Should I regear? (1 Viewer)

[fireball]

Lrowe - thanks for the info. Did you have Iron Pig do the work? That's who I plan to have setup my front ARB when the time comes. Pretty sure I will not regear. I don't plan on going to 35s and since it's not a DD it's a crap-ton of money to spend.

The good news is that my indecision saved me $75 bucks! ARB $75 locker rebate through the end of the month.

 

[RobRed]

You are spending cash on all kinds of other things... why short change your build

 

[fireball]

You are spending cash on all kinds of other things... why short change your build

Well that's why I asked the question.... after researching and considering I think for my needs I don't want to regear. It's not a DD, and highway mileage/RPM is pretty important since used for long trips.

That said, I'd really love to drive a pre-'03 with 285s or 295s that has been regeared before making final decision. Anyone close to PA?

 

[spressomon]

My experience: Best mileage = 4.3 R&P (stock '98-'02) + OEM tire size.

MPG went down with 4.3 + 33"; AT shift points always felt more inefficient/under powered.

MPG: 4.88 + 35" = 4.3 + 33" (adjusted miles used for mpg calcs) AT shift points with 4.88 & 35" felt clearly 2nd best to stock.

I lived and base drove at ~4,500'...arguably skews the above experience compared to sea level FWIW.

 

[slimbuddha]

I'm at this point as well.. I have been running 33 since I purchased it, with stock gears so its all I have ever known. Just about ready to move onto my next set of tires and I am about 70-30 whether I stick with 33" or go to 35". Either way, I am considering re-gearing either later in the year or early next.

 

[fireball]

I think you definitely want to regear with 35s.

 

[CappyKD]

I put 35's on this past Christmas and my 100 is on the heavy side. With the 35's, in order to maintain a constant speed up hills, my truck downshifts and sits at 3800 rpm the whole way. The shift points for the trans are also all screwed up. I knew before I bought the tires that I would be re-gearing and putting 4.88's and F&R lockers in. I figured that if already planning for both lockers, the added cost of gears was nothing. I ordered pre setup 3rds from JT's with TJM lockers, Plug and Play if you will. They are being installed this week and I should have her back by Friday night. I am expecting to gain back all of the drivability that I lost. I can't wait until Friday to start breaking in the diffs. Come fall, I plan to have a set of the Marlin Crawler TC gears installed.

Fireball,

I'd let you try mine if you were coming to CM 2014, or if I were making a trip to eastern PA to see my Dad and Brother. I had 285/75r16's on for 30,000 miles and I didn't notice the need for gearing, until I switched to a set of 255/70/18 OEM Tundra tires and wheels (32"s) and felt the transmission shift different and the truck with more passing power. If I was going to stay with 33"s I would have still considered re-gearing to 4.56's if available. I learned with my 3 4Runner builds, that it's all about the gearing.

 

[fireball]

I don't believe 4.56 is available, is it? That would be just about perfect for 285/295s.

4.88 / 4.30 = 13.5%
315/75/16 = 34.6" diameter. 34.6/31.2 (Stock tire diameter) = 10.9%

4.56 / 4.30 = 6%
295/75/16 = 33.4/31.2 = 7.1%
285/75/16 = 32.8/31.2 = 5.1%

 

[yotasavg]

I learned with my 3 4Runner builds, that it's all about the gearing.

That's the truth right there, those little rigs will go and go on an under-powered motor if you gear it right. As for the 100... 4.56 would be my choice were it available.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

4.56 gearing might bring your 33 shift points back to stock, but you're truck is also a lot heavier than stock. It's almost like we're towing an extra 800lbs of steel around with us all the time.

I'd suggest 4.88 to deal with the larger tire size, added weight and stress, and to allow you or the next owner to switch to 35s if they choose. I doubt there will be much of a highway mpg change between 4.88 and 4.56.

The biggest drain on highway mpg I've found, other than wind resistant roof loads, is overly tall gearing forcing the truck to downshift to 3rd gear at the slightest grade or headwind. Gearing lower than OEM (4.88) would help with that.

 

[tabraha]

My experience: Best mileage = 4.3 R&P (stock '98-'02) + OEM tire size.

MPG went down with 4.3 + 33"; AT shift points always felt more inefficient/under powered.

MPG: 4.88 + 35" = 4.3 + 33" (adjusted miles used for mpg calcs) AT shift points with 4.88 & 35" felt clearly 2nd best to stock.

I lived and base drove at ~4,500'...arguably skews the above experience compared to sea level FWIW.

I tend to agree with this assessment even in the lowlands.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Also, keep in mind that your gears get weaker the bigger you go since the teeth get smaller. 5.38 is a lot weaker than 4.3

 

[Live to Ski]

KlausVanWinkle: still have a foot in the game (a good thing for us)?

I thought you had jumped camp to a J*&P. How is that working out?