Should I replace my radiator? (13 Viewers)

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But doesn't it seem odd that I'm not seeing coolant on the ground? Nothing within the engine bay seems wet or no signs of drops even after parking it overnight in my garage. I would assume if the system was using coolant that the overflow tank would be losing coolant daily, right?
 
I’ll keep reading, mostly to find out how many more posts it will take to replace a failing/defective radiator. Good luck.
I plan to replace the radiator, but it would be nice to see some sort of actual leak rather than just spending $425 on a new OE radiator.
 
Buy a cooling system pressure tester if you are not convinced the crusty radiator and crusty hoses are the source of your leak.
 
Coolant is seeping out of the top gasket and drying there. What more of a leak do you want to see?
If you're waiting until coolant is gushing out somewhere, it'll be too late, and bad things could happen.
 
The red crust is your sign of numerous leaks. The water content of the coolant has evaporated away because,... It's hot. When the liquid evaporates away, the crust remains. It evaporates before there's any drips on the ground.

Additionally, you're focused on the Coolant Overflow Tank, and while it seems to be receiving the expanding coolant and returning the contracting coolant, it's not a good indicator of coolant level overall, as the crust you show on the top tank seal is likely less than a cup of coolant, evaporating out the liquid, and leaving the residue.

At least we know your Radiator Cap is working as it should. Keep that and throw it in your glove box as a known-good spare part (*but put a new Radiator Cap on your new Radiator regardless!).
 
@simpsoap

Edit: I basically repeated everything already said above, but maybe the OP will read one of them??


A small but constant leak as already discussed can dry up (the water component) leaving behind the reddish residue, and not have anything show up
on the ground. The leak could be from a leaking hose or hose connection, or a leaking radiator; either a crack in the top tank or even a failed O-ring (gasket) around the inside edge of the top plastic portion (tank) of the radiator.

If you haven't yet, I would scrub the red sludge off from the top of the radiator using a stiff brush, old toothbrush,etc, wash it off well, then dry it off.

As a test you could go ahead and replace the upper radiator hose and the clamps now, using Toyota parts.

With a new OEM hose, new OEM hose clamps and cleaned off radiator check the top of the radiator and hose connection just a few minutes after starting a cold engine. ie: get the engine up to operating temperature in your driveway idling, shut the engine off after say 20 minutes, look for a leak. Come back after 15 minutes and look again during the day. Already mentioned but you can add a DYE INTO RADIATOR which will glow under UV light, that will help finding a small leak.

Also already discussed but you could also buy (or rent at an Autoparts store) a cooling pressure tester and pump up the pressure in the cooling system yourself and look for the leak.




Do not wait a week or even a day of driving before you look for the leak, it should show up in minutes after the system gets hot and pressurized and/or after the engine is shut down.

If/when you replace the radiator you could replace the Thermostat (OEM part) if you don't know it's age.
 
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I plan to replace the radiator, but it would be nice to see some sort of actual leak rather than just spending $425 on a new OE radiator.
I completely understand.

Highly confident your radiator is leaking.

I've been driving my LC with a very similar weeping leak on the top of my OEM radiator for over 2 years. My radiator is currently 11 years old (so it started leaking at 9 yo).

I monitor my coolant level at least weekly. Mine is my DD.
Even though the overflow tank is right on, don't forget to confirm that the radiator is completely full as well.

My radiator looks about the same, and has for ~30K miles. After a full day of driving, I'll see fresh wet coolant but never drips.
I have a new OEM radiator in the box in my garage waiting for me to have time to do the swap.

Some additional things you need:
1) Foam strip between the radiator and radiator support on the front side. New OEM radiator comes with new foam strip.
2) Your bottom shield below the radiator is missing. This helps keep the air moving through the radiator and not around it.
3) I recommend the Toyota hose clamps and get away from the worm gear clamps. The worm gear can be overtightened and cause hose damage or be stripped and allow the hose to leak. That may actually be what's happening here. So, maybe new hoses and clamps first.

I will see my overflow tank be low after a long hard trip. I keep both coolant and distilled water in the truck so I always have resources. I also carry oil, grease guns, tools, and a few extra parts, but I will be on the road for sometimes months and I have to bet my life on my truck and I don't always have time to replace things properly, as I do all my own work. There's only one other guy I would trust and the line to his shop is VERY long.
 
I plan to replace the radiator, but it would be nice to see some sort of actual leak rather than just spending $425 on a new OE radiator.
read this link on how i made a pressure tester at home using a Schrader valve from a bike tube and a mountain bike shock pump - it solved the mystery of where my radiator was seeping coolant from a few years back
 

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