should have listened to you guys

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O.k. so 5,000 miles ago i needed front brake pads. When inspecting the pads noticed that the p.o. had allowed the pads to wear to the point that the right front rotor had grooves in it. Decided to save a buck and got them turned instead of replaced as most on this board suggests replacement. Only $10 per to turn. While i was in there i serviced the Birfs, and put on new pads (toyota pads). Now only 5,000 miles later the front end is shaking under braking just as it did before the brake service. :slap:

I have also noticed now that the right front seems to pull when braking. what yall think, should i replace the rotors only, replace the pads and rotors at the same time, or replace the rotors and check the right front caliper? :cheers:
 

REDDER1

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i 'test drove' a 96 for a guy on this forum about a month ago. it had the EXACT same problem. Pulsating, vibration when braking and turning right..on the front PS side wheel.

the guy said he just had new pads put on them..but, it felt like the rotors were f'ed up.
 

cruiserdan

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putting used pads back on with new rotors is like taking a shower and putting your dirty clothes back on. :rolleyes:

The "grinding required" to fit 100 series pads is minimal and relates to nipping off the bit that overhangs the inner edge of the rotor. it's a :banana: job at the bench grinder.
 
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CAN YOU POST PICTURE ON HOW TO MAKE 10- PADS FIT I WANT BETTER BRAKES MINE SUCK AND HAVE HARD TIME STOPPING WHEN DRIVING IN TRAFFIC I DON'T KNOW WHAT BRAKES I HAVE NOW BUT NEED SOMETHING BETTER SOON I UPGRADE TO OME SUSPENSION AND WAS TOLD THAT IT WILL MAKE MY BRAKES WORSE UNLESS I GET A NEW BRACKET CAN I ADD 100 BRAKES WITHOUT NEW ROTERS TOO OR DO I NEED TO REPLACE EVERYTHING AND GO NEW HAS ANYONE PUT BIGGER BRAKES ONE LIKE 17 OR BIGGER I SAW MONSTER GARAGE WHERE THEY WENT TO BIGGER BRAKES FOR THE BIGGER TIRES I WANT TO RUN REAL BIG TIRES SOON SO DON'T WANT TO SPEND SAME MONEY AGAIN HOW HARD IS THIS :banana: JOB
 
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CAN I DO THIS WITHOUT REPLACING EVERYTHING OR DO I DO EVERYTHING NOW AND GET RAPED AT THE PARTS COUNTER EVEN THOUGH I PROMISE TO FEED SOME GUYS DOG CAN YOU POST PICTURE OR TELL ME EXACTLY WHAT TO DO JUNK BE HERE SOON SO I ASK HIM TO BUT HE PROBABLY CHANGE MIND ON BRAKES TOO AND HIS EMERGENCY BRAKE DOES NOT WORK
 
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Rick,
My 100 pads also went in unmodified. C-Dan relieved the lower portion of the pad where it curves and "fits" the curve in the rotor. If you have a bench grinder handy and you want the pads to perfect clear the hub portion then you can do this too. It's not requried though.

A lot of grinding on the pad is needed for the FJ80's (91-92) with 15" wheels. Landpimp has posted pics of various brake pads in the archives for those that are interested.
-B-
 

cruiserdan

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What year is your vehicle?

I will assume 93-97, if that is the case all you need to do is turn or replace the rotors so that you have a new surface for the pads to bed into and then relieve the inner edges of the 100 series pads (if you want to). Then put the pads in without the shims. When the pads wear down some you can re-install the shims if you like.


Um, is your cap-lock broken? ;)
 
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[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=9800;start=msg86329#msg86329 date=1073512915]
putting used pads back on with new rotors is like taking a shower and putting your dirty clothes back on. :rolleyes:
[/quote]

The PO and the dealer did precisely this on my rig before I bought it. I just couldn't believe that someone would install new rotors and not change the pads. :doh:

P.S. Having the caps stuck on is a lot like talking to an old person that has their hearing aid turned off. I think that was Jerry Seinfeld that did that bit. LOL....

Riley
 
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[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=9800;start=msg86346#msg86346 date=1073513992]
Um, is your cap-lock broken? ;)
[/quote]

He is "Big Man." Thus, he does not need to use punctuation or write in proper case.

I personally skip the posts that are an eyesore, and these definately qualify...
 

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