asked, but we’ll see how long this one lasts. If the same thing happens, I’ll just try to get my money back and go to Toyota. Hell, I might just buy one now to have on hand.
 
I purchased a rebuilt starter from O'Reilly's and just asked for an FJ60 starter. I don't remember when I bought it or who re-built it for them. It was more than 10 years ago and it's still doing it's job with one stab of the key.
I agree with @baxter1234 about keeping an extra on hand, especially for a daily driver. I have a Toyota remanufactured unit sitting on a shelf.
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