Shocks to reduce body roll?
- Thread starter aphil
- Start date
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I supported a trusted member/vendor and got mine from Land Cruiser Parts and Consulting. Decent price, excellent service.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Camelback Toyota online.
Beno
The problem setting up shocks (tunable) to control body/suspension roll on our IFS: Due to where the front shocks are mounted on the 100 its almost a 1:2 movement relationship with the wheel. It takes (relatively) considerable wheel movement to initiate shock shaft movement. Unless you use a position sensitive shock (i.e. "bypass" shock) instead of velocity sensitive shock...you'll typically get harsh ride quality over bridge abutments, etc. by tuning the shock's valve stack to be more resistive in an attempt to control body/suspension roll...
I'd like to run a larger diameter anti-sway bar...with disconnects. Solves the suspension roll issue on highway...without the negative performance of tuning a shock to do same.
This is one reason I am anxiously awaiting ARB to intro their BP-51 Internal Bypass shocks for the 100-Series; externally adjustable internal bypass...(no ETA per ARB USA though)
I'd like to run a larger diameter anti-sway bar...with disconnects. Solves the suspension roll issue on highway...without the negative performance of tuning a shock to do same.
This is one reason I am anxiously awaiting ARB to intro their BP-51 Internal Bypass shocks for the 100-Series; externally adjustable internal bypass...(no ETA per ARB USA though)
I would suggest you test ride a 100 with high end shocks, like Icons or fox etc there is almost no body roll its an amazing difference. They go on sale on black Friday usually for $800 and some change they are rebuild able and will last you a long time, by the time you buy 3 sets of cheap shocks you would of bought a pair of Icons.
So just replace with Icon shocks and not the spring? I'm on the same boat and about to pull the trigger on OEM replacements. To get maximum difference, should I replace the spring as well or just the shocks?
I replaced the shocks, springs and torsion bars. I was a non-believer of high end shocks and consider my self a thrifty person, haters call me cheap. I don't spend on anything unless I think I'm getting my money back two fold. That being said when you hold the icon shock and hold the stock shocks you will see where your money is going. The steel shaft alone is thicker than anything I've ever seen. The cylinder is 2" wide and solid machined aluminum, the shocks look like something that should be on the space shuttle. The stock shocks feel like soda cans compared to the icons. They are fluid filled and precision valved, they are specifically valved for the weight of the 100 series, I don't think stock shocks where ever tuned for the 100 but rather just throwing generic shocks in there.
The shocks alone will make a huge difference. Find a fellow mud member and take a spin on one equipped with such you will see what the hype is about.
Have you come up with anything for disconnects?
My approach still works, but it can be a big PITA if the antisway bar is loaded at all, and my bar retainer is ghetto.
My approach still works, but it can be a big PITA if the antisway bar is loaded at all, and my bar retainer is ghetto.
^ no...I got sidetracked with life and a dearth of off-road travel all things Utah 
I looked at my totota invoice from last year $26 but I just checked and they are 33ea now (47.02 list) - fronts. So Amazon not too bad.
Dan will probably disagree with me but longer front sway links will settle things down and make a nice balance between off-road and on road handling.
Naturally a disconnect will maximize the off-road capability but the longer links will set the sway bar more naturally to its stock tension while under way.
Naturally a disconnect will maximize the off-road capability but the longer links will set the sway bar more naturally to its stock tension while under way.
- Thread starter
- #33
So, I'm debating holding off on doing the OEM shocks and get a bit more used to the truck. I've looked at the fox 2.0 performance series shocks
and they are much more affordable than the icons. Look to be able $120 each.
So my question is, will an upgrade to these fox shocks make a substantial difference in highway handling and reducing body lean, while at the same time better handle light off road and farm trails?
and they are much more affordable than the icons. Look to be able $120 each.
So my question is, will an upgrade to these fox shocks make a substantial difference in highway handling and reducing body lean, while at the same time better handle light off road and farm trails?
bluecruiser
SILVER Star
Sounds like the OP would be fine with some OEM replacements. Not quite ready to go down the rabbit hole ($$$$) for the performance shocks that likely would net him nothing. Like someone earlier said, going from completely worn out shocks to new ones will be noticeable. Spend another $100 to replace a bunch of worn bushings and I bet your truck will feel much improved.
- Thread starter
- #35
So Are 2 more question and sorry for so many questions!
1. If the LC has 165k miles on the original shocks, but mechanic says only the front need to be replaced right now, should I just assume that the rear shocks performance is sub par and go ahead and replace all 4 with new OEM shocks and bushings if my goal is to improve highway handling?
2. Front right sway bar link pin need to be replaced. Mechanic says I can live with it as is, but I'm wondering if this will be effecting handling at all?
1. If the LC has 165k miles on the original shocks, but mechanic says only the front need to be replaced right now, should I just assume that the rear shocks performance is sub par and go ahead and replace all 4 with new OEM shocks and bushings if my goal is to improve highway handling?
2. Front right sway bar link pin need to be replaced. Mechanic says I can live with it as is, but I'm wondering if this will be effecting handling at all?
re_guderian
SILVER Star
talk to someone with the latest valving on the Fox 2.0's. The original ones were way softer than OEM, and scary on the highway.
yes, that's a good assumption, and bushings are included with new shocks (but not the metal washers).
get under your truck and look at this. If it "needs replacing" (the pin, not the bushings), then yeah, it'll have WAY more of an impact on body roll than any shock will. These are known to snap off occasionally on the 100 series, it's happened to me, and you DO get some major body roll. Post up a pic of both sides...
bluecruiser
SILVER Star
Parts list to refurb your Sway Bars If you have one banana wrenching skills you could do all of this stuff. Check out this thread. Has all the part numbers you need to tackle a suspension refresh.
